Hi,
Thanks for the input.
I'll fiddle around with your hints, but my outstanding question remains; where do you set the bed temp of the UM"?
Regards,
Johan
DidierKlein 729
On the machine, in the material settings you can set the bed temp (or in tune menu while printing but it's better to save the profile for the material on the printer)
Tried to attach some pictures of my print-out to my reply, but I didn't make it.
Any hints?
My deafult brim setting in Cura is 20, so I guess that should be fine?
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gr5 2,005
Increasing temp to 75C might help but I don't recommend it. There are better ways to keep the part down.
1) Squish bottom layer - the bottom layer "traces of filament" on the glass should be flat, not rounded. If they don't seem flat (wider than tall) then turn all 3 screws the same amount pushing glass closer to nozzle and restart.
2) Use Brim. About 10 brim passes for problem parts. This is the most important of all the advice.
3) Bed must be at least 40C or the plastic doesn't flow well onto the glass before freezing.
4) PVA GLUE! There are 3 popular forms of PVA glue: gluestick that comes with UM2, hairspray, wood glue. All 3 work great. For glue stick if you want it to be as strong as possible it's good to dilute it a bit. Easiest way to dilute it is to start with clean glass, then put glue stick down in alternating stripes so that half the glass is bare. Then pour or spray some water - about the amount of water in a soup spoon. Then spread this around with a tissue until the glue is very thin. Let it dry (it helps to have a heated bed). Wood glue is easier to use - dilute with about 10 parts water to 1 part glue and shake in a jar and reuse the jar. Paint the glue on with a paint brush and let dry before printing. A heated bed helps the glue dry faster.
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