tomnagel
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Posts posted by tomnagel
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@The_Rob did this error occur during printing, or somewhere in the warm-up phase?
I assume it is the latter.
You can then maybe avoid your power consumption problems by first manually pre-heating your printbed. When it is hot, it consumes less power since the electrical resistance of the copper traces of the bed heater has gone up.
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your fan bracket not closing properly might also be related to your problems with active leveling (other thread). The measurement pcb is located in this bracket, and when it moves during leveling, this will influence the results.
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temperatures used to be in those help articles. Maybe they took those out because the printer takes care of that when you follow the built in procedure (UM3 only)
(printer also moves the print head into one of the corners, so you can't forget that as well)
(edit: I didn't see the responses above)
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14 hours ago, pfordmedia said:
@tomnagelI appreciate and hear what you're saying. But I'm afraid you don't know what I'm dealing with. I just did a PLA hot push into the PVA hotend at 270. Let the nozzle cool down to 35 and then tried to cold pull it. It might as well have been welded to the hotend because it snapped off close to the nozzle, and nothing came with it. I just dissassembled the core and the nozzle is filled with black, burnt plastic that has most assuredly carbonized (which is the hardest element on earth). It's literally a rock inside the nozzle.
I always use Cura profiles, the PVA is UM. Once I get a decent way to store the PVA both while printing and storing hopefully it will eliminate this problem. My experience with PVA thus far has not been a good one, to say the least (although the prints I did when the roll was new were quite good).
And @Dim3nsioneer yes I think the extreme temps like everyone suggests is a terrible idea since all it seems to do is burn the material and harden it to the hotend.
Hi @pfordmedia
35 degrees for a cold pull is too low. The material is much too hard to pull out, and will snap like you described.
Please follow the instructions on this webpage.
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13 hours ago, ultiarjan said:
While I agree taking apart a core should probably only be done as a last resort, I read between the line here it's the users own fault if a failure occurs when not using UM material. I think we've seen plenty of users with issues that did use UM materials, on the other hand, I myself have never had any serious issue with PVA, and I'm using cheap Makerpoint homebrand PVA. Seems to me environment plays a big part in the issue. I do store and print from a drybox.
Please don't put words in my mouth. I mean my statement literally, and I don't mean to imply anything else. Users following my advice profit from thorough testing that takes place within Ultimaker. Users who make other choices have to find out stuff for themselves.
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Disassembly of your print core is not advised and never necessary.
With hot pulls and cold pulls it is *always* possible to get your print core going again.
Cold pulling with polycarbonate works extra good if you have that.
please believe me: PVA printing is reliable on your UM3, if you stick to Cura profiles, UM material and keep ambient relative humidity below 50%.
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That is not so weird if you realise that the electrical resistance of copper is dependent on the temperature (resistance increases when it gets hot). So if the heaterplate (of which the tracks are copper) warms up, the power consumption drops.
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True that. Switching between different materials may mean extra cleaning although my personal experience is that it is not needed. Some flushing suffices.
pro-tip: there is now a timeout on the last bit of the filament loading procedure. After you have confirmed the filament is fed into the feeder, the printer will feed the filament to the printhead and extrude slowly for a minute or so. You can leave the printer unattended, and use this time-out as a flushing procedure.
use the latest firmware, because earlier versions do not have this time-out.
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Both nozzles are heated before active levelling. This is because we need to squish possible plastic remains during the first probe with each nozzle.
@Bossler, you mention "print head cleaning seems to be quite often needed with the UM3". What do you call often? Internal tests have here have shown that print cores do not clog even when not cleaned for 2000h print hours, although there is a slight build-up of yuck inside the melt channel. That is why we advise to clean the BB core every 400h. I think that is pretty reasonable.
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The sensor that we have implemented is very light weight and hardly takes any space. The measurement accuracy of the complete system is very high, reproducibility is below 10 microns. Next to that, due to the smart algorithms that we created, we measure the distance between glass and tip of the nozzle.
A laser might reach 1 micron accuracy, but a laser does not measure between the tip of the nozzle and the glass plate, so you introduce extra errors. And it will probably be heavier and a lot more expensive.
