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mr_seeker

Using replicatorG34 and Cura Firmware

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Hello,

Some people on the forums here are asking about Cura, Marlin & the new replicatorG. Here are some things to note:

-> 5D firmware is currently NOT supported on replicatorG34. I am currently working on a bugfix because 5D doesnt support M115 (show firmware version).

-> Cura firmware works in replicatorG. However, you need to go to File -> Preferences -> Tick "Show experimental machine profiles". If you restart the software, you will note that there is a new machine called "Experimental Ultimaker Sprinter/Marlin firmware". This works with the firmware supplied by Cura.

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RepG25 + Marlin 1.0.0 release candidate 0 = Z axis top and bottom limit switch ignored

RepG0034(Green Orange White UI) + Marlin 1.0.0 release candidate 0 = Z axis top and bottom limit switch ignored

RepG0034(Ultimaker Edition 0034) + Erick's Build from 2012-04-17 = Z axis top and bottom limit switch ignored

Cura firmware, from RC1, works correctly with RepG25, RepG0034 and RepG0034UM, and the Z axis limit switches work fine, stopping the table before the stepper grinds at the bottom or the nozzle hits at the top.

The warning message is clear in the RepG0034 that it will not work with the older firmware, but is there a jumper I needed to set to prevent the Z axis limit switched from being ignored with the most current Merlin firmware and RepG0034xx?

Yes, my nozzle is now plugged with blue tape and/or melted acrylic as a result of its impact and burning in. I did not expect the end switches not to stop the Z movements, and I was not fast enough to prevent damage to my UM

After just a day of some just gorgeous detail prints with the Marlin firmware, I am waiting for a new nozzle.....

Has anyone else had the challenge with the UM and the Mega 2560?

Any help is appreciated,

Thank you,

A

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RepG25 + Marlin 1.0.0 release candidate 0 = Z axis top and bottom limit switch ignored

Yes, my nozzle is now plugged with blue tape and/or melted acrylic as a result of its impact and burning in. I did not expect the end switches not to stop the Z movements, and I was not fast enough to prevent damage to my UM

 

i have with success cleaned out my nozzle from paper and acryllic with compressed air on a can. Take head out - heat it up to 240-250 degrees - then shoot some compressed air through it. I used a heat resistant tip on my compressed air can. Only do it if you have written off the printhead anyway!.... :-)

I cant get RepG34 to connect to my Marlin 1.0RC2 - while everyting else connects. Anyway I am happy with Cura RC2 and Netfabb.

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The compressed air removed the clog. I just had the head in the oven for 20 mins at 240, and it work. I moved back to Cura/Marlin and I am printing again.

Thank you,

A

Glad to hear it worked for you as well! :-) I actually just used a "3rd hand" (a little tool with 2 arms that can grip) - and unscrewed the bottom part of the print head while the rest of printhead is still on the x-y cross. Then I let the 3rd hand hold the print head nozzle heating block (alu screw part, peek and nozzle) - and the other arm on the 3rd hand hold the fan away. Then I turned the print head on and let it heat itself up. I can clean my clogged head in about 20 minutes from start to finish using that strategy :-)

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