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Tall Thin Print with Large Holes


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Posted · Tall Thin Print with Large Holes

I have tried to print a somewhat large gauge cluster bezel for my car.  It is approximately 13.25" wide, 6" tall, and 3/16" wide.  When I tried printing it with the tallest point on the z-axis, it started warping about the 55% mark.  I then tried printing the tallest side on the x-axis.  It got half way through printing, and I don't know what it did.  But it was seriously messed up.  Like it stopped printing after the first half, then started over.


Can someone help me figure out a way to where I don't have to do multiple prints?  I'm using a Longer LK5 Pro, which is more than tall enough to handle the 13.25".  Being brand new to 3d printing, I just don't have the knowledge to get the settings correct in Cura.


Longer LK5 Pro

210 degree nozzle temp

70 degree bed temp

50 mm/s speed

Brilliant Stantia(3).stl

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    Posted · Tall Thin Print with Large Holes

    "Like it stopped printing after the first half, then started over."

    That sure sounds like a hot end problem.  You may have gotten a plug of plastic between the end of the bowden tube and the back end of the nozzle.  One of the symptoms is intermittent under-extrusion.  You will certainly want to disassemble and clean it out and trim 5 or 6mm of the bowden tube.  The cut must be very clean and as close to a 90° square cut as you can make it.  The bowden tube is meant to make a seal at the back of the nozzle.  I always clean mine out before a long print...just in case.


    If you designed that model and you don't want to split it then I would suggest a removeable support to make it a "T".  The screenshot shows a thin 1.6mm thick piece sticking out of the middle of the top edge, then a 1.6mm thick piece 100mm wide that touches that first piece to complete the T.  Post-process would involve cutting the support off.


    A problem with bed slinger printers is tall models with small footprints.  The acceleration in the Y can break the print loose from the bed.  Besides making custom supports, you can open the gcode file in a text editor and search for the line "LAYER:400" and add a line M201 Y250.  That will limit the Y acceleration within the printer from layer 400 up.  You can pick whatever layer you want to make the change at.  You will also need to add M201 Y500 at the bottom of the gcode file and just before the line "End of Gcode".  That will reset the Y accel to your default (per the definition file).

    That low of an accel will keep the part from jerking around, but will slow down the print speed.  To keep that low accel setting from having a big negative impact on time-to-print, place the model so the X axis is doing the long paths and the Y is doing the 5mm short paths.



    Your part is sticking out to the left, then there is a little piece 1.6mm wide sticking out of what is the top edge, and then there is the 100mm wide 1.6 piece.  I picked 1.6 because with a .4 nozzle it's two laps around.



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