IRobertI
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3D Prints
Posts posted by IRobertI
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Besides the main layer height of the print you also have an Initial Layer height which is substantially thicker than 0.06mm. You could lower that setting to get it to print but... to be honest I'm not sure how happy you'll be with the result, that's a very very thin sheet leaving very little room for error.
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Yes, this is intended behaviour. Different materials have different delays before being retracted all the way back to the spool again. No, you can't change that without hacking the firmware, which isn't recommended 🙂
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The QR feeder needs different settings in the firmware to work correctly. It is an after market feeder which needs a different E-step setting from the original. This is why your printer stopped working correctly when you installed the default firmware which is meant to be used with the original feeder. Look up the instructions on Bondtech's page and make sure you use their modified firmware, or update the settings manually.
Not sure if this is the correct page so verify first, but look at the description and you'll see what I'm talking about:
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Does the printer have any other modifications besides the Olsson block? What feeder do you have on it?
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Sticky side down.
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The Ultimaker S3/S5 uses one version (the one with the bigger hole) and the UM3 uses the other version.
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4 hours ago, poligonaltree said:
For Anyone reading this with the same problem in this printer the actual error comes from the two printer heads being measure not in the right order.
As you can see in the video posted by mrGokhan the first printer head to be measure is the printer head B, and then it measures the Printer head A. that means that the relative distance is in fact negative and therefore giving a non realistic values.
The solution is to manually switch the printer head B up, so it starts to measure the printer A first. Why this is happening, I am not sure.
If the right core is not in the correct position during the measurement, the solution is not to manually move it before starting the print. The printer will lower/raise the core automatically when needed, if it fails to do this on its own then it's most likely a problem with the lift switch calibration. Luckily that's easily fixed by running the calibration utility on the printer which takes less than a minute to do.
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During the first step of calibration you rotate the menu button to raise the bed, not the physical screws.
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What is the actual message you're getting? The newest version of Cura works just fine with the older printers and you shouldn't need to do anything other than select the correct printer in cura.
Are you also running the latest firmware?
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I'd say it's time to replace the belts. They tend to get a bit squeaky/creaky with age. Sometimes you can get a bit more time without the noise by removing the belts and scrubbing the pulleys clean, but it's just a temporary "fix", the noise will soon return. The belts are pretty cheap though, so I'd go with replacing those, don't forget the short belts as well.
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Are you using an AA-core or a BB-core? PVA requires a BB-core, one was included in the box when you bought the printer if you bought it new.
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If the bowden is popping out of the feeder you first and foremost need a new collet for the bowden. There has been a number of collets that have had issues with the little "teeth" inside it not gripping the bowden tube good enough. Either get in contact with your reseller and they will most likely send a new one to you for free. Or just buy one (they're dirt cheap).
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Looks like underextrusion to me. I'd start by checking that the nozzle is clean and also, probably more likely, check the status of the PTFE coupler. On the old UM2s that part was quite often the problem:
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/56-replacing-the-ptfe-coupler
If it's worn out, replace it with the newer TFM (PTFE vs TFM is simply the type of material used for the coupler) for the UM2+. Also replace the spring with the spacer used on the 2+ and you'll have much much longer life on that part.
edit: As for the PLA being old. Yeah, it does age, but personally I've used 10 year old PLA and it works just fine.
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They are internal, yes.
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Since you say it's a pre-owned printer, could it just be that there was a print still left in the queue that it spat out once it got the correct core/filament-combo loaded?
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The belts do not need to be tensioned by you (except for the short belts on the motors if you ever remove those). The long belts are tensioned automatically by springs in the sliding blocks.
More than likely the shifting is caused by a loose set screw which is a five minute fix. Take a look here:
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shiftedYou can start by checking the set screws of the pulleys in the top corners of the printer which are easy to get at and then do a test print. If it doesn't shift any more you're done. If it does shift, you'll need to check the set screws of the pulleys that are mounted on the motors and for that you'll likely need to remove the motors to get to the screws as it's a tight squeeze in there.
