ddurant

I also think that's right but would be VERY surprised if that fixed the problem..

Usually, asking to be a mod is usually the best way to never become one. If they'd like some extra help, they know where to find us.

Maybe there's a better reason for it but I suspect it's like that simply because it's always been like that..

That was the original plan but since the netfabb start gcode is machine-specific, not material-specific, it would break the existing material definitions. You'd either have to use just my stuff or hand-edit gcode files if you switched back & forth.. edit: that and the firmware is slowing you down.. Those F values do indeed look correct to me. edit2: When you connect repg or whatever to the printer, do you get some debug info from the firmware? Marlin will spit out min/max feed rates and such. If I had to bet, I'd bet you're tripping over one of those settings.

Can you pick a G1 command somewhere in the middle of the gcode file and look at the F component? That will be the feed rate, in mm/minute..

Yup.. For larger bits, I'm lucky to get more than 2-3 prints before redoing the tape. I use the wider 2-inch stuff, which is pretty quick to replace and is pretty cheap to buy..

Scroll down a bit - they're doing rings and things, with details that are quite a bit smaller..

Not sure I understand about the feed rate.. Are you saying just that it moves too fast? If so, tell my program to use slower feed rates! Why did you enter a filament diameter that was incorrect? Nozzle size doesn't matter too much for this stuff. It does define the min/max thread widths you can use but that's about it - it really doesn't have anything to do with layer height.. I think I'm confused.. Can you post more details on what you tried and what happened?

Keep working at it!! Check out the tiny stuff this guy's done, apparently with an Ultimaker: http://monocircus.com/en/news_post/tag/3D_printing/ Not sure how he's doing it but it's looking quite nice...

I have no clue.. ...but I'd definitely redo that joint! It's probably worth going over the whole board and touching up anything else you find too, while you're in there. As long as you're careful (and, of course, don't have it plugged in!) I don't think there's much risk of messing up the shield..

Unless you're really pushing the limits of your current nozzle by dropping the thread width down to 0.35mm (and then trying to get even thinner), a smaller nozzle isn't going to get you any improvement - if anything, it will just make things more difficult because, like Joergan says, smaller nozzles increase the internal pressure. If you've already pushed the thread width down as low as the stock nozzle will handle and it still isn't enough, fine - absolutely go for a smaller nozzle. If you haven't, a smaller nozzle is a waste at this point.

That's a real bummer.. :( I'd have contacted Ultimaker instead!! I don't think I've ever heard of a nozzle breaking on any machine unless it was one somebody made themselves.. Eh?

I'll look into that. I think it's just doing the default values for reversal at the moment.. Actually, I'm not doing default values - I'm explicitly setting them to 0. Well, I guess if the defaults are all 0, I am doing the default values. Zeros either way, though... Do you have any more details on what you're seeing?

Excellent. That looks much better!

Can you give this one a shot? If there's a netfabbconfig.xml file in the directory you keep this in, delete that before trying the new version.. Please let me know if this works! edit: and the 'fix' here, which is a bit sleazy, is to force the program to run with English units; using a . character for a decimal place instead of a , character. You should probably keep this in mind and use . when entering numbers until I get some code that's a bit less sleazy.. edit: old version deleted - see first post in thread for the latest..

Thanks.. It looks like your extruder speeds are off by a factor of about 15 million, which is a bit much and would explain why it's not happy. An extruder speed of 31251996 RPMs just isn't gonna work. I suspect this is more problems with , vs . for decimal places. I'll see if I can sort out where it's getting confused - might not be until tomorrow night.

:( Can you post the .reprapconfig file (it may need to be .zip'ed first) here?

I'm more disagreable than you are, Bradley!! With SF-pre40, you've got to screw around with matching feed/flow rates every time you change layer height or thread width.. If your print's too thin, there's really no easy way to tell what the problem is - too much feed? too little flow? something mechanical? who knows! It's just too easy to go off into the weeds and get stuck wandering around in them.. With SF40+, you at least get some assurance that if you set feed and flow to the same value and measure the filament correctly, it's going to print something close to correct. In this particular thread, I'm a bit surprised (and a bit suspicious) that a leaky printhead could cause things to be off as much as he's seeing - it will be interesting to see what happens when he gets the leak sorted and starts printing again. Volumetric 5D was the biggest advance in home printing for 2011, IMO. Backing away from it is not the way forward!

If it's any consolation, I had to stare at the picture for a minute to spot it. If you take it all apart, you should get some teflon tape in there when you re-assemble, like in http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev ... usion_head . Also, be VERY gentle when you remove the nozzle - several people have reported breaking to tube that it threads onto..

I disagree - everybody should move off the standard stuff and up to SF40+!!

It really depends on your definition of smooth.. Once you get it printing well at easy settings, you can decrease your w/t so that it prints thinner threads. I think down to about 0.35mm should work. Pictures at a 45 degree angle would be better since ones taken head-on don't show depth. That said, things still look a little thin to me - maybe try dropping down the filament packing density a bit more to 0.85 and see how that looks. If it's better but still thin, drop it a hair more. If it starts to get blobby, turn it up a hair.

That looks far better to me - you can't see the layers underneath any more! What settings changed between the two top-view pictures? Extra Shells are extra laps around the perimeter.. If you look at your top-view pictures, you can see one lap around the outside of the object then zig-zag infill on the interior. If you turned extra shells back up, there would be multiple laps around the outside.. You might find http://davedurant.wordpress.com/2010/10 ... sic-terms/ useful, though it's a bit dated.. Having a look through http://techwall.net/analyzing-your-first-print is also worth doing - Florian has written up some great articles, though they're mostly netfabb-based.

Also, sorta again, one of the big goals here is to figure out what to feed back to the people at netfabb - I'll consider this a success if I can start telling people that they don't need my program (or some other program) because it's all built into netfabb.. If you have observations on what works well and what doesn't, please post 'em. Include as much detail as you'd like.. Glad it's working for you! There's very little actual math in the program! It's probably +95% windows forms stuff and xml reading/writing. All it's really doing is calculating the volumes in the print (thread length * width * height) and figuring out how much filament is needed to get that volume..

I'll look into that. I think it's just doing the default values for reversal at the moment.. For the start.gcode stuff, you'll need to copy/paste it from my program into netfabb. It's the button labeled "..." in Machine then click the Ultimaker Specific tab.

It's still working for me.. I get a popup saying it's expired but it goes ahead and works anyway..