futurejames

Well in that case, put a "me too" for richard's suggestion. Would movement be in the firmware too? I've been trying to level the bed with just the Ulticontroller, and it takes forever just to move the head. If yes, please put my suggestion on the list too.

You're working on Ulticontroller now?

Can't it be both? I use machine oil on X & Y. I found it works better than grease. I still use grease on Z though.

I don't have a solution; I just popped in to say I have similar Sketchup problems. I started using OpenSCAD to cut down on my swearing.

And Team Ultimaker Canada grows! Welcome aboard.

I've actually printed this and it currently works right now. I had to use pliers to get the pins in. To be honest the regular "screwless heart gears" are much better.

Be a good adapter to make, hollow cylinder (hair dryer end) to slot (slot under bed). Gotta print that in ABS though, PLA will just melt.

That's it exactly, the minimum travel distance makes all the difference. But like you said, there's no such thing as perfect. I don't confine myself to one type of screwdriver, so I don't mind using multiple slicers and software. Going back on topic, I've shown several people the picture in the original post. Everyone who sees it is really amazed at the quality an Ultimaker can pull off for, for a fraction of the price of a Dimension printer.

When we were talking about printed ones, we were talking about bowden clamps like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864

When I got a new bowden tube from Ultimaker, I followed the steps of putting excess bowden through and having the teeth really bite in later. I also used a printed bowden clamp (on hot end and filament feeder end). Hasn't budged since and I've burned through at least 1.5kg since then.

Yes I tried that. Still shakes a lot. I have a screw setup for adjusting the Z stage, it shook so much that screw fell out. I'm actually really grumpy at KISSlicer today. I had it set for destringing and did a simple plate. But KISSlicer kept on doing retract over and over and over (like even doing it to move a few mm over, over the same part, just going over infill). It failed on a 6 hour print halfway through. When I pulled the filament out it was all chewed to hell and back. Doing 8-12 retractions over the same object, without going over open holes, is too much! When I get back home later I'll sic Cura on it. I get the feeling it'll print just fine, even with retraction set to similar values as KISSlicer.

That's kind of funny, I always thought Kisslicer circular infill was making my machine shake like crazy, I almost considered clamping it to the table. Not to knock on KISSlicer. I use it and Cura about the same amount now. Its like having a ninja and a pirate. :twisted:

I know both Cura and KISSlicer support retraction. I haven't used RepG in awhile.

I think the things you are looking for is combing and retraction. Retraction: Pulls on the filament while going over open areas. Comb: Avoids going over the open areas.

US only I might add -- they won't even ship to Canada. :evil:

IIRC if you buy a new tube from Ultimaker they also give these clips. You can also try just mailing support and asking, they might be able to help. Or print out a bowden clamp from Thingiverse.

Have you tried using a soldering iron with the filament as your solder? If you do, let me know how it works. If you haven't by the weekend, I may try the experiment.

My last shipment (Ulticontroller) went on hold twice. I assume "Shipment on Hold" means things are busy or they have to look at it first or something.

Did you guys just toss it in the oven, spool and all?

Actually this is something I have been wanting for some time, a more portable printer. It doesn't matter if its not large, if I have a larger print I already have an Ultimaker. I just got access to a laser cutter so I'll be really watching this with interest. Might even give me something to do with my spare Ultimaker hot end.

Helm: I was actually just looking at your new part on thingiverse . That's a pretty slick trick, having that nut in the PEEK. How long have you been using the new tube? Mine printed great at first but then quality started to suffer. Are you using PFA or PFTE? I would be really curious as to any data you have. Next time my bowden blocks up I wanted to switch to my 4mmID tube again, I'd really like to try your modifications. I erally wish I had 2 of these, so I could play around with one and still print great on the other.

Finally picked one up. Haven't had a chance to play with it too much yet. Initial impressions: - Its ridiculously simple to assemble. - I love the fact that everything is instant, as opposed to the delay in sending commands from a computer. - I love being untethered from the computer. My home office is pretty crammed, so the prospect of moving the printer is nice. Also when I start experimenting with ABS, I can put the printer (and the stink) in my garage instead. Just the electrical savings I'll get (no more leaving the computer on because a print is going on) I'm sure this thing will pay for itself in no time!

That's what ended up happening to me. At first everything came out fine. Then later on I noticed the quality going down, especially on the walls. I keep meaning to go back and try some other modifications, but my new bowden from Ultimaker hasn't given me the opportunity yet (keeps working and hasn't plugged yet).

Hmm, now I know what I can do with that garden hose I needed to throw away. :twisted:

I ended up having leaks and putting ABS through ended up fixing it (and stinking up my office for awhile ). It would be really nice if this was documented in the Ultimaker documentation. I had no idea what the ABS was for until I was told here.