tomnagel
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Posts posted by tomnagel
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On 1/6/2022 at 3:19 PM, arj3090 said:
A follow up after much experimenting.... I ran several materials (PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU) using the CC 0.4 core to see if it could be used exclusively for everything (except PVA). All materials appeared to print just as well with the CC 0.4 as it did with the AA 0.4 until I got to the TPU. The TPU would partially print my object before repeatedly giving an out of material alarm. The first few layers worked fine, but then it seemed to just be spitting out small blobs of material and not a continuous flow. I tried several times with different settings, but the result was always the same. As soon as I swapped back to the AA 0.4 core, the print completed.
It appears there is some physical difference between the AA and CC cores.
Certainly there is a physical difference. The AA core has a brass nozzle, which has a better heat conduction than the hardened steel nozzle from the CC 0.4 core. For most materials, the difference may be acceptable, but TPU is more sensitive to small temperature variations.
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I don't think this is something that we can easily solve through this forum, you better contact your reseller.
Are picture 1 and 3 the same glass plate in the same orientation?
Picture 2 another plate, or maybe upside down?
My first guess would be an out-of-spec (unflat) glass plate.
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At the end of the printjob, the material is (normally) parked above the printcore in a process we call deprime. That deprime process takes a while (2-3 minutes?) , especially for PLA. It should not be interrupted.
From park position the filament can be uloaded without heating the printcore.The situation that the printer is idle, and the filament is still in the core is not a happy flow situation, and could occur when there was a power outage.
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The print indeed looks horrible.
What filament are you using?
What printing profile do you use in Cura? (Always start printing with the default profiles)
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Have you reached out to your reseller? They should be able to help you with this.
The cable to the printhead should be attached to one of the bowden tubes with clips. Are these clips missing on your printer?
Anyway: it cannot explain the ER65 problems, since the filament flow sensor is located in the feeder on the back of the printer.
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Can you describe what happens exactly? Does the machine give an error?
Which printer do you use? Is the material profile of the Luvocom material present on this printer?
It is a normal part of the finishing procedure that the printer retracts the material, cools down to a certain temperature, and then retracts the material more so that it breaks and forms a nice tip at the end of the filament.
Some materials cool down to below 100degC, which takes a while.
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The NFC antenna in the tag on Ultimaker materials is quite large. Most tags will not be picked up by the antenna in the spool holder.
The tags are not protected, and can be rewritten. So start with an original Ultimaker tag and try to write it
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You will quickly wear out your printcore, but worse is that also your feeder wheel will wear out, which will harm the performance for all materials.
For printing abrasive (filled) materials, you have to upgrade to an S3 or S5. These have hardened feeder wheels out of the box, and you’ll have to purchase a CC print core with a ruby nozzle.
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The newer firmware works with weak spring and with stiff spring. Replacing the spring is not necessary, but feel free to do so.
The behavior you describe is of course not how it should be. You may want to reach out to your reseller, they will be able to help you.How is your bed positioned? I always make sure the bottom of the glass plate is slightly (0.5mm or so) higher than the top of the alu at the front.
The screw on the back must be adjusted so that the bed is parallel to the gantry (I do that by manually raising the bed, and then manually move the printhead from front to back and making sure the nozzle / bed distance is equal)this procedure is seldomly necessary but the screws with the weaker springs may untighten themselves after some use
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That is really simple: put a sticker on the camera, and unplug the nfc reader on the back of your printer (that is the cable that runs to your spool holder).
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You can use the diagnostics menu to see what tags the NFC reader is detecting. If you install only the PLA spool on the printer, what does the diagnostics tell you?
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In firmware release 5.2, Active leveling has become a lot faster because only a part of the build plate is measured (the part that is printed upon)!
Model-based active leveling. We've boosted the efficiency of active leveling on the Ultimaker S5. Instead of probing the entire build plate, only the footprint of the model is measured before a print starts. Disabled print cores are skipped to speed up the process. To make use of this feature, prints need to be prepared using Ultimaker Cura 4.0 or above.
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In my Cura 4 it is on by default,and I think it has already been for quite some time now.
Could it be that you work with modified profiles, that are copied into new installations?
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So you try to move 1 inch, and the extruder actually moves 0.7 inch? So an error of 0.3 inch?
and what happens when you try to move the extruder 2 inch? Is the error linear with the length of the move?
