gr5
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Posts posted by gr5
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The above chart led me to Design Spark Mechanical and I just love it but your needs may be different than mine.
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You can just fix the model for now - I mean it's pretty obvious to you, hopefully, what the problem is. Just remove any inner walls that are *inside* the model where there shouldn't be any "magic" walls.
So I still think this is the best way to pick cad software. I did not create this but I think it's fantastic:
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1) Make sure "retract on layer change" is off.
2) Also in PREVIEW mode, step through the extrusions one at a time and see exactly what is happening at this corner. Maybe even look at it with the repetier host gcode viewer. It's free and highlights every extrusion and movement with it's associated gcodes.
3) Do you have "coasting" enabled?
4) Is this happening right after layer change? If so maybe print outer walls last? Maybe you already are.
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The feeder upgrade is probably the most important change in the "+" kit. If you want to go cheap you can 3d print the meduza kit and order the parts. Look for meduza um2 on youmagine.com. The meduza upgrade is almost as good as the um2+ feeder - particularly if you also print the iRoberti feeder on top of the meduza upgrade.
Ender is cheap, yes. It's probably not going to last you 5000 hours of printing like the UM2 will (more than 5000 really).
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If this were an ultimaker I'd look first at the fan that controls the hot end.
1) This could be several things though - it's possible cura sliced the model like this on purpose and the model has faults. If this is true you will see the exact same gaps in the PREVIEW mode in cura.
2) Z axis issues can cause this although it looks so damn perfect everywhere else. Z axis issues would be where the bed suddenly slips down a few extra layers. If your Z axis moves the head and not the bed then I would 98% discount Z axis issues based on how the print looks.
3) Most likely is what Greg said. Temporary underextrusion. So many possible causes from tangled filament to feeder to hot end issues.
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Almost certainly an issue with the model. Are you by any chance using blender or sketchup? If so then most likely the problem is with "normals". Read about normals for blender or sketchup and how to fix them.
There are other possibilities.
Actually I think I see a more serious problem already. I can see your cylinders have walls inside the part. That's a no-no. You can't have walls *inside* a solid. Unless their purpose is to create an air pocket. That's almost certainly the issue. Most cad software will not let you create walls inside a solid like that. I'm guessing you are using blender or sketchup.
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I think 20-25% should be (hopefully) enough for this area. Also you want a few "top skin" layers. At least 3 layers in the top skin.
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Probably insufficient infill just under this? Not certain. Could also be minor underextrusion but I don't see any other underextrusion.
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Please look at the image in this post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/14378-2-warping-problem/?do=findComment&comment=150870
Brim helps for sure along with 4 other tricks but squish is so so so important! By far the most important thing. I don't do brim - especially on smaller parts. I use brim only as a last resort for very difficult, high temperature materials. -
Do you have digital factory "enterprise"? I don't know if that matters or not but I thought I'd ask in case someone else who knows more than me has ideas. Anyway, if you do, does your colleague use the same domain name in his email address as everyone else in the team? (again - not sure if this matters but I hear things).
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It sounds like your filament isn't sticking to the bed well enough. Probably the most common issue. There are many things you can do but probably the most important is to squish a little more. Filament sticks better if you squish it into the bed more. So after your leveling process is done, try moving the bed closer to the nozzle by a bit more.
I actually got good at leveling the bed while it prints the skirt. It's confusing, easy to panic, but if you do it every time for the next 200 prints, you will get good at it until it's just automatic.
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I know quite a few people who just don't bother with xy calibration and it works reasonably well. There's a way to just enter the values without going through the procedure I believe? So you could I suppose do your own xy calibration pattern and calculate how much to move. The other trouble is I don't know the units for the values in the xy calibration. Each unit might be .1 or .05mm? I don't know. Someone knows as someone posted this information once long ago.
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As you can see the 5v fan (rear fan) and the "subdivision" jumper are close enough that they can be confused.
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If you heat the nozzle the fan is definitely on by 60C so you only have to heat to say 80C. Yes, check that fan wire. Sometimes people connect it to the center of the board where there is a spot for a jumper that alters the substepping for the z stepper which acts as a short if connected to the fan and you get parts either twice or half as tall as desired (and also the fan doesn't spin).
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I assume you already read this?
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667418045432
So this is a very tricky problem to debug. Normally I say "call your reseller" but this is extra tricky - I'd call ultimaker support and speak with someone (voice or email) directly who has fixed dozens of printers with this issue. It looks like you are in USA so you could email fbrc8.com directly. They assembled all the S5 printers and material stations sold in USA and have a good support staff who can help you. You should include your serial number in the very first email to save time (support@fbrc8.com) or you can use the official Ultimaker ticketing system and talk to someone in the Netherlands potentially by going here:
https://support.ultimaker.com/s/contactsupport
Even if your warranty ran out you can still get free support (suggestions and diagnosis). It's only if you need a part that it matters if you still have your warranty or not.
