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· Problem with second third fourth layer...
The first layer usually prints with different settings - often taller and wider, with higher flow.
With transparent materials, you generally want to use the thickest layers and widest lines possible, since the most visible parts are the seams where two parts meet.
If your parts don't need to be strong, you can change Top / Bottom > Top/Bottom Line Directions to a (single) number like 0, 90, or 45 depending on the orientation of your print. Look in the preview, you want the angle which will give you the longest lines. Just please note that as I said, this will compromise strength because it's basically only reinforcing one direction instead of two (0,90) or four (45, 135).
If the retraction settings you mentioned are the ones you generally use for any PLA, it's worth testing this filament specifically. Things like this, or "silk", can be more flexible, stretchy, or just plain harder to grab as normal PLA.
If the nozzle is rubbing against higher layers, it sounds like your filament is expanding as it dries. You'll probably have to make all settings visible for this one, but see if you can go to Material > Vertical Scaling Shrinkage Compensation and test turning it down a tiny bit (like 0.1% at a time, or more if that makes barely any difference - it's not something I've ever had to play with).
Finally, I might not understand all the laws of optics (the circle of confusion just confuses me) but it's a fact of life that unless your material is 100% transparent - and this isn't - every time you add more, the whole thing becomes more opaque. You're never going to get a really transparent result from FDM printing. About the best you can do is want to have something thin and not detailed, break out a 1mm nozzle, hope your hot end goes hot enough and lay down the thickest single layer you can.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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Slashee_the_Cow 272
The first layer usually prints with different settings - often taller and wider, with higher flow.
With transparent materials, you generally want to use the thickest layers and widest lines possible, since the most visible parts are the seams where two parts meet.
If your parts don't need to be strong, you can change Top / Bottom > Top/Bottom Line Directions to a (single) number like 0, 90, or 45 depending on the orientation of your print. Look in the preview, you want the angle which will give you the longest lines. Just please note that as I said, this will compromise strength because it's basically only reinforcing one direction instead of two (0,90) or four (45, 135).
If the retraction settings you mentioned are the ones you generally use for any PLA, it's worth testing this filament specifically. Things like this, or "silk", can be more flexible, stretchy, or just plain harder to grab as normal PLA.
If the nozzle is rubbing against higher layers, it sounds like your filament is expanding as it dries. You'll probably have to make all settings visible for this one, but see if you can go to Material > Vertical Scaling Shrinkage Compensation and test turning it down a tiny bit (like 0.1% at a time, or more if that makes barely any difference - it's not something I've ever had to play with).
Finally, I might not understand all the laws of optics (the circle of confusion just confuses me) but it's a fact of life that unless your material is 100% transparent - and this isn't - every time you add more, the whole thing becomes more opaque. You're never going to get a really transparent result from FDM printing. About the best you can do is want to have something thin and not detailed, break out a 1mm nozzle, hope your hot end goes hot enough and lay down the thickest single layer you can.
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