Parts missing after slicing in Ultimaker Cura 4.12.1

[Bill_L 0]

Made in FreeCAD (using FreeCAD file or stl)

 

 

After slicing, The tines are missing.

 

 

But slicing in Cura 15.04.3

 

 

The tines are there.

 

This has happened with other stl's!

 

Help!!!!!

 

Bill

Learning/Playing/Enjoying 3 months

[GregValiant 980]

The ability to slice a feature is tied to the width of the feature and is controlled by the line width you set in Cura (or any other slicer).  The line width in turn is closely tied to the nozzle diameter.  Cura settings like "Horizontal Expansion" and "Print Thin walls" also have an effect.  The new settings "Outer Wall Inset", and "Split Middle Line Threshold" can have an effect as well.

The tines of a comb present a special problem.  They really need two passes to complete so the nozzle goes up and comes back on the same tine.  If it was one pass then the nozzle would need to jump to the next tine.  That usually results in stringing.  The new  Cura 5.0 is really good at this.  It uses variable line width and can put finer lines into a slice.  That allows narrower features to slice.

You didn't mention your nozzle size.  You can push a .4 nozzle down to around .35 line width (that would work well with tines that are .70 wide).  Give that a try and slice the comb again.  If it still doesn't slice the tines then as an experiment select a smaller nozzle size in Cura and check the preview.

Another thing that can keep areas from slicing is if they are not watertight.  When there are gaps between two adjacent surfaces then Cura becomes confused about what is "inside" and what is "outside" and won't slice.

[Bill_L 0]

I'll go through the settings.

I have to start writing down All of the Changes I Make!  🤪🤪🤪

 

Thank you

[GregValiant 980]

You can use the "File | Save Project" command and the 3mf file will have the model, your printer, and all your settings, support blockers, etc.  You can open it back up in Cura and everything shows up just as it was.

[Bill_L 0]

12 hours ago, GregValiant said:

You can use the "File | Save Project" command and the 3mf file will have the model, your printer, and all your settings, support blockers, etc.  You can open it back up in Cura and everything shows up just as it was.

Mornin 

 

I started looking at the settings and your suggestions, then I thought Why Not just reinstall... Too tired 

to do that yesterday!!!

This morning as I was waking up Way Too Early to get Up I thought ...Why not just try

another Profile (I've been using 1 profile I made called Smooth top(I found on YouTube)along with half the print time (line width .65 instead of .4) and others), 1 that I hadn't changed

....... And Now it's Good.

 

Thank You 😁😁😁 👍 👍 👍

[GregValiant 980]

I've been seeing a lot of people asking for support and they are pushing their line width up to 0.8 with a .4 nozzle.  That is stressful from the extruder down through the hot end.  If you print really slow then yes, the printer can keep up.  At normal print speeds increasing the flow rate through the hot end by 100% is not a good idea.  You also lose resolution of the part.

[Bill_L 0]

20 hours ago, GregValiant said:

I've been seeing a lot of people asking for support and they are pushing their line width up to 0.8 with a .4 nozzle.  That is stressful from the extruder down through the hot end.  If you print really slow then yes, the printer can keep up.  At normal print speeds increasing the flow rate through the hot end by 100% is not a good idea.  You also lose resolution of the part.

I forgot to say the nozzle is .4.

I haven't looked close enough to see a difference between .4 and .65 line width, But then I really can't see

the difference with a 4K tv either lol

 

The only time I hear the extruder complaining is on the 1st layer on Some prints, even right after doing a bed

level check, whether line width is .4 or .65.

 

Edited May 16, 2022 by Bill_L

[GregValiant 980]

Skipping steps on the first layer is because the nozzle is too close to the bed.  That goes directly to the leveling procedure whether it's automatic, or manual.  If you are Auto-Leveling then maybe you can tweak your Z-offset.  If you are leveling manually there are tricks you can do to help with consistency.  Most folks just get better with practice and the consistency comes of it's own accord.

[Bill_L 0]

On 5/16/2022 at 9:32 AM, GregValiant said:

Skipping steps on the first layer is because the nozzle is too close to the bed.  That goes directly to the leveling procedure whether it's automatic, or manual.  If you are Auto-Leveling then maybe you can tweak your Z-offset.  If you are leveling manually there are tricks you can do to help with consistency.  Most folks just get better with practice and the consistency comes of it's own accord.

Manual only.

Once I found an stl (squares from CHEP, I use that and adjust during), and that usually fixes it, the only time I do paper 

1st is if I do something to the bed or extruder.

[GregValiant 980]

The #1 thing I hated about 3d printing was the damn knob on the printer.  What a PITA to use.  Since the knob is just sending gcode commands to itself I wrote an app to do all the knob functions from a PC via the USB.  It's all good now.  On the Movement screen I hit a button that says "Left Front" and there it goes.  I just have to chase the head with my trusty piece of parchment paper and wait for the Z to set down on it.  It takes about 20 seconds to hit the 4 corners and touch up the leveling.

 

One thing I noticed about leveling though...I would auto-home, then level, and when the print started there would be the G28 command in the StartUp Gcode.  All three axes would go to the switches.  Often, re-homing the Z after leveling would result in the Z=0 being at a different point in space (cheap switch repeatability issue) and my nice level build surface would be too low or too high.

So now the StartUp Gcode has G28 X Y and when the print starts the Z is at the same "0" point it was during leveling.  It's much more consistent now.