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embossed printing

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Posted · embossed printing

I'm having a pickle of a time.


I have cap to a bottle with embossed marking. I can't seem to get a print done (0.2 mm nozzle, 0.08 resolution, Creality 3 pro) where the support doesn't obscure the print.

It's very frustrating.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to print a cap with embossed labels?

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    • 2 weeks later...
    Posted · embossed printing

    I did not get notified of this post until today. Let me get something by the weekend. I work 60/WK, so please be patient.

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    Posted · embossed printing

    I have attached the files.

    I'm still learning, so I will make mistakes. It's the supports and adhesions that are messing this up. I just don't have the right setting.



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    • Solution
    Posted (edited) · embossed printing

    I have the same printer and so we're going to start at the beginning.

    Get out a carpenter tri-square and a good straightedge (a steel ruler will work).

    Start on the frame of the printer.  You want to check that each axis is exactly square to each of the other axis.  If (for example) the bed is running at an angle to the X-beam, your parts will be skewed when viewed from the top.  You may have to loosen some screws and rotate some extrusions to get them just right.

    Make sure the X beam is exactly square to the Z uprights.  If it isn't then leveling is near impossible.

    The Z uprights must be exactly parallel when viewed from the front, and from the side.  In addition, their front faces must be in the same plane.  If the Z parts are off then you will get Z binding and it will have an effect on the prints as they get taller.

    Once you have the frame square and parallel take the cover off the hot end.  Is the hot end tight?  Is it exactly straight up and down?

    Pull the bowden tube out of the hot end.  Take a close look at the bottom 1/4" (6mm) of the tube.  That portion can get chewed up by the little blades in the keeper fitting.  You can trim it back by 6mm and re-install it.  The bowden tube is a consumable part for just that reason.  The bowden needs to make a seal where it hits the back end of the nozzle so the cut you make in the bowden tube must be nice and square.  With the hot heated to about 175, back the nozzle out by 1/4 turn.  Re-install the bowden tube and make sure it is tight against the nozzle.  re-tighten the nozzle that last bit.  That will put a bit of pressure against the bowden tube.

    Have you calibrated the E-steps?  When Cura (any slicer) calls for filament then the right amount of filament needs to be pushed.  There are on-line videos of how to do this.  CHEP on YouTube is very Creality centric and has some good information on the Ender series.

    The belts should "twang like the strings of a bass guitar".  Make sure they are adjusted.

    On each trolley, there is one roller that has a hex shape on the axle part.  When you loosen the locking nut, you can rotate that hex shape to move the roller closer or further from the slot it rides in.  You should just be able to rotate any wheel with two fingers.


    I mention all that because your brims are under-extruded.  That can be because the E-steps are off, or because the leveling is off.  If the Z gap is too high at the start of a print, then not enough filament is being delivered to fill that "too high" gap.  So check your Z-offset as it may need to be dialed in better.


    When I opened the project file I got the warning that "the model is not watertight and may not print correctly".  Zooming in, there is this spot that Cura has colored in a polka dot pattern.  The error is actually on the other side and is the "i".  The needs to be addressed or the 'i' won't print or will print poorly.




    Finally...raised letters are tougher.  First, you have to print them right-side up.  On these caps it means that support will be required for the undersides.  You also have to deal with the line width.  Your letters are 0.5 wide and your line width is 0.4 so Cura must either under-extrude the letters to fit two extrusions side-by-side, or over-extrude a single extrusion.  It would be better if the letters were 0.8 wide for your 0.4 nozzle.  The fact that the raised letters are 0.31 high is a problem as well.  Cura won't adjust for that extra bit and so the layers will be 0.20 high.

    When the model has extensive supports when printed from one direction as opposed to the other I usually opt for the relieved letters like your "Text" so I can print the flat side on the bed and eliminate the need for support.  But raised letters look better I think.

    That should keep you busy this evening.  Good Luck.





    Edited by GregValiant
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    Posted · embossed printing

    I'll mark this as the answer - but in all honesty, I will not be able to make this all happen until next week.

    These are for my daughter's med bottles, something that won't wear off.

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