IRobertI
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Posts posted by IRobertI
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5 hours ago, MrWaiCol said:
I've tried the method in the video. What i don't understand is how the filament colour gets changed. For me, after the pause, I clicked resume thinking the second colour would be cosen. Not so - the print continued with the initial colour. I have a S3 which has two extruders and I thought it would simply stop using extruder 1 and resume at 2. Am I wrong? Did I miss a step in the setup that i followed perfectly?
The trouble with the video is that he used 1 extruder and the S3 has two. Seems daft to have to manually remove the first colour and replace with a second - or is that the key? I have spend almost 2 hours researching this and nowhere is there an example of an S3 being used for dual colours.
Take a look at this video:
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Select the models as a group by holding down shift and clicking each one. Then right click on one of them and select "Merge models".
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If the shift was happening in the gcode you would see that in the preview in Cura. It's very unlikely though. More likely is that you have a loose pulley or something along those lines. I'm not familiar with that particular printer but I would check that all your screws are tight and that the belts have proper tension.
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Your end gcode has a "G28 X Z". G28 tells the printer to home the specified axis and unless your printer uses the Z axis as something other than up and down movement you probably want to change Z to Y.
https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29
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Clean the print cores (hot and/or cold pulls), if time is more valuable than money, try replacing them with fresh ones.
Open up the feeders and clean off the wheel that drives the filament.
Clean off the z-screw and re-lubricate with fresh grease.
Might want to consider replacing the bowden tubes as well if you have printed with them for a long time. But the first three is what I suggest starting with.
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Ah ok, that explains it 🙂 Head over to eiger.io that's where the slicer is.
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Markforged printers don't accept regular gcode, and Cura has no idea how to deal with the fibre reinforcement either. Is there a specific reason you don't want to use Eiger which is made specifically for those printers?
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Pause print, lift lever on feeder, pull old filament out, push new filament in (with a bit of extra push to properly prime), close lever and un-pause?
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6 minutes ago, 5ynt4x3rr0r said:
I've found that the reason that Cura doesn't adhere well is because Cura likes to move the Z axis up before printing to minimize scratching and not be directly on the print bed. The issue is, we already do that when we do bed leveling.
see the 'G1 Z2.0 F300'?
A quick and dirty trick would be to just delete the part that says 'G1 Z2.0 F3000' from the 'start G-Code' in Cura.
Look at the line under that, it moves back to Z0.3 to begin printing.
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2 hours ago, Navin2020 said:
what problems are u facing? At least your machine is operational, mines is dead!
OK..this is what i have done..
Got a 64Gb SD micro card, formated the card to FAT32 added the file the um-restore-6.1.0.img to it. The printer is non responsive. It is like completely non responsive. Please help me
This update and completely bricked my printer 😞
I assume you got a PDF with instructions from your reseller to do the firmware recovery? Did you follow the step where you use a separate program to write the firmware file to the memory card to make it bootable? You can't simply copy the file to the card, that will not work.
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That's supposed to be a zero, not an O as in Oscar.
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011640440 -
Take a look at this and see if it helps:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura-
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Your slider block has cracked and is not holding the rod properly (look close and you'll see that there's a crack in it). Get in contact with your reseller to get that sorted out.
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While you should be able to print at that layer height, unless you have a very specific reason to do so, it's mostly a waste of time IMHO. You can actually get worse print quality at such thin layers because any tiny variation in the filament or anything else along the extrusion chain can show up. Personally I never go below 50micron and even printing at that layer height is exceedingly rare for me.
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Real late reply here, sorry. But no, a torque driver isn't necessary. Just make sure the screws are nice and tight when you're done.
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Are you sure that it's not just the plastic that has moved? Removing the part when it's still warm makes it easy to bend it. Another thing that can happen is that once the parts comes off the glass and cools, the plastic can move a little bit. The reason I ask is because the part looks more bent than printed at an angle since there's a curve to it.
But to align the axes you can follow this guide:
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879-How-to-align-the-axles-on-your-Ultimaker-printerOr this one that I wrote years ago which is the lazy way of doing it without the calibration sticks:
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#misaligned-axes
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I haven't had to remove the LED profile yet but as far as I know it is simply stuck in place with double sided tape, and then the LED-strip is glued to that in turn. This is what the rendering looks like which seems to show a strip of tape on the top.
Not sure why you feel the need to remove it though? Once you slide the rod out of the side of the printer it has a little bit of give to it so that you can angle it slightly (not too much though, you don't want to damage the bearing) to make it easier to slide the new block+belt assembly on there.
@gr5 There's only one LED strip on the S5, not three as in the UM2/UM3
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22 minutes ago, kleftotronic said:
I am using Cura 4.6.2 and I couldn't find anything in the settings nor any visual cues as to this being possible.
I second this feature request and would love to see this added to a future version of Cura!
Check the "Object list" in the lower left corner
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Try making your wall thickness just slightly thicker. Or reduce the line width setting in Cura a smidge. There's also a setting called horizontal expansion which will artificially make your walls a little bit thicker. Pick one of those three and you should be good to go. Basically what's happening is that it's an edge case for the math involved in creating the line segments.
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The UM2 Go is a single extrusion printer, only one nozzle, so dual extrusion settings are irrelevant in this case. Looking at the latest picture, the plastic that is loaded looks quite thin but I'm not 100% sure. But yeah, that's the first thing to make sure, the diameter should be 2.85mm (sometimes sloppily called "3mm"). Not 1.75mm which is the other standard and that will not work.
Underextrusion is a complicated problem with many possible causes:
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#underextrusion
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Do you mean Ultimaker 2 Plus?
What material are you trying to print with?
What settings are you using?
What nozzle are you using?Is it a new machine, an old one, something inbetween?
Has the printer worked fine before?
Does it happen with all prints or just this particular one?
What steps have you tried so far to troubleshoot?
In short, we need a lot more info to be able to help.
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Yes, it will print at that size. Cura is metric, so if you're not sure you converted it to metric or not that should be the first thing you check. Alternatively you can scale it within Cura.
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So let me get this straight. You have a five year old printer, so four years out of warranty. You modified it by attaching something it was not built for which caused it to fail and now you're pissed they don't give you a mainboard for free and spend time to figure out what broke when you messed around with it? Don't you see how unreasonable this is?
You're also warning people not to post things that might show that you've broken your printer by misusing it so you can still abuse the warranty and get free parts for it?
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I think what he meant was to change the number of "Outline/Perimeter Shells" to get rid of that infill in the middle. Adding one more shell might make it so that you get just solid wall lines.
That said, I wouldn't worry about the printer failing because of this. But for speed and noise reduction it's nice to get rid of these kinds of movements.
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UM2 compatible parts
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Many of the parts are the same, but not all (sorry, I don't have a list I can share). Your local reseller should be able to help you get the parts you need. They might not have them all listed in the store but they'll be able to get them for you.