IRobertI
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Posts posted by IRobertI
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Hmm, sorry to hear that. I think the most likely culprit is the collet. Theoretically it could be an issue with the bowden tube being too thin but it's very unlikely I would say. I know there were a few cases of that in the past but that was several years ago, haven't seen any issues with the bowdens like that lately.
I don't know how likely it is that all collets are affected. What you could do as a test is to swap one of the collets from the head with the collet from the feeder. I think in all cases I've seen, the bowden tube has come loose at the feeder end, never at the head, so it should be safe to try. -
That's called a "Brim" and helps the model stay stuck to the platform which can help prevent warping. If you want to disable it, the setting you're looking for is "Build Plate Adhesion Type". I recommend "Skirt" rather than "None" to make sure the nozzle is properly primed.
Also, since only the front part of your model got the skirt it indicates that the rest of the model (the "BUX" part) is floating above the platform. You might want to look into fixing that before printing as it will very likely lead to a failed print since it will have very poor, if any, adhesion to the bed. -
Normally it doesn't happen and there are thousands upon thousands of Ultimaker printers using these collets without issue. However, a while back a few bad collets snuck into production. The problem with these is that the tiny little metal teeth inside don't stick out far enough so they don't properly bite into the bowden tube which can cause this issue. Since these collets aren't individually tracked it's very difficult to know which printers _may_ be affected by this issue. Thankfully it's an easy fix if and when the problem shows up.
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45 minutes ago, scottymonster said:
It's more than broken, it's breaking my machines. I have hotends running wild or not running at all. They are flying off the back and front of the bed, slamming into each other stopping in the middle of a print and releasing all the filament back out of the top of the extruder. 4.9.1 really bit but 4.10 is horrible. Thank God I saved 4.8. it somewhat works decent. Back to the drawing board on that one. Holy cow.
The layer view has nothing to do with this. If you're seeing abnormal movement of the print head I suggest you start a new topic regarding that. And make sure you share as much info as possible, such as a project file, what printer you're using etc.
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This is a problem with your coupling collet for the bowden tube (the little round piece that holds the bowden in place in the feeder). Get in contact with your reseller to get a new one and you should be good to go.
Your flow sensor is fine, the filament is still moving through the feeder normally so the sensor is seeing normal movement.
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10 minutes ago, Rays98GoVols said:
Amazingly even though they are Crealitys best selling Printers, they are printers that Ultimaker seems to think do not Exist.
They might know they exist, they might not, but as the name of the software implies, "Ultimaker Cura", it is primarily geared towards Ultimaker printers. Ultimaker are kind enough to also add support for other brands of printers, but it's not their highest priority to make sure each and every printer from every maker is available, and it's a bit unreasonable to expect it. Now, if there's a bug preventing renaming a printer (an issue that would be independent on what printer you happened to have added), that's a different thing and should of course be looked into.
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Cura works in millimeters, are you sure you didn't accidentally export at the wrong scale from your CAD program?
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That is the correct type of screw but someone has opened and re-assembled the feeder incorrectly. The head of the screw should be on the inside of the feeder to function correctly.
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What does the layer view look like in Cura, does that match the shape of the model? I'm betting it does.
This feels more like a printer issue, like an error with the z-axis such as having the wrong step setting for the z-axis. Knowing what type of printer you have will probably help.
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You have checked "Spiralize Outer Contour", that's why it's behaving the way it is. Uncheck that and things should go back to normal 🙂
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Thank you for the file, however, what you have posted is the gcode-file which is the last stage of the process. Please attach an STL-file or preferably a project file. To save a project, load the STL you're trying to print, make adjustments to settings and then choose File -> Save Project. That file will include both the STL as well as all the settings you've made, that way we can check what might be wrong.
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Without a screenshot and/or the STL (or even better, the project file) it's almost impossible to answer that question I'm afraid.
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Also, there's no need to save the gcode and then load it in cura again to check. Simply go over to the "Preview" tab (top center of the screen) and you can see what the slice looks like. It will also allow you to change to a different colour scheme ("Line type") to better see exactly what's going on.
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The problem with cookie cutters came up just the other day. More than likely the walls are too thin to print with the settings/nozzle you are using.
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2 hours ago, EngineeringGuy said:
No one replied to my post, so I kind of abandoned this site as not active... sorry!
The forum is very active. But it is the official forum for Ultimaker, so in general there are more Ultimaker users here who are less likely to know how to modify "third party" printers.
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Is your nozzle small enough to print those thin features in the model? It's most likely that the walls of the actual lemon shape are too thin to be printed with your current settings. When I slice it using a 0.4mm nozzle most of the shape is removed because it's too small.
A quick ugly "fix" is to increase the setting "Horizontal expansion" to make the features slightly fatter, but it's better to adjust in CAD.
I also got a warning that the model is not water tight so it might need to be repaired as well.
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It might not be the most elegant solution, but what I usually do when something is acting weird like this in Cura, I just nuke the entire settings folder. Looks like you've already found that folder, but in case someone else sees this the easiest way to get to it is to open Cura and then go to Help->Show Configuration Folder.
Close Cura and then select everything in that folder and delete it. This will cause Cura to re-create all the setting files from scratch which will usually fix things. Of course this will also remove any custom settings you have done.
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What error are you referring to? If you mean the red colour that is shown in this screenshot, that is normal. If you choose the "Line type" colour scheme in layer view, the shell will be shown in red.
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The message "There are no layers to show..." is because you have either not loaded a model yet, or because you have not clicked the blue "Slice"-button on the lower right of the window. The model has not been turned into gcode yet, so the preview-mode has nothing to work with.
This video shows how to print with two colours. It's a little old now and the interface has changed slightly but I think you'll be able to figure it out:
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Settings -> Printer -> Manage Printers -> Machine Settings -> Origin at Center
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I think we're going to need more information than "it doesn't work" in order to be able to help you. What exactly isn't working, does it not extrude at all? Does it not extrude enough? Is it not sticking to the bed? Is the print quality not up to the standard you expect? Pictures of failed prints?
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It's not listed on the page, but more than likely this is 1.75mm filament since it's mentioned as being Makerbot filament. So it will not work on any current Ultimaker printer as they all use 2.85mm.
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If you go to System -> Maintenance -> Diagnostics -> Limit switches, does the indicator for the Z-switch get an "X" in it? And does it go away when you manually grab the platform and pull it up?
If not, you're either dealing with a broken switch, a bad solder joint of the wires attached to the switch itself or a bad connection to the mainboard. If you have access to a multimeter you can probe the connector for continuity and see if it gets continuity when the switch is pressed, that would verify that the switch is physically ok or not.
Ultimaker 2 Massive Printer-Head Temperature Fluctuations
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
The 2+ head uses a more powerful heater and a slightly different PT100-sensor. You might need to do a PID tuning on it. Unfortunately I don't have a link with instructions ready to go but I know it has been talked about on the forums before so search for something like "PID autotune" or "PID tune" will probably get you pointed in the right direction.