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fns720

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  1. I 'm using Fusion 360 since it became available on Mac. I was so happy when I read Autodesk will provide this great tool to hobbists for free. At that time Fusion 360's pricing statement page (http://fusion360.autodesk.com/pricing#) looked like this: Unfortunately after a year Fusion 360 asked me to install an update and after this release it did not let me in. When I started the application this dialog appeared: So if I wanted to access all my previous designs I had to "explore options": Where is the option to continue freely as a hobbist? I'm a software developer and a 3dprint fana
  2. Hi, I have a DIY heated bed connected to my Ultimaker 1 which uses a 100k EPCOS thermistor. I'm using this setup for ages but suddenly the TEMP3 connection on Ultimaker 1's board had stopped reporting temperature values. I checked the heated bed thermistor and it is fine (I'm using and EPCOS 100k for the hotend temp detection and even if I connect my heated bed thermistor to TEMP1 it shows a proper value). I also measured the voltage on TEMP3 and it's also correct = 4.97 V. I think something is wrong with the main board since neither the firmware nor the hardware parts are changed. D
  3. Ther are Micro-Fit 3.0 mm MOLEX connectors: Plastic receptacle part: 43645-0200 http://hu.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&langId=36&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=3076015&storeId=10162 Metal receptacle part: 43030-0007 http://hu.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&langId=36&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=2101869&storeId=10162 Plastic in-line part: 43640-0201 http://hu.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&langId=36&urlRequestType=Base&partNumbe
  4. I'm waiting for GeckoTek's spring steel build plate - I hope the proximity sensors will work on that coated steel plate. Meanwhile I updated the UBIS hotend mount design with a TL-Q5MC1 attachment: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ubisxultimaker-printhead-with-double-sided-45-fan-tl-q5mc1-proximity-sensor-mount
  5. In case if you'd like to use UBIS for ABS print: I added two big massive 45° fan mounts to Nick's UBIS carriage and uploaded the model to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ubisxultimaker-printhead-with-double-sided-45-fan-mount. ABS requires moderate cooling. I'm using two 40 mm fans and they are running on 65% power.
  6. After several months of fighting with ABS on Ultimaker original I think I found another source of the ABS layer bonding problem. I started to print couple of really small objects - the "needles" on this picture are ~5.5 mm thick, the length of the objects are ~25 mm: If I printed a single one with my usual settings, the entire object is strong and I almost couldn't break the needle from it by hand (item 2). But as soon as I start printing multiple of them the needles become too weak - some of them can break during the removal from the heated bed (item 1). This time, due to the shape of this
  7. Guys, I found the holy grail of printbeds: it's the PEI plastic. Here's a sample image - it's a 5 cm tall, relatively thin object from ABS, printed on a heated bed which was covered my a 2 mm PEI sheet: You won't need stinky ABS juice or hairspray anymore. You can order it from reprapsource. It seems expensive but I think it worth every penny to print ABS without kapton/juice/hairspray.
  8. It was not a good idea to block the direct air flow - I made some pictures to demonstrate the difference. The object lies on its back now but it was printed in a standing position (it's a phone cradle). Direct (unblocked) airflow - a smaller problem on the inner edge: Direct (unblocked airflow) - the same small annoyance from the other side, all the other parts are more or less acceptable: Blocked airflow - disgusting back side: Blocked airflow - ugly edges, bad "pillowing":
  9. @tsp42: you gave me an idea I'll push a piece of sponge into the fan to spread the air and will run a testprint during the night.
  10. @tsp42: I didn't, the fan blows directly to the bottom. I mounted the fan using http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21182.
  11. @MadOverlord: this fan mount looks nice, I'll try it out. Do you print ABS with this config?
  12. @Duesentrieb: my heated bed looks like a sandwitch: I'm using QU-BD's silicone heater with a 4 mm alu plate and a 3mm plain glass on top of it. ALU plate is just to mount the entire thing on Ultimaker's Z stage and to spread the heat evenly. I did not want to glue the heater to the bottom of the alu plate so I'm using two pieces of 3 mm glass stripes on the very bottom to hold them together by using a regular binder (I need two pieces of glass to hold the bottom because there's a bump in the middle of the heating pad where the wires come out). Here's how it looks: This silicone heater is qu
  13. Thanks Philip. I tried with 40/50% fan speed but the result is too brittle. I'm trying now with 5/15% and will tell you the results.
  14. I asked printrbot about UBIS hotend availability and they put 3 items on stock this morning. One more hotend left in their webshop - hurry!
  15. Thanks a lot @illuminarti, that's the problem - the Z axis starts to jam around a certain level. I have to fix this.
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