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1 minute ago, duckandflea said:
Generally when I get a laggy response it's either not installed right or needs a restart, most of the time it's more precise than the mouse since you have analogue control and can move a model quick or slow depending on how much you move the 3D mouse.
It's not really that it's a laggy response as such. It's more the feeling that when you move a mouse and then stop moving, the stop is exactly where you stop. With the spacemouse you have to let it return to the middle of the travel which means it will continue to move a tiny amount (not much, but enough to annoy me). The movement with the mouse feels much more... "direct". I dunno, maybe if I had been a console gamer I would've had a better response to it since I would've already built up the muscle memory for that type of movement with the sticks of the controllers.
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9 hours ago, ozhawk said:
Looks like Ultimaker has made a BIG mistake with version 4.10, 11 and 12. NONE of these versions work with the AMD processors.
Hmm, seems to work fine for me, both on my first gen Ryzen desktop and my latest gen Ryzen laptop. Maybe uploading the logs can give the devs an idea on what's causing Cura to crash for you.
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6 hours ago, SilverDynamic said:
Colour scheme for preview is awful and confusing. One colour was enough for me to figure what was happening but I cannot tune this version to that.
What exactly do you mean here? The choices for colour schemes in layer view have been basically the same for ages. Cura 4.12 on the left and 15.04.6 which came out about 5 years ago and they look very comparable.
s.
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You can install the UM2+ firmware, it will not damage the printer and it will reverse the direction of the feeder. You may see some bigger temperature swings during the start of the print since the PID settings are tuned for the slightly stronger heater of the 2+.
Hopefully you have also replaced the motor for the one that comes with the 2+ as there's a difference between the 2 and 2+ motor. The one for the 2 is 400steps/revolution and the 2+ is 200steps/revolution.
You should not need to physically move the pins of the connector.
Sorry about the English 🙂
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If I were to guess I'd say it's the carbon fibre filling in the filament that is causing issues. The smaller the nozzle, the harder it is for these fibres to get through. A classic back from the old old days were the wood filaments that were popular at the time, they had a hard time with anything smaller than 0.6 because they kept jamming.
Easy to test. Clean the nozzle thoroughly again and then print with a "normal" material such as PLA and see if it still clogs up or not.
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27 minutes ago, DDoove said:
would the material station still be able to switch to another bay after it "swallowed" the very end of the filament?
Yes. There are two sensors within the pre-feeder (the feeder just inside the two holes where you push the filament in). The first sensor is tripped before the filament goes into the actual feeder so that will detect there is no filament before the last bit of filament goes through the feeder and can no longer be backed out.
You got an error because you prevented the printer from moving the material.
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Sounds like a piece of filament might have broken off and gotten stuck. See if this guide gets it sorted out:
What do you think is the cause of the material looking like this?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Just for future reference here is a guide I wrote a few years back on how to assemble the feeder in case someone stumbles across this topic in the future:
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/39-feeder-disassembly
As for the filament stopping at the head. This could be as simple as the filament getting stuck in one of the transitions between different sections in the head. Sometimes it can be enough to just grab the bowden tube and wiggling it around a bit from side to side and back and forth to change the direction of the filament slightly.
Another option, if you haven't already, is to cut the filament at an angle so that it has an easier time feeding all the way to the nozzle.
It can also be that you have a small gap between the end of the bowden and the top of the PTFE-part in the head (the little white part in the middle of the head, just under the spring. Make sure the bowden is as far down as it can go.
While a bit unlikely since you have successfully done an atomic (I'm assuming here that the filament you pulled out had a nice sharp point to it in the shape of the inside of the nozzle?) it could also be a worn out PTFE that needs to be replaced. To check, you kinda need to remove it to get a good look at it:
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/56-replacing-the-ptfe-coupler
As a final note, if you have the budget for it, I would highly recommend the Extrusion upgrade kit for your printer, it will effectively turn it into and Ultimaker 2+ and is a great upgrade IMHO.