gr5
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Posts posted by gr5
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There's no need. Leveling will be consistent for months. Even years. I know because I've tested this. As long as you don't change print cores or add a layer of glue to the glass or similar. Also, the leveling switch in a UM3 is consistent to much better than .1mm which is crazy surprising.
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Well it has a ton of nice features such as "continue failed print" which would be useful if you lose power again.
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Heat the bed to 60C and heat the nozzle to 200 using the front panel on the printer. No need to wait for those to heat up and in fact they will use more power while heating and less once they reach there. Actually turn the side fans on as well as either side or rear fans could cause a short (rear fan comes on when heat to nozzle comes on).
Then just push the print head around to the corners. See if it kills power.
It seems so strange to me that it only happens on "pause at layer". The head moves to 0,0 at the start of the print job as well I think? But maybe no heat at that time.
If it happens only when you push the head around then there is almost certainly some kind of intermittent short and not a problem with the power brick. If it only happens on "pause at layer" then I don't know what is going on - some violent high acceleration servo move at the same time as heaters? I suppose it's possible.
There is also a way to reduce the amount of power that the bed uses for power supplies that are "old" or something. It's called "power budget" and is a feature found in tinkerMarlin firmware for UM2+:
https://github.com/tinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases
In power budget, add up the budget for the nozzle and bed, leave those alone and then set the budget to be 50 watts lower than that total. That will lower max power usage by 50 watts.
I would not get any other power brick other than the one you already have. Although there is a GST and GS version and the GS version can put out a bit more power and the GST is a bit safer if I remember right (more power shutdown conditions maybe?). I forget why GST was considered better. They are a bit pricey at around $90 each.
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There could be a short. Does it happen often? Or just he one time? The nozzle heater cable may short out and kill power. When the head is in a corner it stresses the cable a bit and may cause a short deep inside the print head.
More likely it is the power brick.
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It took me years to figure this out but once a loop goes under another it just exists "forever". The solution is to slide many loops off the spool. Well first remove the spool from the printer, then slide several (maybe 5, maybe 20) loops of the spool and untwist to make sure there are no tangles. Then carefully spool it back up and put it back on the printer.
You may think "but I was very careful from the moment I took the spool out of the packaging to never get it twisted under itself". It only takes a moment and it sproings like a spring and the end instantly gets tucked under another loop.
By the way, it's possible to fix his without removing the filament from the feeder. But trickier.
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Do you have a material station?
When you did the hot and cold pulls, did the nozzle extrude anything?
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An Ender is a type of printer. When he uses an ender profile it slices fine. There is probably some settings change. It could be as obscure as line width. Or "print thin lines" or a dozen other things.
You could load some other printers such as an S5 (which has better debugged profiles) or an Ender 3 printer and see if your issue goes away. If so you can then compare all the settings differences. Or you could as @GregValiant to post *his* 3mf file for a successful slicing and then you can load is profile which will contain his ender machine profile along with his slicing profile and you can compare those settings to your settings. There are about 500 settings in cura so it may take some time. But many of them such as temperature and speed, accel, are extremely unlikely to make a difference.
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I'm still on Cura 5.4, sorry. Why you guys constantly upgrading, lol. I feel like I've upgraded Cura 100 times since it was working great and had all the features I wanted. Although I've probably upgraded only 20 times. If it works, don't fix it.
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It's a BC817.
Schematics are posted here: http://3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?p=11752#p11757
Yeah it's probably T1 there that you are pointing to.
Below is a crop on lower left of page 2 of above linked pdf. Notice the "J14" and "T1". It could be D5. I'd make sure D5 isn't shorted when you put the red probe on pin 1 and black on P2 with the fans disconnected. D5 shorted can cause T1 to fail as well possibly. But it's probably just T1.
Schematic says it is a "BC817" whatever that is. D5 can be almost any type of diode - it's for something called "flyback protection" so you could I suppose search for that but really, any standard diode will achieve flyback protection. This protection is needed for switches that turn coils on and off. Especially the "off" part. Relays and motors both have coils.
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Is the filament now stuck in the MS or does it retract completely and properly? If it's stuck then you probably need to take the MS apart. There are wonderful, detailed instructions.
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Did you watch the video I just linked to? It explains the cause of warping. It explains the solutions. You wouldn't be asking this question if you watched the video.
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@kcpilotpat - your words seem to describe underextrusion but to be sure, can you supply a photo?
If underextrusion is only happening on the first layer then it's probably a leveling issue. If it happens on other layers then, well this is a common problem on 3d printers and usually indicates a hardware issue with your printer.
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Play with "combing mode". As greg says. It can eliminate all that stringing.
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34 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
Don't print cubes, print tubes!
Agreed. Maybe make a test one only 2cm tall.
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Very strange. I have not experienced this on my UM3. Some people use hairspray to prepare the glass bed. I would strongly suspect this issue if you share the printers with many people. You are supposed to spray the glass when it is not in the printer but some people spray it while still in place and it can get on the Z screw and other undesired places.
