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ddurant

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  1. Right. Also, I dunno M2210 but Joergen is usually pretty clever so you may want to look into that, too. If you didn't already know, multiply your current esteps value by 50/46 (1.09) then measure again. Keep repeating and adjusting esteps by desired/measured until it starts behaving.
  2. Do you really mean "extrusion length" here? The esteps value is how many steps (to the extruder motor) are needed to pull one mm of filament into the drive mechanism - it's not about the length of filament coming out of the nozzle. Unless the filament is being offset (ie: slipping in the drive) in a very predicatable & consistant way, changing esteps may not be the right way to address this problem.
  3. Is pricing available for this? I don't see any..
  4. It will be part of a G1 command, just like X, Y, E and F. It must be in there..
  5. Another of the under-extrusion but with over-extrusion in there, too.. too little & too much by ddurant123, on Flickr
  6. I think the bigger question is going to be what will technically meet your needs. FDM (extrusion) printers can be a bit tricky with small parts and large parts can take a lot of time to print, if you also want quality.. (you should also add a MakerGear M2 to your list..)
  7. I suspect I'm on the wrong continent to get this sent to you any time soon but looked at the model anyway.. It's really quite small - about how big is it supposed to be?
  8. F is feed rate - the X/Y speed in mm/minute. E is extrusion - how much filament is going into the drive. Find a G1 command with a Z value in it - that's the Z height. MAKE SURE you do what Daid said and put an M92 E in there to reset the extrusion to where you left off. Failure to do this won't break anything but you'll be very, very unhappy with the result. Like, it'll start by trying to push (based on the gcode you posted) about 11 meters of filament through the hot end before doing anything else. Ask if you're not sure exactly what to do..
  9. Great! It's been so long since I was a new user that I've forgotten what the process looks like.. When you signed up for the group, did you get an email, saying that you had to click a link or do something? I'm just wondering what the process is and how things can be made smoother for new users... No, I didn't get an email to click on something.. there should be a way to give post permissions by default to all new users that sign up.. Don't really want to do that - it encourages the spammers.. :( It should be obvious for new users so I suspect something is broken. I had to switch bac
  10. Great! It's been so long since I was a new user that I've forgotten what the process looks like.. When you signed up for the group, did you get an email, saying that you had to click a link or do something? I'm just wondering what the process is and how things can be made smoother for new users...
  11. Mine's a little sensitive to static.. If I forget to touch something metal before touching the machine while it's printing, I sometimes get a reset. Not often - maybe 2-3 times, ever. Things like having fluorescent lights on nearby can also do weird things. My machine doesn't have a problem with them but I've heard of other machines having such issues.
  12. I can see that you (or somebody else named 'approx') joined the group 4 days ago but that "posting" for you is set to "none" insead of the "allowed" setting that most people have. There are a number of others that have joined in the last couple weeks like that, too. I don't see anyway to change that setting, though.. WTH, google? I'll poke around with it some more. I seem to have all the right privs to manage/approve members but google is saying there aren't any new members to approve.. Is it sending you emails when people post? edit: try posting now.. Better?
  13. Only that I've never had great luck getting transparent PLA to come out really transparent. I've suspected that the two big factors are printing speed (ie: pressure/turbulance in the nozzle) and the temperature. I don't have any rules or tips, though...
  14. I've got one of the first Ultimakers to ship and have printed for many, many hours. I've seen this problem, the PLA plug at the end of the bowden tube, only once. My best advice, if you haven't already given up, is to never, EVER leave the machine hot. Don't even preheat until you've got the gcode loaded and the build platform ready and all that. It only takes a minute to heat up so get everything else done and ready before heating.. Once it's done printing, make sure the temperature gets set back to 0 so it cools off. As filament moves through the system, it pulls heat out of the hot end.
  15. I agree. Rob Guiseburt, the guy who coined the term "Volumetric 5D", has been talking about that for a while now. He seems to think it's not THAT hard. Not sure I buy that but Rob's a very clever guy. Personally, I'm not sure it's worth it. For the most part, we're printing at resolutions where small differences in filament diameter are in the noise - unless you're printing at 100% infill, over-volume just gets smushed into the voids and under-volume ends up making lines that don't exactly join but are pretty close. Filaments that have big diameter variations tend to cause other problems (
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