yzorg
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Posts posted by yzorg
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I have another printhead fan upgrade for you:
Swiss Design.. including cheeseholes and maximised perfomance to weight ratio.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35324
derived from Daids massive kickoff Fanshroud. ->
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34603
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awsome
thanks
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Hm.
what do you mean by hiding my mechanical problem? its not hiding if the problem is gone completetly. isnt it?
i didnt knew that i had a mechanical problem... since the mechanics work perfectly smooth and my prints actually turn out to be quite perfect.
What do you suggest me to do? i got the hardware triple checked now..
raise the Steppermotor power?
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Hi Guys
Newest Cura on a Mac..
I wanted to test the USB connection and stumbled over a nasty Problem. i used SD card most of the time before.
(i can print fine... its just the Manual temp setting that gives me problems)
I got the Print window up front and want to type in the Temperature my Ultimaker should go to.
but instead of accepting that Temperature i entered, it jumps back to 0. every time!
This also not works the other way around.. the UM is hot and i want it to go down to 0. same problem.
The only way i can set the temperature manually is by clicking(about 220 times) those mini buttons next to the temp. field and wait for the numbers to really slowly going up to 220°.
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i also took some sewing machine oil.
but what about dry graphite lubricant powder.
can this be an option too?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant
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Kennt wer einen guten Deutschen Lieferanten der Teflon oder PFA schläuche im angebot hat?
habe immer nur Amerika oder England stämmige webseiten gefunden.
Ich will mehrere schläuche mit Aussenduchmesser 6mm und Innendurchmesser 3.5mm bis 4mm bestellen.
Interessant wäre auch ein Hersteller der in solche schläuche ein gewinde einfräsen kann..
damit könnte man relativ schnell ein "bowdenpopping" für immer verschwinden lassen.
gruss
Yvo W.
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NIce Hack!
would love to do that to our Schoolprinter.. also a BFB3000.
you could try to use shielded cables and rewire all endstops.. but i know that could be a longer task to do.
Thers also this sticky shielding mesh you could buy and wrap the endstop cables.
http://www.hollandshielding.com/223-R_F
... eld-en.htm
I had some interference problems on my ultimaker.
got lot of old usb cables around so i chopped them up an rewired all endstops and all additionnal fans on my Ultimaker. no problems since.
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wasnt Interference i think. but i still rewired everything in shielded cables.
by cranking speed up while printing i found out the problem suddenly vanishes.
i had cura set to produce gcode with Printspeed 50mm/s and that was the problem. set to 70mm/s all problems are gone.. its like a miracle.
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Thanks
have fun testing.
the one with the curved spokes is quite soft... you will have skipping teeth.
the other one is stronger.
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i got another tipp on this..
if i print with Printspeed 50mm/s (Cura)
my machine tends to behave very strange.. printing first layer fine and next layer 5mm away then prograssing to print there sometimes but also making layers piles all over the place.
after setting that Printspeed up to 70mm/s
No issues anymore.
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hi guys
i got a similar problem. seems to have many reasons for same effect. Filament, temp, pressure, and so on.
i could get rid of it by adding severals things to my machine..
i hope they may help you too.
its crucial that you have set e-steps that perfectly fit the filament you use.
heres what i did.
- check all belts tension and alignment. do this regularly and check if the pulleys are tightened.
- adding a fan to hotend that blows between Alu and wood creating a coldzone.
- double check if endstopcables get near to steppercables. (Interference) divide them better and have them properly twisted. make shure you dont wind them up to coils when binding with cableties.
later i also:
- changed back to standard feeder pressure lever. I know its strange, but i just have better prints with it right now.
- changed back to V1 Nozzle. My V2 got clogged with bits of burned-out teflon tread sealing tape. dont use that tape!
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Hi guys
i came up with the idea of the extruder wheel that slightly gives a bit..
Idea: If thers a too high pressure being built up the cogwheel can jump a tooth and release it.
these wheels actually add some more softness to the acceleration of the extruder movements.
I intend less stress on the filament when retracting very fast and often.
maybe its also good for difficult materials aswell... think of soft materials.
Please test and critizise:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34923
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on a Mac..
if you dont "eject" usb stics and SD cards and wait that crucial second before unplugging it, this problem could also occur..
If you are turning that dialknob on the ulticontroller too short after inserting the card or turning it too fast there can also be some strange behavior.
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if not mechanics related it could be EMI interference
-> one or more endstop cables (or aditional fan power cables in my case) are passing too near to a steppermotor cable.
avoid this and have all wires properly twisted.
try going faster. In Cura If i slow down my my gcode to be generated for 50mm/s i get all strange printing behaviour.
