UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
Posted
· Problem with second third fourth layer...
The first layer usually prints with different settings - often taller and wider, with higher flow.
With transparent materials, you generally want to use the thickest layers and widest lines possible, since the most visible parts are the seams where two parts meet.
If your parts don't need to be strong, you can change Top / Bottom > Top/Bottom Line Directions to a (single) number like 0, 90, or 45 depending on the orientation of your print. Look in the preview, you want the angle which will give you the longest lines. Just please note that as I said, this will compromise strength because it's basically only reinforcing one direction instead of two (0,90) or four (45, 135).
If the retraction settings you mentioned are the ones you generally use for any PLA, it's worth testing this filament specifically. Things like this, or "silk", can be more flexible, stretchy, or just plain harder to grab as normal PLA.
If the nozzle is rubbing against higher layers, it sounds like your filament is expanding as it dries. You'll probably have to make all settings visible for this one, but see if you can go to Material > Vertical Scaling Shrinkage Compensation and test turning it down a tiny bit (like 0.1% at a time, or more if that makes barely any difference - it's not something I've ever had to play with).
Finally, I might not understand all the laws of optics (the circle of confusion just confuses me) but it's a fact of life that unless your material is 100% transparent - and this isn't - every time you add more, the whole thing becomes more opaque. You're never going to get a really transparent result from FDM printing. About the best you can do is want to have something thin and not detailed, break out a 1mm nozzle, hope your hot end goes hot enough and lay down the thickest single layer you can.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Here comes Cura 5.9 and in this stable release we have lots of material and printer profiles for UltiMaker printers, including the newly released Sketch Sprint. Additionally, scarf seams have been introduced alongside even more print settings and improvements. Check out the rest of this article to find out the details on all of that and more
We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
Recommended Posts
Slashee_the_Cow 541
The first layer usually prints with different settings - often taller and wider, with higher flow.
With transparent materials, you generally want to use the thickest layers and widest lines possible, since the most visible parts are the seams where two parts meet.
If your parts don't need to be strong, you can change Top / Bottom > Top/Bottom Line Directions to a (single) number like 0, 90, or 45 depending on the orientation of your print. Look in the preview, you want the angle which will give you the longest lines. Just please note that as I said, this will compromise strength because it's basically only reinforcing one direction instead of two (0,90) or four (45, 135).
If the retraction settings you mentioned are the ones you generally use for any PLA, it's worth testing this filament specifically. Things like this, or "silk", can be more flexible, stretchy, or just plain harder to grab as normal PLA.
If the nozzle is rubbing against higher layers, it sounds like your filament is expanding as it dries. You'll probably have to make all settings visible for this one, but see if you can go to Material > Vertical Scaling Shrinkage Compensation and test turning it down a tiny bit (like 0.1% at a time, or more if that makes barely any difference - it's not something I've ever had to play with).
Finally, I might not understand all the laws of optics (the circle of confusion just confuses me) but it's a fact of life that unless your material is 100% transparent - and this isn't - every time you add more, the whole thing becomes more opaque. You're never going to get a really transparent result from FDM printing. About the best you can do is want to have something thin and not detailed, break out a 1mm nozzle, hope your hot end goes hot enough and lay down the thickest single layer you can.
Link to post
Share on other sites