Jump to content

Question about weird printing screwups.


Recommended Posts

Posted · Question about weird printing screwups.

Hey all,

 

I have a Creality Ender 3 s1 pro. 

 

Most times it prints very nicely, but I've been having trouble with this console lid I created. 

 

Most of the settings are default. I am using ABS and running at 230/110 inside an enclosure. I am using 0% cooling and the bed is level.

 

I keep getting little bits that didn't adhere floating around the print and there's this part at one end of the print that looks like an X where it's flaring up, for lack of a better description.  After the print is finished, the X looks like a mountain range lol.

 

Sorry I'm not used to writing in a printer forum and don't know how to describe this stuff very well.  

 

Bare with me! Please let me know if any more information would be helpful as far as settings are concerned.

 

See pics.

 

Any advice would be very much appreciated!

20240211_153724.jpg

20240211_153439.jpg

20240211_153436.jpg

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Question about weird printing screwups.

    Printing with ABS is a pain - it warps if you breathe on it at the wrong temperature, it has the adhesive qualities of a four week old sticky note which has been moved ten times a day, and it's a good thing you have it in an enclosure because the fumes are literally poisonous. People say "it's stronger than PLA" but it isn't really, just less brittle. My point is: only use it if you have to. It's great stuff when it's being poured into prefabricated moulds en masse (Lego bricks are made out of a special blend of it! As are a lot of plastic things) but it's really annoying to work with for printing.

     

    Aaaaanyway, it's been a while since I've printed ABS, but I did it at about 250 with the bed at 100. Most spools of filament will have the recommended settings printed somewhere on them. Definitely make sure you're not going too fast (I did about 40mm/s). As for your X, other than the possibility of Elon Musk trying to advertise the Twitter name change via your printer, it's hard to guess just based on pictures.

     

    If you could post the Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) as well as the gcode file for the one you already did, that gives us a lot more to try and go by.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Question about weird printing screwups.

    Lol thanks for your response. You actually got a laugh outta me!

     

    I totally agree, ABS is a huge pain. So I'm using the Creality slicer. Lemme see if I can get something for you to look at.

     

    Standby!

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Question about weird printing screwups.
    1 hour ago, Arstinince said:

    I totally agree, ABS is a huge pain. So I'm using the Creality slicer. Lemme see if I can get something for you to look at.

    I hope they've improved it since I got my Ender-3 V2 Neo (first Creality printer). 3 out of 3 initial test prints failed, switched to the greener pastures of Cura, now when prints fail it's generally because of my own stupidity.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Question about weird printing screwups.

    I got it to work, but I changed two things and I'm not sure which actually fixed it lol. 

     

    So for one, I used a brushable 3d print glue and I used a different slicer with the same settings and it came out almost perfect.

     

    There were some slight imperfections on the top layer, but i think I could've made that better by adjusting the nozzle temp a little lower.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Question about weird printing screwups.
    11 hours ago, Arstinince said:

    There were some slight imperfections on the top layer, but i think I could've made that better by adjusting the nozzle temp a little lower.

    Worth trying (remember: small scale testing is your friend!) but it's also worth remembering that ABS has the adhesive properties of a piece of chewing gum which has been sitting in the sun all day on top of one of the garbage islands in the pacific ocean for ten years so the top layer doesn't always fully stick (especially where there's travel moves) because there's nothing holding it down. Although I've mostly seen this occur as warping upwards at the corners (even after I've left it in the tent for an hour after printing so it doesn't suffer the shock of going straight from hot stuffy tent to slightly less hot but probably more stuffy Australian summer).

     

    Unless you're already running at the maximum recommended temperature (and maybe even if you are, a little bit generally doesn't hurt), I'd try increasing the temperature rather than decreasing it. Hotter plastic = gooier plastic = more adhesion.

     

    Also it's worth trying printing the top slower than the rest of the model because slower movement = more time next to heat source (nozzle) = sets quicker.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.7 stable released
        Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more. 
         
          • Like
        • 20 replies
      • S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
        (Sorry, was out of office when this released)

        This update is for...
        All UltiMaker S series  
        New features
         
        Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
        • 0 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...