I am asking because I don’t know a single cause that can influence the gain (stepspermm) without changing the hardware.
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@mark269, you say your Y-axis "is 7.62mm off". What exactly do you mean with that? If you have an (mechanically, and software-wise) unmodified UM2, using "steps per mm" to compensate for a dimensional error is not a good method.
First of all, to be sure: with the Y direction, you mean front to back right?
Could there be another reason that your Y dimension is not printing well? Is your printhead moving smooth if you move the printhead (by hand) around the buildplate surface? Are the shafts well oiled?
Are the pulleys screwed tight to the shafts?
Does the dimensional error scale with the size of your printed object?
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I recommend not to use just any glue stick, but the one supplied by Ultimaker. All glue sticks are not created equal.
A lot of effort was put into testing, and the Uhu sticks came out best. I’m not saying other sticks don’t work as well, but i’m Sure there are other glue sticks who definitely perform worse.
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have you tried this?
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23132-clean-the-print-cores
I have yet to see the first case where disassembly is necessary.
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18 hours ago, Jakeddesign said:
I suspect my issues are that my printer will run for several days, sit for a day, run some more...and so on. Not running continuously could be the difference. Additionally, I print a lot at .1mm layers, so maybe I am not moving enough support material though the nozzle.
I don't think so. The printers were operated normally, and there was a cooldown between printjobs. I don't think that a pause of a day between prints can cause issues other than PVA taking up moisture.
PVA should print reliably, this is tested very thouroughly for years now. If not, let's find out why not. There enough people here who can help, and your reseller should be able to help you as well.
Start with a clean BB nozzle, start with dry PVA filament, use Ultimaker filament, use Ultimaker Cura without changing printing parameters. If that does not work, please post pictures of what goes wrong.
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Under normal circumstances, it is absolutely not necessary to clean your BB nozzle every few days. We've done 2000h tests on 20 printers, with varying cleaning intervals. Our advice is to clean the BB nozzle after 400h of printing (hot and cold pulls). But even the few printers that printed the full 2000h without cleaning still printed fine.
However, cleaning is very important after incidents like empty spool, or entangled filament or any other issue that keeps the BB nozzle hot without any material flow. The PVA then burns in the nozzle, and the nozzle will clog. (a print where there is a very small amount of PVA on each layer could also cause this)
Of course this was all tested with Ultimaker PVA. Your mileage with other brands may vary.
And @kmanstudios is right: keep your PVA dry.
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Dimensional accuracy is a difficult subject. There are many many causes for inaccuracy. Some causes depend on temperature, some on the printing process parameters, some are in the mechanical tolerances on parts etc.
It is a topic that is being addressed within R&D, but I realise that does not help you now.
I would not advise to adjust the scaling of X Y and Z. That is too big of a simplification, and afterwards when you print objects with other dimensions your calibration will not work, and possibly make things worse.
My own experience is that often the inaccuracies are pretty reproducible. A 4 or 5mm big hole prints always 0.25mm smaller than in CAD. So I compensate for that in CAD.
You say you have measured inaccuracies up to 1.5mm. That is pretty extreme, and indeed can make parts unusable. Can you share an example of that? An STL and actual measurements, and/or a photo?
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I believe that when no material is set for an extruder, the nozzle stays cold during the active leveling.
But you should know that it is heated to flatten possible plastic remains below the nozzle. If those plastic remains are cold and hard, the outcome of the active leveling procedure will get an offset, causing the nozzle to be too high during printing.
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So the problem stayed with the same printer, after you switched the power supplies of 2 printers?
And you are using original Ultimaker Print Cores? Than I think you should contact your reseller. Your problem reproduces and it seems like a heater is out of specification, causing the overloaded power supply.
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Temperatures to get good adhesion are about 10 degrees higher for aluminium than for glass. For example, PC has a bed temperature of 120°C with alu.
UM2/3 cannot reach those temperatures because of power supply limitations.
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Hi gr5,
An outer diameter of the spool (G) of 102mm? You mean 201mm?
Material not flowing right - HELP
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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I find it difficult to judge the problem from your pictures, but in general I can say in the Ultimaker 2 printhead there is a teflon part that wears out. Have you replaced that in the last few years?
I had an ultimaker original with a similar part, and had to replace that every 2 years or so.