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On 27-1-2018 at 1:44 AM, kmanstudios said:
This model was/is being printed for my brother. He is a mechanical engineer and designs these type of pressure vessels for all over the world, but mostly the US. These are his files from Inventor I am printing from. That is why, instead of a solid model, it has internal structure with the pipe leads being printed in as if it was a real mini-version of the actual vessel he designed. A solid model would have been much quicker. But it is amazingly strong, clean and shows the workings inside and out should he want a cutaway print.
I printed the material at default temps for the PVA. The PLA was printed at 195°C. No speed changes. These are on the new printer and it is my big shakedown print to see how it does. The materials are the PVA and PLA that comes with the printer.
Nice print @kmanstudios! Beautiful.
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Have you tried printing with all default settings? In the office here, I never see anyone using an ooze shield. I guess because it's not optimal.
The default profiles work very good for Ultimaker hardware and materials, for most models at least.
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It is not so simple. The 4 wires connect to an SPI port in the printer. You cannot connect a simple on/off sensor, and get the behaviour (pause the printer) you want. You will have to create a simple IO connection on the Olimex board, and change the firmware.
I have experience with electronics, and did some hobby projects with Arduino, but I would not try such a thing. The UM3 is too complex on the inside.
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Glad you solved the clog. But still interesting to know the root cause.
The BB core should not clog, also not after many days of printing. However, a minimum flow is needed. How much PVA was in the layers before it failed? If it has to heat up the nozzle tp print a tiny bit of PVA every layer, it could burn and clog. This is however very rare.
Another option (makes more sense) is that there was another reason that there was no flow, for instance entanglement of the filament. Your clog was then the consequence of this.
Did you use Cura for slicing? Cura takes care that the not-used nozzle is lowered in temperature.
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Are you sure this graph is from during printing? Or is this graph from during Active levelling? Behaviour during Active leveling is different on purpose.
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We're working on the problem with your other nozzle. The problem has been reproduced internally.
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The nozzle in one sample going to 700 °C and back to 200 is physically impossible, so it seems safe to say this is a misread event.
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I have seen these spikes in the heater signal many times, and put it on the issue list here internally. But it did not seem too important since the temperature control was accurate (like in your lower picture)
I see now for the first time a graph (upper picture) where the actual temperature seems to suffer from these spikes. That is alarming, because it will influence the print quality. Is this screenshot from a normal printing situation?
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if your UM3 is connected to a network, you can monitor the temperatures via a webpage hosted by the printer. Type in the IP-address in your browser and click "temperature graph".
In a dual material print, you will see that temperature setpoints are constantly adjusted. The nozzle that is not being used is lowered in temperature to prevent burning the polymers. And the beginning and end of each layer are printed a little cooler to minimize oozing.
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In principle, the default settings in the printing profiles in Cura will suffice for a wide range of models. I think "build plate adhesion = brim" is standard, and that setting can help to suppress warping (where the bottom corners of the model will lift due to the shrinking forces. The brim helps to keep the corners on the build plate.
I think with PLA this model will print successfully. Don't print this in ABS, you will almost certainly get cracks (layer adhesion problems).
I'm not sure what effect travel avoid=0 will have.
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maybe this will help you
In the screenshot I think I see your object collides with the keepout zone of the switching bay on the right. If you shift your object a few mm towards the front of the printer, you avoid that zone.
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you have to give some more information for us to be able to help you. Is there still an overlap between your part and the grey zones?
Maybe you can provide a screenshot of your build plate?
This topic has been discussed numerous times on this forum. Maybe I missed yet another setting that you have to change, please use search.
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you can reach maximum build volume by turning off brim and skirt, and set "travel avoid distance" to 0.
Please note that in the corners, there's also keep-out zones for the bed clips, the camera and the switching bay (all indicated with gray zones in Cura.
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The stringing is not normal.
My 2 cents: don't change temperature and printing speed. Use the default profiles that are supplied in Cura. Use the latest Cura.
"Big" blob and huge retraction UM3 after abort
in Firmware
Posted
@cjs Sorry for going off-topic, but did you change the (material of) your bowden tubes? They look white instead of semi-transparent.