LePaul
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3D Prints
Posts posted by LePaul
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It will only run on Windows 8, in case you hadn't caught that. I have 8.1 and am going to toy with it a bit, try to make due with the Kinect I have
Looks like I need to find and print a tripod adapter
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Sure!
Here's a start
The accessories are part of the mold and not removable
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I may need to invest in the newer model it seems?
The latest is
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/kinectforwindows/meetkinect/default.aspx
This is the model I have
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-L6M-00001-Kinect-for-Windows/dp/B006UIS53K
I dug around a bit and wanted to see what the differences were. Seems Infrared and a few things?
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/kinectforwindows/meetkinect/faq.aspx
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I believe Kinect Fusion can not only do image processing, but it can also generate a mesh that you can export as a .stl file. Are you using a Kinect V1 or V2? Microsoft just released the adapter cable for the Kinect V2 to allow the xbox one Kinect V2 to be connected to a PC. I want to try this as well, but simply have not had the time. Below is the link for Kinect Fusion, let me know what you think of the software if you give it a shot, but I think its probably what you are looking for.
http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dn188670.aspx
I couldn't find the actual download for Kinect Fusion?
As you can tell from my profile pic, I have quite the Batman suit. I'd like to scan the belt, which was molded in rubber and either 3D print one or CNC from lightweight aluminum
Would be fun to try! -
Just curious....why no fan?
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First, has anyone done this?
I have searched around a lot and found numerous programs that will do scanning but I haven't seen any that will generate an OBJ or STL
I have a Windows Kinect and was curious if this might be handy to scan some objects for printing
Thanks for the help!
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I've had some really nice prints that need clean up to help remove those fine lines (0.1 prints). The Smooth On product looks interesting.
I've also seen a lot of various talk about using rock tumblers with a variety of materials inside. Most of those discussions were based on prints using the Bronzefill to bring out the shine.
But on regular PLA prints, I am really curious what people have used successfully for everyday prints, such as these...
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Isn't there one on YouMagine?
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Maybe this was mentioned elsewhere but my biggest gripe with viewing the YouMagine gallery is so few results per page. 9 items (3 x 3) is just too few.
Like most online stores and catalogs, either give the viewer the option to increase the results/items per page or let it continue to build, such as the "other major website for 3D printing content"
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Thanks guys, I appreciate your feedback.
The print came out OK, I am printing in my (unheated) basement and the temperature stays about 55F I've found printing under 200C doesn't go very well, so 210 seems to be the happy number.
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Thanks for the YouTube video of the polishers. It looked like the stainless steel idea, while quieter, made for a lot of clean up to remove that black dust.
How would those work on regular PLA prints, I wonder?
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I'm also noticing the "dotted line" , so wondering if the retraction isn't enough or...something?
I have it at the defaults for High Quality printer, lowered the temp to 212 a bit ago once the brim was done.
Note top, going from right to left
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All calibrated on the bed, printing at 215C
FIrst layer seems to develop a "booger" and drags it around (see background)
Notice how this started, first layer seemed to dot away on top? Ideas? Just blue tape being what it is? Rest went fine
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http://www.smooth-on.com/index.php?cPath=1429
The video on the site looks very impressive on smoothing out (pardon the pun) those tiny print lines on prints
I'm curious if anyone has used this product and how it they liked it?
Paul
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I get that with my Ultimaker Original when trying to print closer to 200C. For my printer, it seems like the best temperature is 208-210 for most of my prints Most of what I print is small stuff with high detail (little statues for my friend's kids). I've tried printing at the lower temps based on the pictures of stringing I have seen at higher temps and faster speeds....but find a few degrees warmer works best on my printer using Ultimaker silver pla filament
Good luck!
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But is anyone using the dual extruder in the original Ultimaker with great success?
If they've made some major breakthrough, I am really curious what and if that will filter into the existing Ultimaker
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Are you using the 1.75m material? Everytime i look for this material I can't seem to find 3mm
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(I use dishwashing agent which includes lactide acid that leads to a very nice adhesion for PLA).
I hope this helps you to understand why the firmware is as it is and to enjoy successful printing directly on glass.
Are you using a dish detergent, such as 'Dawn' or the like? I'm intrigued! I mean, could our prints smell lemony-fresh?
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Yes, temperature is a fickle beast. It depends on so many factors; print speed (or rather, volume/sec to account for layer height as well), filament colour, filament batch, filament manufacturer, variations in temperature sensors, moisture content etc. It's impossible to give a definitive answer.
True, I just tried a print at 190 and the PLA wouldn't stick, so I notched up the heat and tried again...212 was the magic number on this print (a small cat statue) Once I got the first few layers down, I eased it back to 208 and going to see how that works. I know the bed is level and fresh blue tape. Used the paper method...adjust bed til there is friction between print head and paper. I'll let you know in 2 hours
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I really enjoyed watching this documentary.
I REALLY like how to pointed out what a hypocrite Bre @Makerbot is. I was a big follower of Makerbot up til they ditched Open Source and went closed. That's when I found Ultimaker
I have been really impressed by the Form1 Labs guys as well. If they had a bigger print volume, I might be interested in buying one of those printers in the future.
What did you think of it?
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Great topic and link
I've been dusting off my Ultimaker....i was laid off 3 weeks ago so while I await calls from Interviews and so on...I thought I would get back into printing
One topic that I continue to find interesting is temperature. I think the sweet spot for my printer seems to be 210 but I want to keep bringing that down. I have that stringing-temperature picture gr5 posted a while back and I think 190 was the best result temp....at least with the silver PLA I ought from Ultimaker
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I found a really neat part on Thiniverse for mounting the IKEA LED light strips.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:346378
I am having trouble sorting out the best way to print the Controller Mount piece, Cura can't seem to generate the support material for it if you set up the thick part to be the bottom. The portion that would "hook" into the Ultimaker needs some help
I updated Meshmixer to the latest version and for the life of me, I can make a part lay flat on its grid. I can move it all over the place but figuring out where the grid stops/starts...well....I can't sort it out.
Chalk this up as a Newbie question I suppose...!
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I haven't upgraded my Ultimaker firmware since receiving it last year.
I believe most of the upgrades to date have been for the Ultimaker 2 but was curious if there was a post/page that showed the history of the firmware versions and what was changed or improved (much like you would see on HP, etc)
Thanks!
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Actually I have the student (academic) version of SolidWorks 2014
I may have to try OpenSCAD too
Using a Microsoft Kinect to scan image for printing?
in Coffee corner
Posted
There's about 8 of them! Not sure which to toy with first
Oh, per that Instructables link....Kinect Fusion Explorer WPF