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The usual problem is that the Z switch is adjusted to where the top of the old build surface was. You can move the Z switch up 3mm or you can build a shim 3mm thick so the gantry trips the switch at near the height of the new glass bed.
Here is my shim. It slips over that wheel bolt. When I want to go back to the magnetic bed I just take the shim off.
For the Auto-Home command "G28" there isn't really isn't any other option. The command sends the XYZ to their respective end stop switches. If your Z switch is too low, and the nozzle is over the bed after homing the X and Y then the Z will definitely crash the nozzle into the bed.
If you Auto-Home and the nozzle doesn't crash the bed then yes, there are gcode commands you can use. A G92 Z-3.0 right after G28 would tell the printer that the current Z location is -3.0. If the next line is G1 Z0 then the Z will move up to the level of the glass bed.
You could also adjust your Home Offsets to tell the printer where "0" is.
What you would be doing is creating a situation where the nozzle could crash hard into the glass bed. My suggestion is to move the switch up or if you can't do that for some reason then make something that will cause the switch to be tripped during Auto-Home. Then you can manually adjust the bed height to the new Auto-Home Z=0 location.
Edited by GregValiant
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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GregValiant 1,251
The usual problem is that the Z switch is adjusted to where the top of the old build surface was. You can move the Z switch up 3mm or you can build a shim 3mm thick so the gantry trips the switch at near the height of the new glass bed.
Here is my shim. It slips over that wheel bolt. When I want to go back to the magnetic bed I just take the shim off.
For the Auto-Home command "G28" there isn't really isn't any other option. The command sends the XYZ to their respective end stop switches. If your Z switch is too low, and the nozzle is over the bed after homing the X and Y then the Z will definitely crash the nozzle into the bed.
If you Auto-Home and the nozzle doesn't crash the bed then yes, there are gcode commands you can use. A G92 Z-3.0 right after G28 would tell the printer that the current Z location is -3.0. If the next line is G1 Z0 then the Z will move up to the level of the glass bed.
You could also adjust your Home Offsets to tell the printer where "0" is.
What you would be doing is creating a situation where the nozzle could crash hard into the glass bed. My suggestion is to move the switch up or if you can't do that for some reason then make something that will cause the switch to be tripped during Auto-Home. Then you can manually adjust the bed height to the new Auto-Home Z=0 location.
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