How do I apply adjustments from califlower calculator in Cura for material?

[linear-eagle 0]

I've run the Vector 3D califlower on my Ultimaker S5 in PLA in both 100mm and 150mm sizes using the 0.15mm Engineering profile and in a few places I've gotten a consistent deviation of a few tenths of a percent that I'd like to adjust for in Cura 5.6 (see attached screenshot of the results from the calculator).

 

Which Cura settings do I need to adjust to account for these deviations? How can I do this in a way that won't require scaling every model I add and ideally will be applied per-material as different materials will of course require different adjustments?

 

Based on previous prints I've already made some improvements on the S5 itself by tightening the short belts and realigning the axles, but at this point I'd like to try accounting for the remaining deviations in software and seeing how that works.

Edited April 11, 2024 by linear-eagle

[Slashee_the_Cow 621]

I've never heard of this calculator and have no idea what it does, but Cura settings I do know. For what it's worth, the 0.15mm part of the profile is just the layer height, not the accuracy of each level. Check the following settings:

• Mesh Fixes > Maximum Resolution. Its purpose is to prevent a lesser printer getting overwhelmed by a bunch of tiny movement instructions, but a decent printer like an S5 shouldn't have a problem. I usually have it set to 0.1mm, but you could probably go down to 0.01mm.
• Mesh Fixes > Maximum Deviation. This is how far the print path can deviate from the model (to handle the maximum resolution). On my profiles the default is 0.025mm, but the minimum seems to be 0.001mm, although Cura gives me a warning if I set it below 0.010mm.
• Speed > Print Speed. Shouldn't matter on a high quality printer like the S5, but printing slower always reduces the chances a motor will slip a step or something. There is such a thing as too slow, but if you set Print Speed to 60mm/s then it'll do infill at that speed and everything else at half that. PLA at 30mm/s should be fine.
• Speed > Enable Jerk Control. Turn this on. We're going to play with the jerk. Because a printer can't just stop at a corner then head off in the next direction (it'll take so long there'll be a blob in the corner) the jerk is how much the printer is allowed to change speed instantly.
• Speed > Print Jerk. If you're going for accuracy, I'd probably go for 4mm/s (or if you're paranoid, 2mm/s). Normally I have it set to 8mm/s (or 4mm/s for TPU, but that's a different beast entirely). In theory it shouldn't make a difference (either way the printer will get to a corner and move in the next direction) but sometimes if the filament hasn't fully set it can be dragged along in the next direction by the nozzle, giving you a small diagonal part instead of a corner.
• Cooling > Fan Speed. Should be 100%, although the initial speed should be 0% (helps adhere to the print bed) and set to reach full speed by layer 3. Other people have different preferred values, but this is just a general guideline here. Because PLA is very stable and doesn't warp or anything, you want it to set as quickly as possible.
• Walls > Minimum Wall Line Width. This is generally determined by your nozzle (print core), the guideline is a minimum of 60% of your nozzle size, so 0.24mm for a 0.4mm nozzle. Using a smaller nozzle will give you more accurate prints just because of reasons like this.
• Walls > Minimum Feature Size. Doesn't look like it'd be relevant here, but if you're trying to print small details lowering this means it'll try and print smaller details.

That's about all I can think of right now. Hope this helps!