Sorry, due to circumstances I cannot currently look into it. Perhaps @GregValiant has some sage advice; he is quite knowledgeable about Enders too.
Can you please help me solve this issue in my 3D Prints by helping me tweak Cura Settings
GregValiant 1,455
Good Morning.
I looked at the project and the model. The model has some minor errors and need to be repaired. I made the repairs but the project absolutely will not slice for me in 5.4beta1. This isn't the first time that has happened on a good model.
The error "Backend exited abnormally with return code 3221225477!" keeps coming up. My understanding is that is a memory error.
Using 5.3.1 I didn't have any trouble.
Tracking the "Y" movements at around Layer:270 there is no "hiccup" in the gcode. The inner-wall toolpath is a straight shot from Y189 to Y30.6. There is no "stop in the middle and go around something".
It's possible that your gcode was generated different than mine. If you still have it, post that gcode file here. I can read it into Auto-Cad and take Cura completely out of the loop.
More likely - it's possible you have a string or something stuck in the grooves of the "Y" Beam below the build surface. Try cleaning the grooves and the wheels with a bit of IPA on a rag or paper towel. If a trolley wheel hits something as it moves back and forth then you will get defects like that. Because the defect appears to be in the front vertical wall as well as in the rear vertical wall is an indicator that this is the case. If the booger was on the wheel itself then the defect would be repeating and although the wheel bearings are not sealed and "stuff" can get into them, I don't think that's the case here. Adjusting the wheel tension (using the eccentric nuts) can't hurt. You should just be able to turn any trolley wheel with your fingers.
Post the gcode file if you can, but this has the look of a mechanical problem. It's too regular and there is nothing in the model geometry to make Cura do that.
Here is a look down the wall at Layer 272. It's straight and the gcode bears this out.
Edited by GregValiant
My Ender 3S1 has been doing that weird line on that specific print since I got it! My retraction settings are tuned in, and I'm using Gyroid infill with 30% infill. I attached pictures for another recent print I have done with the same problem! The picture shows the two opposite sides, and the line seems to go out of the print on one side and back into the print on the other. I cleaned what you suggested, and it slightly got better but the problem still persists. I also attached the GCODE, slicing it on Cura it also shows a straight line not the weird squiggle that shows in the final print.
- Solution
GregValiant 1,455
I read the gcode file into AutoCad. You can see in the attached image that the walls are straight. There aren't any wiggles near the "L" (that is on the front).
This doesn't have anything to do with the infill pattern, density, temperature, none of that. It's the printer.
You need to go over the printer with a fine tooth comb. Calibrating the frame of my Ender 3 Pro caused me to come up with this saying
"Just because parts of it came assembled doesn't mean they were assembled correctly."
So go over it. Use a straight edge ruler and a carpenter's square and make sure things are parallel and square. Go over the trolley wheels and the "V" slots again. I do a full R&R on mine once a month. It works hard and needs the maintenance.
Edited by GregValiantHad a similar problem. Found the power cord to the table heater would hang up on the motor driving the table when the table was near the front - when printing near the back of the table. Once it hung up seriously enough to skip location - the model printed all subsequent layers correctly but offset about a centimeter. Fixed by using some tape (not duct tape but should have been) to hold the cord away from the motor.
strange things to look for.
I’ll try these things out thank you so much Greg the Valiant for your time!
GregValiant 1,455
This isn't a great photo, but notice the hook below the filament spool and how the rubber band supports the hot end wiring harness. The hook on the filament guide has a triple-length rubber band and holds up the extruder motor harness.
I fish and so I had some fishing rod guides laying around as spares. After the filament wore through the guide ring of my first PLA filament guide I took the ceramic ring out of a fishing rod guide, cut a sector out, and glued it into the ring of the filament guide. It won't be wearing out anytime soon.
When you bling a printer you can accomplish two things. First, you learn how to print stuff. Second, you can occasionally print something useful. In the background of the photo above you can see just see the air baffle for the power supply fan. This is one of those things I designed that isn't so useful. I like it.
Edited by GregValiant
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ahoeben 2,026
In cases such as this, it really helps to post a link to a project file. A project file (File -> Save project...) gives us both your model and all the settings you currently use. That way we can help you more optimally.
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Foxtrix 1
Got it thank you!
Issue!~.3mf
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