tomnagel
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Posts posted by tomnagel
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I think you should send it back. I would recommend to contact your reseller.
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Use infill meshes. Take care: this is not very easy, but once you get it...
A short how-to:
Unselect "keep models apart" and "drop models to build plate" in Cura preferences
Import a second object (for example a simple cube)
Put Cura in "custom mode"
Select the cube, and use the button "per object settings" on the left side
Select "Infill Mesh" and enable that setting
The cube now turns transparent gray.
Position the cube to overlap part of your model. It should overlap with the section that you want to change the infill for.
Also with "per object settings" select the option "infill density"
Set it to the desired value. All is more or less illustrated in the screenshot below
The picture shows a cube on the buildplate with infill 20%. Locally, with a rotated 2nd cube, the infill % is raised to 100%.
What happens is that the volume where the cube intersects with your object is locally sliced with different infill.
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Aha! Yes I now realize it pretty cleanly tears out thanks! Fist noob mistake yay.
So now I am super impressed with the print and my investment so far. Off to play more...
Glad to hear
. Reach out to this forum for more questions, there's a lot to be learned! -
I'm not sure which model you chose, but the Ultimaker robot has support for the hands built into the model. So the slicer does not need to add it.
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Is this one corner only? Or are other corners the same? If it is one corner only I think you are looking at the effects of z-seam.
Are you using the latest version of Cura? Improvements have been made in hiding the z-seam. You can control where it is put, and I think default it is hidden in an inside corner of your part.
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You might want to reconsider Ultimaker glass plates. In the beginning of this year, we have improved the specification of the glass (flatness), and improved the quality control at our supplier. Glass plates in our sales channels should be improved/good now.
Some background:
Float glass is very flat to begin with. It is then cut to shape, it gets c-edges and the corners are rounded or dubbed. After that, the glass goes into a tempering oven.
In this oven, the glass is transported on rollers. It goes back and forth in the oven, because if it would lie still, the shape of the rollers is imprinted on the glass. After the high temperature treatment, the glass is rapidly cooled. This causes high stress between the outside layer of the glass and the inside. This makes the glass stronger.
Unfortunately, there is a practical limit to how flat you can keep the glass in the tempering oven. So there will always be some remaining unflatness.
I'm convinced that our glass plates are now flat enough to ensure a good bed adhesion on the whole bed. Of course, you still have to follow all other instructions (clean plate, use glue, use adhesion sheets, ...) to maximise performance. (see ultimaker website).
The Neoceram glass that is mentioned in this topic has a flatness specification that is much worse than the glass that Ultimaker sells. Of course, it is usually better than the specification allows. But in the beginning of this thread it was claimed that the spec is very good. That is not true. (the D in the specification was mistakenly interpreted as the thickness, but it means the diameter of the glass)
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Not an answer to your question, but related: I think most (all?) plastics deform when a continuous force is applied. This is called creep.
In practice: if you bolt 2 parts together, your will see that after a while, the force between the parts will decrease due to creep. If this bolt was holding a lamp in a certain articulation, you might see it sags after a while. You have to retighten the bolt, and I think it will happen again and again.
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Here is a tip of how to remove an adhesion sheet from your buildplate. Don't know if that also works when your object is still attached.
This ABS guide says: "Please note that it may be easier to remove the 3D prints from the build plate if it is still slightly warm at approximately 40ºC."
Last but not least: do you really need ABS? What material properties do you find important?
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Several settings are different in the first layer, to optimise for bed adhesion. You will see that the top layer of your objects will look perfect, and will not have these waves.
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Active leveling might fail because the bed is set too high. After the bed has gone up at high speed, it starts the probing process where the bed goes up slowly. At start probe, there should be more than 0.5mm between bed and nozzle.
The right nozzle can be switched up and down with the lever on the side of the printhead. In the up position, the tip of the right nozzle is 1.5mm above the tip of the left nozzle. When it is down, it is 1.5mm lower.
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Changing the feeder pressure is never the right answer with the standard Ultimaker materials. How's your ambient conditions? PVA should be printed in an ambient of <28degC and <55%RH.
Next to Kristel's advice to clean the BB core, just to be sure, you may want to dry your PVA. You can do that in an household oven (but be sure it does not get too hot, use a meat thermometer to be sure), or put the spool on a hot build plate for a few hours. I'm not sure about temperatures and drying times, search the forum for that.
Or try a new spool of course, but I do realise those are costly.
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For most of the prints, Cura estimate is within a few % of the true printing time. But there seem to be cases where the difference is really large. @CovertLemon maybe you can provide us with a real world example, or maybe even more?