I can print fine with 70mm/s...
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printing with raft can help sometimes.
I also heard hairspray onto the blue tape can strenghten the bond.
A heated build plate will be the final solution i think.
Needs Tempered glass or Aluminium with kaptontape as buildplattform
i am also working on this. but i didnt found a place yet to buy Tempered or Pyrex glass in flat shape and 21x21 size..
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maybe one of the following:
- EMI interference -> one or more endstop cables are passing too near to a steppermotor cable.
Just avoid this and have all wires properly twisted
- belts not tight enough. should hear skipping sound sometimes if this is the case.
Get a upgradepart from thingiverse..
Check the modifications Board here. there are some awesome essential addons for ultimakers
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LED and Fans have a seperate power wiring and power supply...
i think im gonna cut some old usb cables that already have shielding and rewire everything for the fans and LEDs
Edit:
This solved the problem.
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Does anybody else has superslow OS dialogs ?
i have that definitvely since last Cura upgrade.. before, all dialogs(open and save) were lightning fast!
i didnt had a gcode error since..
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Hi everyone,
i added tree Fans and some LEDs to my Ultimaker. (on their own power scource)
Even though i twisted all wires nicely, i withnessed shifted prints when i turned the system on.
EMI Interference seems to be the problem.
its like having interfering steppermotor and endstop cables..
So i asked myself if someone alredy solved this problem somehow.. maybe tested some shielding like this:
http://www.hollandshielding.com/223-R_F ... eld-en.htm
because i dont want to wire everything on seperated ways down to the powerscource.
greetings
Yvo W.
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i removed all of this sealing tape... also on V1 nozzles.
Maybe thers a product that can sustain more heat.
because it tends to degrade under high temperature into a hard brittle substance that can clog your nozzle..
i just tighten the PEEK and Nozzle realy hard. by hand.. else you could break it.
also putting som ABS trough the system will close some gaps in a dirty way..
but i dont recomend this.
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STL file is available to anyone who wants it.
Can you share the STL to me, I'll print your design right away.
I cannot send PM's yet as this is my first post...
I would like to have that stl too.. but cant find the download on thingiverse...
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I hope Snowygrouchs coldend ugrade will help me too.
initially i thought i could split the airflow of the Standard Printhead Fan.
So i reaches Print and Coldend just leaving the heaterblock uncooled.
But i didnt want to make this fan run all the time so...
I will build this upgrade with a 60x60x15mm Radial fan.
like this i dont have to design a fanshroud and actually save space.
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Hi Guys
Three things..
OS
I noticed since tha last upgrade for Cura the OS dialogs have gotten realy slow. Takes several seconds before the content of a folder is displayed.. Other Apps dont even need 0.01 second to show all folder content.
I recently got an SSD and everything getting slower again realy bugs me.
Slice..
I sliced the Pressurepen.stl multiple times to compare how the gcode filled the walls.
So i was adjusting the Layercounter to see beween some layers.
After that i changed some (infill) parameters and resliced. (didnt set the Layercounter back to 0)
Now after the slice finished i got my gcode, but it was somehow animated... layers kept blend in, up to the point where i was looking into the layers before. then it stopped.
somehow cura remenbered this setting and reproduced it.
WTF..
Now i cleared Cura s Gcodes away, reloaded the .stl and tried again..
I know the .stl is not perfectly healthy but it printed fine earlier.
Look what i got...
i got this strange Gcode disc hovering in my print.
Sadly i actually cant reproduce that until now
but i still have that gcode and a screenshot.
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i could fix it now..
Problem was the forming of "Retractionplugs" just above the hotend. See the other thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1958
these plugs would jam incoming filament with increasign strengh where the Bowden and the PEEK meet.
I noticed with my V1 nozzle it tends to clog less. so this is my solution for now...
I removed the V2 Nozzle and the White insulator part. because before i added them i was able to print very good with my settings. not that much depending on filament softness and diameter.
Teflon oder PFA Schläuche
in Deutsch
Posted
Ich hab hier einen lieferanten der mir ein gratis sample geschickt hat. man staune.. Aus England, immerhin nicht USA.
Versuchs doch da auch. Ich hab mich als studenten zu erkennen gegeben und das rohr als experimentiersample bekommen.
PFA Tubing 4mm ID 6mmOD PF4X6 700mm
Die Firma heisst:
AdTech Polymer Engineering LTD
www.adtech.co.uk