Nylon is the classic material for parts like this, as it has high resistance to organic solvents such as petroleum. You can print it yourself but you might find it too flexible, if so, get it sintered in glass filled nylon. Try your local prototyping shop, there are a lot of places MUCH cheaper than shapeways!
Just been looking at that taulman nylon, looks nice, especially in the red glaze. I assume the 618, 645 and 680 are their grades but i cant find info on them on their site
Just been looking at that taulman nylon, looks nice, especially in the red glaze. I assume the 618, 645 and 680 are their grades but i cant find info on them on their site
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It wasnt displaying properly on my phone, worked on my pc though
I recently did some shock absorber seals for a friends 1951 MG TD in Taulman 645. They were I think an inch high. At that height flexible they were not which surprised me. oh 100% infill btw
Also the red glaze t-glase was manufactured after Taulman retooled to 2.85 filament so you should not have any trouble with the Bowden tubes. I didn't. Mind you I have not succeeded yet in getting the t-glasse to stick to the bed! Oh and the t-glase has a much lower TC, close to PLA if not a tad lower, so probably do not want to use it for inlet manifold stuff unless you have a 1920's standard Ford without a bonnet 
If you for 645 make sure your supplier can assure their stock is very new so that you do not get stuck with a 3.00 reel (both are labelled 3.00)
Well i just bought some t glase red and some taulman bridge. Both were a bit of a pain to get onto the bed but after a few tweaks i got them to work.
For the t glase i was at about 230 degrees with 75 degree bed and glue, i also had to print real slow to get it to adhere, i think my initial layers are set at 10-15mm/s and then i even turned it down on the machine by at least half. Once initially stuck down i could crank it up and printing on itself seemed fine, i ended up at 120% of 50mm/s which still stuck fine. One downside to the faster speed was it kept extruding while moving, so if youre moving between points you'd have to adjust filament retraction. For me it wasnt an issue so i left it. Printing thicker at 0.3 or 0.4 layers requires more heat i think and i didnt have much luck with it. The part was quite tough though which i was pleased with, not very clear as i printed at 0.1 layers but did the job nice, it sands up nicely too and is the colour of red liquorice. Seems more flexible than the pla but definately has more strength to it too.
The bridge i think i was about 240 degrees with a 62 degree bed, i got a print off but wasnt that keen on it, now i think its more to do with my impatience really. I printed at 0.3 layers probably quite quickly and he overall asthetics werent great. I was hoping itd be more rigid too, maybe my car parts would be as theyre thicker. I did a glasses frame at 0.1 layers at about 30mm/s and it came out a nic3 finish.
One problem i did have with nylon was getting these little spider web type bits coming off and sticking to everything, i ended up getting nylon stuck to the outside of the extruder which when touching anything pulls up strands. Not much fun but not a massive issue. Finishing was a pain too as i couldnt easily finish the bridge, more to do with the 0.3 layers etc making a much rougher part but still. When trying to sand it it just makes the surface rough and stays there, if your hands are dirty itll absorb dirt well too which isnt nice to look at. Ill keep trying though
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3dcase 37
Hi,
no idea, would be interesting to know, I will give it a try.
I think the temperature will be a problem, PLA gets soft again around 50C.
Perhaps to brittle to stand the vibrations.
Do the prototyping yourself and have it printed/sintered at Shapeways?
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