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On which sides is it slamming - the left, or the back? Probably the left. Most likely, the head isn't triggering the end stop before it hits the side wall. What you need to do is a) to make sure the left side fan is bent down neatly, and there's no gap between the left shroud and the side of the print head, and then b) if needed, bend the end stop out slightly. It's located in the back left corner, under the top panel. Grip the lever on the endstop about one quarter of the way from the front with needle-nosed pliers, and push the lever to the left (so as not to strain the hinge) while rotating the end towards the right (to put a very slight kink in the lever, so it contacts the sliding block sooner). Be gentle; if you bend it too far, it won't contact the sliding block at all. In that case, straighten it a little bit.
Probably when the head hit the frame and the motor kept turning, it jumped the belt over the teeth a little bit. To fix that, push the head all the way to the right, and then loosen the pulley at the left end of the loose belt, and let the tension equalize. Then tighten it up tight again.
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The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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illuminarti 18
On which sides is it slamming - the left, or the back? Probably the left. Most likely, the head isn't triggering the end stop before it hits the side wall. What you need to do is a) to make sure the left side fan is bent down neatly, and there's no gap between the left shroud and the side of the print head, and then b) if needed, bend the end stop out slightly. It's located in the back left corner, under the top panel. Grip the lever on the endstop about one quarter of the way from the front with needle-nosed pliers, and push the lever to the left (so as not to strain the hinge) while rotating the end towards the right (to put a very slight kink in the lever, so it contacts the sliding block sooner). Be gentle; if you bend it too far, it won't contact the sliding block at all. In that case, straighten it a little bit.
Probably when the head hit the frame and the motor kept turning, it jumped the belt over the teeth a little bit. To fix that, push the head all the way to the right, and then loosen the pulley at the left end of the loose belt, and let the tension equalize. Then tighten it up tight again.
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