Thank you i will try it
Yes it worked.
Yesterday i played around printing ABS. What kind of settings do you use for ABS? What is about the fan? I enable the fan at a high of 2,5 mm, but it was not a goog idea. The object get loose in the moment the fan starts. Whitout fan it sticks without warping but bridging works not good.
It will work up to any temperature you can get it with the stock supply. Which usually is around 110-120C. The 100C specification is because there are variations in beds and some beds won't go as high as others (simple manufacture variance)
We seriously pumped up the power on one bed for a test, it got well over 300C without any real problems. But this was with a bench supply running 40V or so.
@Daid: Thank you for the clarification
For ABS you have to worry about layer adhesion. If the nozzle isn't hot enough or the fan is too strong. I usually print ABS with no fan. I have only printed maybe 20 parts with ABS so I'm not an expert. I suspect 30% fan for overhangs and bridging would be helpful but in truth I don't know. My parts have always been easy mechanical parts without much overhang. I also always print at 245C.
I printed one part by accident with 100% fan and I did get a layer separation but only after an incredible amount of force.
If you aren't getting good layer adhesion, raise the temp and/or lower the fan.
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gr5 2,224
Here is a link to the configuration file for the version of Marlin that is for the heated bed kit:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/blob/Marlin_UM_HeatedBedUpgrade/Marlin/Configuration.h
On line 176 you can clearly see the limit is 150C. I don't think it can really get that hot though without some added insulation or enclosing the print area.
I typically print at 110C for ABS. It works well for me but it takes a long time to get from 100C to 110C.
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