On a small calibration cube this is often caused by the middle layers being printed at a different speed due to Cooling > Minimum Layer Time. You can look at this for yourself in Preview mode by setting Color Scheme > Line Type to Speed:
If you set Cooling > Minimum Layer Time in the print quality settings to something low like 1 second then none of the layers will be quick enough that they get slowed down.
Hi! Thanks for your reply!
I don't see any difference at the middle of the X, in preview mode. Or isn't that what you mean?
Nope, that's what I meant 😞 Just another thought I had, although it looks like you don't - you don't have Experimental > Use Adaptive Layers turned on, do you? Also I'd have a look at the flow rate colour scheme in the preview mode and make sure it's pretty much the same for the whole thing (except bits like the details on the X).
The last time I had this sort of problem was a worn nozzle, but you've already covered that one.
20 hours ago, ierm said:- Adjust the extruder tension. But it got so tight, the filament got shaved
Extruder tension shouldn't be a "start high and go down" sort of thing, it should be "start around the middle and tune it". Too high, even if it's not shaving the filament, it's going to be biting it and mess up the filament (you can check it by extruding a bit of filament then retracting it out of the extruder). Too low and the gear/s will slip and and not properly feed.
Also if you're adjusting the wheels that hold the X axis gantry onto the frame, make sure they're the right tension. You should be able to use one finger to make it go up and down a little bit but return to where it is.
Quoteust another thought I had, although it looks like you don't - you don't have Experimental > Use Adaptive Layers turned on, do you? Also I'd have a look at the flow rate colour scheme in the preview mode and make sure it's pretty much the same for the whole thing (except bits like the details on the X).
No, I haven't 'Adaptive Layers' turned on.
The flow rate seems to be the same for the whole thing:
Quote
Extruder tension shouldn't be a "start high and go down" sort of thing, it should be "start around the middle and tune it". Too high, even if it's not shaving the filament, it's going to be biting it and mess up the filament (you can check it by extruding a bit of filament then retracting it out of the extruder). Too low and the gear/s will slip and and not properly feed.
I tried a lot of different tensions. But the extruder kept shaving my filament. So I removed the part on the picture, following the advice I got on Reddit (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/1fs0ryp/ender3_v2_all_metal_extruder_scrapes_filament_to/).
But now I can't adjust the tension any further, because tightening the screw doesn't help if the part on the picture is removed. Unless I undo the upgrade to the metal extruder, and place back the plastic one.
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Also if you're adjusting the wheels that hold the X axis gantry onto the frame, make sure they're the right tension. You should be able to use one finger to make it go up and down a little bit but return to where it is.
Should I able to make the wheels turn with one finger? Or only lifting them up?
I found it quite hard to give the wheels the right tension, without making the x-gantry unlevel.
1 hour ago, ierm said:I found it quite hard to give the wheels the right tension, without making the x-gantry unlevel.
There's a second Z screw upgrade for that if you're really worried 🙂 As long as tension is the same on both sides it should be alright... most of the time.
1 hour ago, ierm said:Should I able to make the wheels turn with one finger? Or only lifting them up?
You shouldn't be able to turn the wheels themselves. Just press against the side of the assembly with one or two fingers and you should be able to wiggle the whole thing up or down a few mm, but it goes back into place.
Also, something which isn't on your list but is in the "so obvious it's easy not to remember" category, so just to make sure, you did check the tension on the X axis belt, right? It should be pretty taut but you can pick it at a little like a guitar string but and it just snaps back into place.
Yes, I checked the belt tension. And the wheels seem to be okay too.
I wonder if the extruder is the problem, because I can't adjust the tension of the metal extruder.
I extruded three pieces of filament for calibrating E-steps (to take the average), but then differed 1 mm each (96, 97 and 98mm). So I don't know if it doesn't extrude continuous, or if it's normal to have a mm difference between your measurements.
2 hours ago, ierm said:I extruded three pieces of filament for calibrating E-steps (to take the average), but then differed 1 mm each (96, 97 and 98mm). So I don't know if it doesn't extrude continuous, or if it's normal to have a mm difference between your measurements.
Not normal, Extrusion rate should be consistent. If the metal extruder can't work without chewing up the filament, you might want to consider downgrading. But underextrusion like you're experiencing could definitely be responsible for the lines in your print. At the very least, calibrate your e-steps to be the average.
I downgraded it today. But I ran into the problem why I replaced it earlier. It's nearly impossible to put the filament into the second hole in the plastic, where it gets out. The filament turns right, along the pulley. Instead of straight forward through te hole. So I had to put back the metal one. I used the gear and pulley of the old one. But it doesn't help.
My metal extruder hasn't a metal coupler, where the filament comes out. But some kind of plastic part, that goes into the bowden tube. It's quite wobbly, so I wondered if that could be the problem.
It's been so long since my E3 V2 Neo died got killed by shoddy filament that I can't even remember what extruder it came with (it was a version of the E3V2 with several of the more popular upgrades preinstalled, like the colour screen, CR-touch sensor, PEI bed) but it didn't have any couplings for the Bowden tube - you just stuck the tube into the "out" end of the extruder and "in" end of the print head and stuck a little blue clamp thing on each end (can't remember exactly what it was there for, but something). Bought a Capricorn upgrade kit and it did come with some fancy couplings, not sure if I needed them - the death murder of the printer came after the order but before the delivery so unfortunately I can't help you too much on that front. @GregValiant is probably your best bet around here for help with that era of Creality hardware (think he's been busy or something for a little while so don't take it personally if he doesn't reply straight away.
Oh, haha, I didn't know there are so many different extruders for one printer.
I thought about buying a Capricorn upgrade kit too. But I can't use the couplings, since there's no thread in the metal extruder to screw it in.
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Dustin 160
You will likely get better help with your issue in a community dedicated to your 3d printer in question.
This is the UltiMaker Community.. and while many people here use different printers.
Its not really the best place for focused support for your specific issue.
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