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I've assume that you'll know that the temperature is selected by the firmware (when a given type of filament are selected), or by directly adjusting the bed temp on the printer during printing.
You may also test this directly by using the advanced menu found under the maintenance menu.
If you can see the "heat bed" temperature, -should be close to the nozzle temperature then we may consider the temp sensing ok.
So, if this is true we may suggest the heating of the bed "circuit" is to blame.
What happen if you try to rice the temperature? Did you get any warning?
Problems often found here is the contact block, either of the heat bed, or the contact block at the main PCB.
The contact blocks, may look burnt (brownish), or simply have an open line on the heat bed. This latter happen due to expansion/retraction when the bed is heated/cooled due to use over times.
As you now have the diagram, you'll sure find the circuit block. etc.
Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Torgeir 248
@mowijo
Hi Morten
I've assume that you'll know that the temperature is selected by the firmware (when a given type of filament are selected), or by directly adjusting the bed temp on the printer during printing.
You may also test this directly by using the advanced menu found under the maintenance menu.
If you can see the "heat bed" temperature, -should be close to the nozzle temperature then we may consider the temp sensing ok.
So, if this is true we may suggest the heating of the bed "circuit" is to blame.
What happen if you try to rice the temperature? Did you get any warning?
Problems often found here is the contact block, either of the heat bed, or the contact block at the main PCB.
The contact blocks, may look burnt (brownish), or simply have an open line on the heat bed. This latter happen due to expansion/retraction when the bed is heated/cooled due to use over times.
As you now have the diagram, you'll sure find the circuit block. etc.
Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
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