Although I don't have a front cover. It looks like you do. Maybe it gets too hot in the plastic coverings and maybe UM used a glue gun for the LED strips and that is now melting.
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So you don't use digital factory? I guess that's what you said. I'll ask around. Have you tried DF? It's free. The feature you want may be in DF as it has much more features than direct network printing.
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Squishing is good as it keeps the part from warping off the bed. Especially as you get parts that extend all across the print bed.
I don't think lower printing temps will help much. You want to cool the layer being printed onto. Down to maybe 70C? 60C? not sure. When you print a much larger part - it will have much more time to cool down.
When I said "add more fan" I basically mean: modify the printer. Crossflow fans are a good option. Or a desk fan. But if this is just a test and you will be printing parts that cover the whole print bed, then no fan should be needed.
But if you are going to be printing 20mm cubes with this volume of plastic then you need more cooling. Much more cooling. Like maybe 4X as much cooling. Or you can switch to a higher temp material like PETG which only needs to cool down to maybe 80C before putting the next layer on top.
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I agree with messing with the "minimum layer time" feature. I still think it's a cooling issue.
It's possible the print head isn't keeping up but it's usually obvious if you look at the temperature of the nozzle - it will be dipping below the desired temp. So if your print temp is 200C then you will see it dip down to 195C or lower. But I don't think this is your issue.
That curve you see near the bottom is quite common. Some people call it "elephants foot" but that's a bad name as it often doesn't look quite like an elephants foot most of the time (including your example). But you can google "elephants foot 3d printing" or something and see what other people say.
Elephants foot only happens on heated beds. I'm not saying you shouldn't use a heated bed. And if you are printing PLA you want the bed well above 52C but as cold as possible to reduce "elephants foot". 60C is the recommended temp. 70C will definitely give you some "elephants foot".
There is a setting to help a bit with "elephants foot" called something like "initial layer horizontal expanstion". Set that to about negative half the nozzle width so something around -0.5mm.
So that curve is related to how hot PLA acts when still in liquid form. Imagine the 3rd layer up is being printed. The molten platic comes out and within milliseconds it is cooling which means it is shrinking. And molten PLA sticks to itself like snot. LIke mucus. So it is like a liquid rubber band. As you go around the outer corners of a cube it is pulled inward like a rubber band but the layer below is holding it from shrinking too much. But if the layer below is still not completely solid you get that "elephants foot" shape. As you get farther from the heated bed, things recover.
So... add more fan.
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I think you need more cooling on your printer. If you are going to 4X the volume you need to at least double the amount of fan. You need each layer to cool completely before you start the next layer
Or since you say you will be printing large objects, try printing something much larger in X and Y just to see if that gives each layer more time to cool before the next layer is placed down.
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I don't know anything about what version of cura and what settings in cura you need. That should be somewhere in the above 39 pages of posts.
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3 hours ago, MrMennens000 said:
I'm not sure where to find the last firmware verison? I downloaded the github one, V19.03
That's the correct one.
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While it's printing, if you are in the TUNE menu and you go to set the temperature, it shows two temperatures:
goal temp
current temp
Is the goal temp staying at 210 yet the current temp dropping?
I would suspect a fan blowing directly on the nozzle maybe?
Well if you are printing very fast with a large nozzle and fan is 100% then indeed I could imagine this to be a problem. So 0.8mm nozzle, printing 0.3 layer thick, 30mm/sec then yes, the heater can't keep up.
Do you have the latest firmware from tinkerMarlin? There may have been an older version with weird power budget code that cut back power to a nozzle? I don't remember that. The latest version prioritizes power to the nozzles over the print bed.
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Usually it should print fine - those overhangs look to be a little steeper than 45 degrees but I think it would print...
I don't think they'll fall over exactly as slashee says or maybe she's simplifying a bit but I'm more worried it won't stick well enough to the bed and, well, fall over. As slashee says.
You are going to waste a lot of filament regardless as you learn to print. I like to say it takes about 100 prints before you are pretty successful. And then when you switch to another filament, such as nylon, it will take another 100 prints to master that material.
So my point: I think the support looks fine. I'm just worried about how well it will stick as beginners aren't good at that detail (making it stick so well you can lift the printer with that print).
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There may be other issues. Is it possible you are slicing for one of the elegoo delta printers? Maybe you selected the wrong printer in cura.
Ulimaker no power
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Plugging in the power cable can be very tricky. Sometimes it feels like the cable is in but it isn't. I'm talking about on the back of the printer. This happened to me once and at least 2 people on this forum. I was convinced it was the brick but it was the cable. The circuit board can move a bit and then the cable won't fit. Fix was to remove bottom cover, loosen screws that hold the board, plug in the brick, and then tighten the screws and replace the cover.
Also the power bricks have a powerful computer in them and the computer can get in a permanent loop. I had one power supply that unplugging for 1 hours was not enough. I had to unplug it for 24 hours and then it started working!
Does the brick LED turn on when you power it up? If not try the 24 hour downtime.