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"Like it stopped printing after the first half, then started over."
That sure sounds like a hot end problem. You may have gotten a plug of plastic between the end of the bowden tube and the back end of the nozzle. One of the symptoms is intermittent under-extrusion. You will certainly want to disassemble and clean it out and trim 5 or 6mm of the bowden tube. The cut must be very clean and as close to a 90° square cut as you can make it. The bowden tube is meant to make a seal at the back of the nozzle. I always clean mine out before a long print...just in case.
If you designed that model and you don't want to split it then I would suggest a removeable support to make it a "T". The screenshot shows a thin 1.6mm thick piece sticking out of the middle of the top edge, then a 1.6mm thick piece 100mm wide that touches that first piece to complete the T. Post-process would involve cutting the support off.
A problem with bed slinger printers is tall models with small footprints. The acceleration in the Y can break the print loose from the bed. Besides making custom supports, you can open the gcode file in a text editor and search for the line "LAYER:400" and add a line M201 Y250. That will limit the Y acceleration within the printer from layer 400 up. You can pick whatever layer you want to make the change at. You will also need to add M201 Y500 at the bottom of the gcode file and just before the line "End of Gcode". That will reset the Y accel to your default (per the definition file).
That low of an accel will keep the part from jerking around, but will slow down the print speed. To keep that low accel setting from having a big negative impact on time-to-print, place the model so the X axis is doing the long paths and the Y is doing the 5mm short paths.
Your part is sticking out to the left, then there is a little piece 1.6mm wide sticking out of what is the top edge, and then there is the 100mm wide 1.6 piece. I picked 1.6 because with a .4 nozzle it's two laps around.
In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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GregValiant 980
"Like it stopped printing after the first half, then started over."
That sure sounds like a hot end problem. You may have gotten a plug of plastic between the end of the bowden tube and the back end of the nozzle. One of the symptoms is intermittent under-extrusion. You will certainly want to disassemble and clean it out and trim 5 or 6mm of the bowden tube. The cut must be very clean and as close to a 90° square cut as you can make it. The bowden tube is meant to make a seal at the back of the nozzle. I always clean mine out before a long print...just in case.
If you designed that model and you don't want to split it then I would suggest a removeable support to make it a "T". The screenshot shows a thin 1.6mm thick piece sticking out of the middle of the top edge, then a 1.6mm thick piece 100mm wide that touches that first piece to complete the T. Post-process would involve cutting the support off.
A problem with bed slinger printers is tall models with small footprints. The acceleration in the Y can break the print loose from the bed. Besides making custom supports, you can open the gcode file in a text editor and search for the line "LAYER:400" and add a line M201 Y250. That will limit the Y acceleration within the printer from layer 400 up. You can pick whatever layer you want to make the change at. You will also need to add M201 Y500 at the bottom of the gcode file and just before the line "End of Gcode". That will reset the Y accel to your default (per the definition file).
That low of an accel will keep the part from jerking around, but will slow down the print speed. To keep that low accel setting from having a big negative impact on time-to-print, place the model so the X axis is doing the long paths and the Y is doing the 5mm short paths.
Your part is sticking out to the left, then there is a little piece 1.6mm wide sticking out of what is the top edge, and then there is the 100mm wide 1.6 piece. I picked 1.6 because with a .4 nozzle it's two laps around.
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