LePaul
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Posts posted by LePaul
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I've had great luck with the included silver-gray
The https://www.ultimaker.com/products/pla-blue is so shiny..I've had a few good prints with it but there's something to be said for a more subtle color!
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I had the same thought with flexible PLA. It would be great if this material could be included in a dual material print.
I have read somewhere in the forum that a number of Ultimaker users discontinue using the dual extrusion extension - maybe this is because, in the long run, just printing with two colours is not fascinating enough for the additional efforts? (You can also paint your objects ...). However, combining different material properties in one print (by type or nozzle-specific settings) opens up a new world of possibilities.
Well, I have the second extruder kit but to be honest, the prints I have seen done with different colors looked more like a "marble" effect than distinctly different colors. I knew it was experimental when I bought the upgrade kit and looking forward to see what comes about
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Do you have a modified print head? At first I thought you had a Ultimaker original based on the print head then noticed the wood bed.
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Not sure if this is old news or not, but I found it quite interesting...
http://www.3dprinterworld.com/article/mold3d-showcases-diy-supports-with-zbrush
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You are pretty really, really fast!
I know when I crank mine up that fast, Bowden tubes pop out
For an aircraft model with that level of detail, I'd slow it way down, set temp to 220 and walk away for a few hours (Or as RONCO commercials say "Set it and Forget it!")
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Its an Ultimaker original and usually the fan doesnt run on the first layer
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The other day, after leveling the bed, I started a print at 210C (PLA)
The first layer went on like this: . .... . .. .... .... ....
Rather than the usual: ______________________
I hadn't changed anything with the PLA, the extruder.....just the temp.
Too cold? It eventually built up some layers and printed ok.
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I found, thanks to the assistance of GR5, that setting the print speed down to 30-40 area, most of my problems go away. I print mostly at 220-230 since the printer is in the basement...but I printed a part that had some stringers yesterday, so I think it may be time to lower the temp some too. Off to try 210!
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I've almost used up my entire spool of Ultimaker silver PLA on my Ultimaker (Original) printer. As I have learned more about my printer and the art of selecting the right speeds and temperatures, I thought I would inquire about different materials and brands.
I know PLA isn't super strong and for most of the things I am working with, that hasn't been a big issue. But now I am getting into some projects were more strength is better. Since I do not have a heated platform and ABS isn't an option until Ultimaker offers such upgrades, I was curious about the other materials I have seen on PrintedSolid.com and elsewhere.
The woodfill looks amazing for certain parts where the wood texture would be ideal
What about the Taulman nylons?
The colorFab XT?
I'd like to hear what's worked for other Ultimaker owners and any tips they wish to share!
Thanks!
Paul
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I've been trying to replicate a Module 1.0 15mx15m rack, since they aren't available here in the USA (and wow, shipping from the UK for a $9 part!)
Ultimaker Original, PLA, 220C and speed of 40. I wish the rack edges came out better.
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Would love to build me own, but with so many options where do you start? Linking it into the ultimaker seems the best way but does anybody have a definitive shopping list if i want to go down the silicon mat heater option.
If it is going to be early part of this year than i will probably wait.
Well that's my thought too.
Even if it doesn't plug in directly to the UM, if known-good device exists we can add to our machine, I'm all for using it.
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Sigi, what material? PLA? ABS?
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I'm using the 2.83 inch (Scotch brand) painter's tape and that's what got peeled upwards.
I wipe down the surface of the tape with rubbing alcohol and allow a few mins to evaporate.
I have no problems with print sticking...almost too much! I have to gently lift under the tape most times to get the part free. Many times, I have to soak the bottom of the part in rubbing alcohol for 15 mins and gently razor off the tape. Its getting to be a pain!
But I'm certain that big part was sticking very, very well!
The glass looks interesting
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Is there a PDF/DXF of the build plate so a glass maker could make one out of glass?
I'd love to print on a heated surface but we're waiting on Ultimaker for that option
Any brand wood glue better than the other? What's the ratio/recipe for such a thing
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I thought I would revive this thread a little...
What's the word on updates/upgrades for the original Ultimaker?
With the release of the UM2 and its native support for a heated bed and other features, I am in hopes new stuff is pending for the Original?
I would really really like to retire the Painter's Tape and rubbing alcohol !
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I can't upload a ZIP file or STL file to the gallery. Hmm.
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I was printing at a speed of 40 and the temp set to 230
With the printer in the basment and the temp down there about 50, I have had good results with 230 so far.
Let me upload the part, I don't have the mixmesh version but i am really curious how others would approach printing it.
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Anyone else run into this?
I was making a piece that was about 7 inches long, 100% fill (geared rack so it needs the strength) As it got about 70% done you could see the part was pulling up on the tape and while not ripping it, it was lifted a half inch, ruining the task
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I guess I am missing the big lesson, slower print, lower temp?
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Maybe this was covered already but...
If you are printing in PLA, which softens in water, wouldn't introducing water to remove the PVA be harmful to the print? Or are you referring to printing in ABS, etc instead?
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I haven't upgraded Marlin since the printer arrived in September.
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Oh....its running now....false alarm
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I am used to seeing the fan always running on my Ultimaker. Its doing a job now, no fan runninng.....normal? Its still doing the brim...made sure in Cura cooling fan is enabled.
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Appropriate plastic parts, right?
I'd like to see how that model looks in ABS. I should have printed it full size but didn't feel like running a 4-5 hour print
Shipping charges
in Coffee corner
Posted
I do a lot of shipping for the aluminum parts I produce and sell to fellow robot builders.
Here in the United States, the US Postal Service offers flat-rate services for certain box sizes ("If it fits, it ships") but there is also limited tracking. But that's from here.
Receiving from other countries, such as Ultimaker or when I contract out the fabrication of a part to Europe or Asia, DHL has proven over and over again to be the best. Cheaper than FedEx and UPS most times, I have never had a DHL shipment go missing or get damaged.
So while I may not always like the costs of shipping...DHL has always done right for me