An STL and your gcode would really help.
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Yes, layer view should exactly tell you what your printer will be printing.
It is probably best to use your CAD program to increase the wall thickness. If that is not an option, you can use the Cura option "horizontal expansion" to increase the wall thickness. Use layerview mode to see how it impacts your model.
I notice in your picture of the filaments that you have not installed the PLA as designed. You should use the filament guide on position 1. It prevents the filament from interfering with the other spool.
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Your reseller should be able to help you with this
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You can also drastically lower the speed of the long z-moves before and after the actual printing. Then you won't have this whining sound. But you'll have to find the right location in the firmware and change it. Sorry, can't help you with that.
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Unfortunately the "PrintCore in slot 1-2 is taking too long to warm up" error is almost always a secondary error. The original error was 10 minutes before that, but the error handling is not complete, creating this false secondary error. This will be solved in next firmware release, scheduled Nov. 7th.
So most probably, nothing is wrong with your print core.
Problems you experience with PVA could be caused by humid ambient conditions. Are you sure ambient humidity is below 55%? PVA gets soft in humid conditions *and* from elevated temperatures. Soft PVA will give problems in your feeder.
Once your printer has had an incident with the PVA, chances are there is charred PVA inside your bb core. That can be solved by hot and cold pulls, the cleaning procedure can be found on the website.
Don't tweak the print settings in Cura unless you really know what you are doing. The default printing profiles perform well for most models. Use the last eat version of Cura to benefit from the latest improvements, cause especially with PVA printing there have been real improvements.
Finally what is "z-axis failure "?
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I think it is best that you contact your reseller. This is not normal or common.
Taking apart your print cores can very easily damage the heat break, so that is definitely not recommended.
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I think your problem description could be caused by bad cooling of the cold end. You say the front fan is running, but could airflow be somehow obstructed? Maybe there are hairy strings of filament wound around the axis of the fan, causing a drop in rpm?
If you open up the temperature webpage of the printer
(/temperature.html)
you can see a temperature graph of the hotend. Is temperature stable?
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And my failed try today using a roll of PVA opened a couple weeks ago and a new roll of Green ABS: (the ABS printed perfectly, the PVA, well, the picture speaks for itself.)
The combination ABS and PVA is not supported. Though it sometimes works, it just is not reliable enough.
Thank you for your feedback.
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How's the environment?
PVA gets soft from higher temperatures and higher humidities. Use it below 28degC, and below 55%.
If ambient humidity is higher, store the PVA in a dry place, with desiccant. When using it for long prints (>24h), craft some drybox to print from.
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Sounds interesting, also for Ultimaker employees.
Maybe it is useful to add the European timezone that this will happen: if I am correctly this starts 7pm Central European Time.
I was told today the webinar starts at 8pm Dutch time. Sorry for the confusion.
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I'd like to find a way to have Extruder 1 operating on a 40 micron profile, while having Extruder 2 operate on an 80 micron profile (double thickness for higher flowrate to prevent carbonizing PVA in the core head).
Cura (no plugins, can't seem to find any) doesn't seem to support what I need though
You have to use the setting "support infill layer thickness". Maybe it's hidden by default, I'm not sure. If I understand you correctly, it does exactly what you want.
By the way: Cura 2.7 has been improved bigtime here. PVA is now printed default at double the layer thickness (as compared to the build material), and gradual infill is used. That means in the lower regions it is printed less dense, and near the support layer, density increases. That saves a lot of printtime and material!!
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Sounds interesting, also for Ultimaker employees.
Maybe it is useful to add the European timezone that this will happen: if I am correctly this starts 7pm Central European Time.
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I've been told by our material experts that once you let your Nylon absorb moisture, you won't get it all out with drying in an oven. The water bonds chemically, and changes the properties of your Nylon.
So keep it dry.
In a humid environment, this may mean you have to improvise something to keep it dry. On the forum you can find examples for this (plastic boxes etc)
. Reach out to this forum for more questions, there's a lot to be learned!
UM3 Extruded Tons of Polycarbonate Above the Rubber Seal----Welp!
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Painfull that this happened to you.
Ultimaker has not tested the combination "polycarbonate filament at 275°C in a HardCore Solex, and Airwolf Hydrofill support ". We intensively test our own hardware and materials, and release Cura together with printing profiles to offer a reliable system.
We sell it as an open system, so our users are free to experiment outside the Ultimaker ecosystem of hardware and materials. But your mileage may vary of course.
Ultimaker introduced Breakaway support material this month. Maybe that works for you. Cura features have been added for optimal results, and printing profiles make it work out of the box for you.