peggyb
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Posts posted by peggyb
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here is my backup:
straight print, no fill, just walls
13.09 and 13.10 are giving the same results.
13.11 also effects the inside, as this being a usb-stick cover, it didn't fit in there. The 13.09 did fit perfectly.
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are all your prints sliced with the same Cura version?
I noticed that the Cura 13.11 behaves different than the versions before concerning the z movement.
The head moves outside the surface.
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i think you mean the z-scar, which seams to be back in Cura 13.11.
For some reason the nozzle moves outside the layer, leaving a scar that is visible along the whole surface.
It was not present in 13.10
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but..
how difficult would it be to mix aluminum filing wit a binder just the way sawdust is mixed with a binder to get the wood filament, or like alumide (mix of nylon and aluminum)?
just thoughts of a noob
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do you have other filament to try?
sometimes its just the brand/color that is more difficult than another.
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I think the gradient pieces you mean are the prints from Colorfabb. They use the transition material when they change colors in there production. Unfortunately they are not for sale...
I use a lot of colors in a print, putting them into the bowden before it starts printing. But this one was difficult because I had to 'reload' the bowden twice with the 'pause at z', it can print about one centimeter height with one load.
And the pla spreads a little on the cut, making it wider, so it is more difficult to move in the bowden.
Also noticed that the color transition from dark to lighter color gets more gradient than from light tot dark. Darker colors are of coarse
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it works!
always use the brim, so you can tape the brim to the bed (for difficult objects), especially on the side of the fan.
the wood glue worked best for me. the gluestick left a thicker layer (visible in the print) and is more difficult to spread evenly.
when printing on glass, you have to adjust your z-height, to compensate for the thickness of the glass. I printed this little piece (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/z-material-add-on) and put it on the lever that touches the z-switch.
When your done with the glass , or whatever, remove it and continue printing on tape...
You can make one for every thickness you need. After printing, check if the height corresponds with the material, file/sand a little if necessary. Test it with homing: if your nozzle is too high above the glass, remove a little of the top and test again.
Store the z-material add-on on the side of the frame: it is the same thickness...
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what also helps a lot, I think, is to put a strip of tape over the brim as soon as it is finished. Especially on the fan side.
With solid pieces, like buildings, I put on duc tape all around. Be careful that you don't push to hard on the build plate, the springs will give in and will leave uneven deposition of the plastic.
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you can set the flow higher in Cura and after the first layer, dial it back in the UC...
you're going to watch the first layer anyway...
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will the fix also resolve the stringing between object and support?
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I use the European stuff, Dylon. The powder works best, heated up just below boiling. Thin printed parts just need dipping, count to ten.... Just check by rinsing and see how it looks.
The sls printed nylon, which is thicker, needs from 10 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on the color.
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if you are using a mac,
use the 13.04 version of Cura
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do not copy anything,
just retype the whole line
did work for me
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in 123d design this function is under 'combine' and then choose 'join'
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these scans have really nice details!
Is that only due to the lenses or also a different sensor than the Kinect?
When I make scans with the Kinect it loses a lot of detail in the eye, nose, ears and mouth.
Hair and clothes come out fine.
Skanect (mac) is a nice program with quick restoring and reconstruction features.
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put the controller on the right side...
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then you should have ordered the blueish-white....... :eek:
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I did help an architect to print his maquette. It was a surprise for me that it could print without support with tons of overhangs!
To prevent the warping of the corners, I taped over the brim after it was printed, that helped a lot..
The final print took 24 hours, printed slowly, 25mm/sec to get the collums nice and clean.
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what also works:
print with a brim, and tape some tape or duck tape over it when its done.
don't push too hard on the build plate!
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what is that band around the extruder? It looks like the black lever is not all the way down in the slot...
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it did work for me with a tube insert: od 3mm, id 2mm, just put it inside the original and let it stick out a bit so you can pull it out again.
For me the spring filament clamp didn't work any more, the wheel didn't reach the filament enough.
So I used the old clamp, opened it , and put an extra piece of plastic in between the split, so it stands out a little extra.
I must say that I didn't use it for a longer time yet, and I didn't use retraction, so there is no gaurantee...
Scott did a video:
http://scottmayson.com/project/ultimaker-1-75mm-filament-conversion/
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look at:http://blog.ultimaker.com/2013/06/24/ulti-evening-first-part-david-braam-on-cura/
starts at about 15 minutes...
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or,
1. use Prepare/Preheat PLA
2. do something else till pre-heat is done
turn the wooden gear manually, until you feel the pla coming out smoothly,
remove the extruded pla under the nozzle.
(by doing that, you are sure that there is no blockage in your hot end)
3. load print gcode from card selection menu
4. begin print and observe as PLA begins to flow normally.
brim or skirt are always good, depending on your model
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or you could try cure 13.06..
under the expert settings: fix horrible
Daid showed us that you can try different options, A or B, and the other settings
then check your layers if it worked, or not..
don't forget to uncheck them if you're done
diagonal line in first layer (and every layer next)
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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but this doesn't work for the first layer, is it?