LePaul
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Posts
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3D Prints
Posts posted by LePaul
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Well it turns out my Academic Version expired 2 weeks ago, so when i contact SW about renewing/upgrading, I will ask about Win10
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Oh no. I have SW 2014 Academic and upgraded to Windows 10 last week.
I wonder if it will run?
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Google Sketch Up is what I have use a few times for small parts. There's some good YouTube tutorials on how to use it, Google has video tutorials and I think even Lynda.com has training as well.
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or just kick some sense into the printer
I was thinking the same thing...maybe a kick/dent like the other printer might help
Just a shot in the dark, wondering about a partially plugged nozzle. Maybe an atomic pull (
) ?What filament are you using?
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I'm trying to give the new format some time to evolve.
But yes, now that I am visiting more often, I am surprised how the forum traffic is not what it used to be a year ago.
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What labern said, you'll see and hear when the shafts need it!
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Lot's of good ideas mentioned.
Any chance you can video record the movement, sliding the print head around and the trouble spots?
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Ok, so I'm not crazy, it isn't enabled
Perhaps disable the option until it is available?
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Get the sewing machine oil and lubricate the rods.
I forgot to do so after 6 months of disuse. While it worked, it was NOISY!
I just use a small piece of cotton (cotton ball), dribble some oil onto it and work it around all sides of the rod. You'll notice you clean some debris off. Again, just a little goes a long way! Disable the steppers and slide the print head around.
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What do the bushings in the slider block look like? If the shaft is straight, something in there must be causing that rise?
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I used to have email notifications when a reply/comment was posted on a thread I was following
I checked my settings here on Ultimaker and they point to my email address, which i made sure was correct.
I have the "Follow your topic and receive reply notifications" checked in the topics I follow (including this one!)
Is there an issue with the email notifications? They aren't getting hit by my spam filter so I wanted to see if they are actually going out.
Thank you.
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I guess I miss the old format
This "pretty" version rubs me much as Windows 8 did....why screw up what was a functional interface and turn it into a portal experience at every click?
I visit a lot of forums that use platforms like vBulletin board and other variations. I can use TapTalk to go into those while mobile.
I'm sure you guys are trying to make it better. I'm waiting patiently =)
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I'm in Maine and interested.
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I'm not sure how enthusiastic I am about printing that mod for the stepper motor
What's about dual fans? I see the U2 has them, is there any advantage to the UMO having them?
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Well the electronics upgrade is part of the Ultimaker Original upgrade package.
Someone mentioned upgrading the fans, from one on the left side to copying what the U2 has (on each side).
I know someone had better pulleys available but I have yet to hear from that person.
What's the Olsson block? New hip hop band?
I admit I surf here often but don't always catch what's available for 'factory approved' upgrades.
I'm hoping to improve print quality all around.
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I'm doing a little "thinking out loud" and debating whether to upgrade my existing Ultimaker to the UMO+ (heated build plate + electronics updates) or the Ultimaker 2.
The financial side of my brain is tempted by upgrading to the heated build plate offered by the upgrade option. It isn't a terribly difficult upgrade to install based on the documentation I have seen. And the heated platform would give me the ability to use some of the impressive ColorFabb XT materials
However I keep looking at the Ultimaker 2, wishing I had bought that all along (it came out 10 days after I bought my kit, non-refundable!).
If I go with the Ultimaker 2, I would go for the Extended Size since there are some larger sized prints I would like to print.
Another factor that has me leaning to the U2 is the noise my Ultimaker makes while printing. It works well but they do make a lot of noise doing so! (Mostly from the extruder feeder) The printer resides in the basement. It was too noisy for my sleep!
As I re-read this, I think I may have answered my own question!
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Was the build plate temperature bug in the UMO fixed?
The bug where it would try to heat the bed if it wasn't manually set to zero? Yes.
Yes, that's the one!
The download page refers Ultimaker Original owners to a different version for firmware. I'm struggling to find documentation (just executables/setup) on what is in each version (change history/notes)? I'd like to know if I am current with firmware updates to my Ultimaker Original.
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Was the build plate temperature bug in the UMO fixed? Or do we still need to do the manual fix?
Thanks!
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Same here.
Gee, and I thought she only loved me. (Printed broken heart)
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I'm getting spam messages in my Private Messages here.
Please let me know whom to report this to. There's no means to flag a message as spam, from what I could see in the editor
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As an Ultimaker Original owner, who has had some struggles along the way, my advice would be the Ultimaker 2. Heated built plate, many improvements over the original (quieter!) and much more.
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Good tips....I'll try slower and if i can get the extruder to play nice under 200C
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Hi
I was reviewing some Tips and Tricks and have a few questions.
I've been lowering my print temperature to about 200-208C and keeping the print speed at 45-50. (travel speed 150). I'm still seeing a lot of stringing, especially on prints that have multiple objects.
I am printing with Ultimaker PLA blue (2.85mm)
I seem to have trouble with extruding material if I go below 200, thus why I am finding myself in the 208 C range
Extraction is enabled. No heated bed plate
Using the 15.06 version of CURA
Should I print faster and hotter? Say 220C and double the print speed to 100?
Print one object at a time?
I'd try lower and slower but, again, trouble extruding when i go lower in temp
Thanks!
Anyone used MatterHackers 3.00MM PRO SERIES PLA ?
in Coffee corner
Posted
I bought some black 3mm Pro Series Black and was thinking about giving it a try. Pro series is supposed to be tighter tolerances and the print temps looked lower than what I am used to...
The primary differences between the PRO and the standard are:
The PRO Series has slightly tighter tolerances (±0.05mm vs. ±0.07mm) and more precise ovality.
2.The PRO filament is more opaque in certain colors (i.e. red and blue are going to be fully opaque in the PRO and more translucent in the standard, whereas you won't see a massive difference in a color like black).
3.PRO Series is made in the USA.
I have an Ultimaker Original and thought it would be fun to try....but again, curious if someone else has used it already and what their opinion was
(And I'm trying to liven up the forum a bit!)