Does a single wall force spiral mode?

[Xeddog 6]

I am working through some calibrations for my CR-10S and one of them is printing a 20mm single wall cube (no top, bottom, or infill) to calibrate flow.   Along with calibrations, I am trying to determine the printers top print speed that still yields good prints so I had the print speed set to 100mm/s after the first layer.  I noticed while the cube was printing that the speed seemed to remain very slow, and looked like it kept the 30mm/s first layer speed for the entire 20mm cube height.  My first thought was that I had Spiralize Outer Contour checked, but it was not.  So does printing a single wall model cause Cura to invoke vase mode?

Currently running 5.2.2, but I think I have noticed this before on some older versions.

 

Wayne

[Xeddog 6]

Sheez.  Already have an update.


I just happened to watch this one start printing.  The first layer printed at the 30mm/s as defined in my Cura settings.  As the second layer started, I heard the fans come on, and the print speed DECREASED even further.  Like maybe 10mm/s. 

[GregValiant 980]

In regards to the speed, you are probably bumping up against the "Minimum Layer Time" which has a default of 10 seconds.  You can set it lower but the print may not have a chance to cool properly before the nozzle comes back around.  A related setting is Minimum Speed.  The settings are in the Cooling section.

 

Unless you intend to print a lot of models that have single walls and need the walls to be some exact thickness, don't calibrate using a single wall model.  Just calibrate the E-steps and you are done.

The best way to tell if you have the flow dialed in is to use a decent magnifying glass and check a top skin.

[Xeddog 6]

ooooooohh yeeeaaaah.   Minimum layer time.  I had forgotten about that one.

About flow, I've been printing for about 5-6 years and I have NEVER heard of any other technique besides cubes, either single or sometimes double wall, to calibrate flow.  The funny thing is, the process ends with something like "after completing the calibration, verify with an actual print and adjust accordingly."   Why not just adjust accordingly to start with?  This is the first time I have used the cubes in quite a while as I have essentially been doing the "to start with" method anyway. 

Thanks for the info.  Case closed.

 

Wayne

 

 

[GregValiant 980]

"Why not just adjust accordingly to start with?"

That's what I'm saying too.  Your eyeballs are the best to determine how the printer is doing with your settings.  A magnifying glass is fine.  I picked up a microscope for cheap at a garage sale.  It's always been great for removing splinters, but it's real good at seeing how layers went down, and if there are gaps or ridges between the extrusions of a skin.