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Did you export your model from blender as an STL file? Did you try loading an old model that you know worked in the past? What version of Cura are you using? Please post the log file from cura.
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Is this a tinkercad question or a slicer question? Search on youtube for how to create a "lobster in tinkercad". This will give you a more continuous curve. It will still have segments but maybe it will be better.
Cura doesn't do "curves". It receives an STL file and STL files don't define curves. So all you can do is smaller line segments. If you go too small, the firmware may slow down.
the firmware should not slow down for gentle curves like in your image. But if you have too many line segments (> 16) over the distance of only 1 mm then the printer will indeed slow down because it has to always be ready to stop within the next 16 line segments (feature of Marlin firmware - not as much of a problem with Klipper firmware).
When you have line segments as in your image above, Marlin will not need to slow down. It does not stop at each "corner".
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The above link works fine for me. Maybe it went down and came back up? You can download wii builder from your link.
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Does the printer do active leveling before doing this calibration print? I dont' remember.
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Strange.
Is your photo showing the part where it is trying to draw the lines?
Most likely you aren't doing the manual leveling properly. the very last step calibrates the second print core. Read the instructions carefully. I believe you need to use the up and down arrows on the display when calibrating the second nozzle. You can skip over the part where it asks you to put the nozzle 1mm above the print bed. Skip those 3 steps. Then do the rear accurately with a piece of paper and the calibration card and then do the front knobs to make the bed flat. Then for the right core you are only using the arrows (not turning the mechanical knobs).
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Oh! much better. It should work fine now. You need both the Z20 and the G92 so since one of them is gone it should work fine. I marked it as the solution but in the unlikely event there is still a problem I can "unmark" it as the solution. Let us know.
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G92 E0 M190 S100 M109 S225 G280 S1 G0 Z20.001 G1 F2700 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:165 ;LAYER:0 M106 S127.5 M104 T0 S240 M204 S1000 M205 X20 Y20 G1 F600 Z2.14 ;adjusted by z offset G92 Z2.24 ;consider this the original z before offset G0 F9000 X158.782 Y135.383 Z2.24 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F600 Z0.24 G1 F900 E0 G1 F1500 X156.189 Y137.246 E0.04805 G1 X153.711 Y137.85 E0.08643
So the problem is in the 5th line of code. Sort of combined with the G92. But the problem is basically in that 5th line of code. I have no idea if it comes from a plugin or something messed up with the material profile or what.
The G0 Z20.001 tells it to move the bed 20.001mm below the nozzle (I usually think of it as the nozzle moves but actually it's the bed but positive numbers here are more separation between nozzle and bed).
Then later the G92 Z2.24 tells the printer "hey I know you are at 20.001 but I want you to forget that and you are currently at 2.24. So z=0 is now 2.24mm below here (nozzle closer to bed by 2.24mm). So Z=0 position, while it should be touching the glass, nozzle is 17.761mm above the bed.
So basically it prints almost 2cm high from there forward in the gcode. This is all near the very begining of the gcode.
I would disable both plugins and look at the gcode. It's a pain - change the ufp extension to zip, then extract the file in the "3D" folder called model.gcode. Then search for "Z". There are a bunch of Z's in the comments at the top but pretty soon they are very rare and sparse throughout the file.
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When I sliced, it looks like this. Is that what you get also? With the brim and it firmly on the bed? I guess I should have asked this earlier. I assumed it would be "up in the air" in the PREVIEW screen. Could you verify that please?
I'm thinking the problem is hardware related and possibly intermittent. I would:
1) Try it again (see if it's a rare issue and also if it's intermittent)
2) Try an old print with a filament you've used many times before to see if it does it with that also (to see if it's somehow related to the material profile)
What surprises me is that it does the active leveling just fine. It has to have extremely repetitive and fine control of the Z axis (the bed height) to complete active leveling without errors. So maybe it's some kind of firmware bug.
I guess now I want you to send me the gcode file (ends with .ufp) that is the exact same file that causes the problem so I can look at the gcode in there.
Another thought is some kind of plugin that you installed alters the bed height at the start of the print. Do you have extensions/plugins installed into cura? If so that will show up in the ufp file when I look at it.
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Custom materials not transfering to printers
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I have never messed with material profiles, but can't you just select "generic pla"? That's what I typically do. Or I'll even select "ultimaker pla" even if it isn't and either tell the printer that it's an ultimaker pla that was loaded or I'll hit the ignore button when it says the 2 materials don't quite match exactly.
Anyway, Slashee, I'm 90% sure he's creating material profiles somehow.
The UM3 has pretty much the same firmware as the S3/S5 so I would think they all import material profiles from the gcode file on the USB. I'm sorry I know very little about this. I have an S5 but don't create material profiles.