gr5

I think it needs to be clear if this is a clogged nozzle (the very tip of the print core) or is it jamming higher up in the the hot end. I'm guessing the problem is higher up in the print core and the filament isn't even reaching the nozzle. Do you have a way to differentiate where the "clog" is? Anyway my first suggestion is to check the front fan. Not the side fans. If the front fan isn't working then you can get a symptom where it prints fine for a while and then either clogs 20 minutes into the print or it finishes the print but the filament is stuck behind the heat sink in the print core. The front fan should start spinning as soon as the nozzle is > 60C. Also, some cores have a defective piece of teflon inside. The teflon is typically too short and there is a gap where PLA can get into there and then harden and the filament gets stuck. Sometimes an older core will work fine but a new core is defective. Read about doing cold pulls and watch some videos and descriptions. Everyone does it a little different so it's good to understand the basic ideas. Watch how people do it where they get a perfect mold of the end of the core. You can see the exact shape and look for defects inside the core. Maybe post some photos of your result of the cold pull that shows the inside of the nozzle including the very tip of the nozzle where it is 0.4mm wide. The S5 has in the menu an option for cold pull although I prefer to do it manually so I have more control and get a perfect image of the nozzle.

Are they both extruding a similar amount or is print core 1 just leaking a very tiny amount? It's normal for the inactive print core to leak about 3mm of filament until it cools enough to stop. Maybe a better question: if you look on the back, are both feeders rotating? Or only just the one that is supposed to be?

This is just strange. The skirt doesn't have much underextrusion but then the infill has quite a bit. Also the filament changed from white to a more yellow color???? I'd like to see a few layers higher up to be sure you have underextrusion higher up but what it looks like to me on the bottom layer is that: 1) no underextrusion for the skirt and then 2) you get underextrusion for the diagonal lines (the skin - top/bottom layers are called "skin") Did you change the screws in between? I assume not. So this implies underextrusion starts maybe 4 minutes into the print. I'm thinking you have issues with your telfon part. Those tend to start after you start retracting and moving heat up into the teflon area on a UM2/um2+ and you had retraction to make those 3 ellipses. So: How old is your telfon part on your UM2? How many hours do you have on the UM2 (you can check in the advanced settings somewhere). Also is the rear center fan working? It should start spinning anytime the nozzle is above 60C. The symptom for a bad fan is that you start getting underextrusion several minutes (5 to 20 minutes typically) after starting the print.

This is called underextrusion and has many many causes but for the bottom layer only, the most common cause by far (95% of the time) is that you have bad leveling. In otherwords you want the nozzle and bed closer together. You can prove this by pushing up on the bed while it prints this layer. You can do the calibration again but I recommend you practice a new trick. When it's printing the brim, and it's underextruding you want the bed to go up closer to the nozzle so you think about this (don't panic - it's confusing at first) and rotate the 3 screws counter clockwise (as seen from below) equal amounts. It's important to do equal amounts as the bed is hopefully already level. If one side has more underextrusion than another then you can just raise that screw but that's even more confusing as the 2 corner screws move that corner one way and the opposite corner the other way. The first 10 times you do this it will be hard and you might not finish before it gets to the print and you'll have to restart. After doing this for every print (even if it doesn't need it - just for practice) for a while it will come naturally and you'll always automatically turn the screws the right way. But in order for it to become automatic you can't just turn a random way and see what happens. You need to always turn it the correct way to get that into muscle memory. Which means you have to slow down and think... which way do I want to move the bed... okay which way does that mean I turn the screws. If you calculate that part wrong you will learn the wrong muscle memory. If I'm wrong and it's not your leveling, then it will underextrude on every layer, not just the first.

It's not the software. It's the reading of the temp sensor for sure. Look at the reading of the sensor live while jiggling the wire both near the sensor and underneath the printer. Somewhere there is a loose connection to that temp sensor. Once the resistance goes up then the printer will refuse to move servos or heat the bead or heat the nozzle. You can measure the resistance. It should be around 109 ohms for room temp. You can find a pt100 resistance versus temp table by googleing it. All pt100 sensors use the same table.

It's okay to mention other slicers. You won't be censored or banned. 🙂 It's okay to say bad things about cura although some people might be offended and defend cura. @torgeir this is a technique used by certain people who want full control over infill. Especially when making airplane wings where you want to set the ribbing (infill) in an exact pattern. One of the problems is if there are too many points near the intersections. When cura slices a layer it has a list of unordered (unordered is crucial - it's a tragedy that STL triangles are unordered) line segments. It tries to make these into loops. Sometimes if lines are too close together it makes one loop into two. This is just one possible problem. I think somewhere you can set this value (the tolerance before it might make one loop into two at locations where the sides come very close together) but if not the solution is to make all the walls just slightly thicker - say 0.1mm. Another problem you see with STLs is that a face has the wrong normal. Normals tell the triangle which side faces air and which side faces plastic. The final common problem is holes - missing triangles in the mesh.

I'm confused. Did you try retractions yet? That seems to be the consensus. You don't have retractions. You need retractions. The settings are not that complicated. retraction minimum travel is the first one to mess with to get it to do more retractions. Using the display mode shown above you can verify it will work. Maximum retraction count is the next one to play with after you've tried to make a print. You can see all these settings at the same time if you type "retract" in the settings search box. I'm really just repeating what Greg said above.

I'd uncover the bottom of the printer to make sure you have the correct connectors before ordering. Also read the instructions on the olimex website where it has the description of the cable. It talks about baud rate and how to hook it up. It's not what I thought at first - I think you connect serial in on the cable to serial out on the printer. Sort of backwards from intuitive.

I just noticed on my S5 go to "maintenance" "diagnostics" and there is "test limit switches". You can then push the head around and when the head hits a limit switch it changes color on the display. I have older firmware - hopefully this feature is still there.

I know very little about the MS. Contact your reseller. That's the official advice and also my personal advice. They know stuff. And if it's still under warranty... I'd try connecting it up, turning everything off, turning everything on. There have been cases I've seen on the forum for example where the S5 won't boot with the MS attached so the boot procedure definitely does different things depending if it's attached or not. Probing connector or cable to MS is dangerous as you can short out the power pins. I would not do that and I'm always probing things with multimeters and scopes.

Can you take a video of the homing issue? 90% of the time it's a limit switch. Put the head near the center left side and do homing and then put the head near the top center and do homing. This will help you see which axis is the problem as it only does the Y axis issue when the head is near the rear and only the X axis bounc when the head is on the left side. I could be wrong - it could be stepper driver or cabling which is why I want to see the video. I know you tested the switches with a multimeter but... this sounds exactly like a limit switch issue. So the video would be helpful to be sure. As far as boot, yes you can get a "olimex serial cable F". Although I don't think this works with S5's built in the last year or so but if it's reasonably old then yes you can watch the boot sequence through the serial cable. I detail how to set it up here: http://gr5.org/unbricking/ If you have an S5R1 (release 1 - side panels have robot; release 2 - side panels have big "U") then there are deadly voltages exposed under the printer so be very careful not to kill yourself. Please. You can use my guide to find where to connect the olimex serial cable F and if the pins are there then the cable will work. If UM doesn't have the pins anymore on your board then you are mostly out of luck. Although I guess you might be able to solder in 3 header pins? Not sure what the latest boards look like now. Probably don't even have an olimex computer anymore. It's possible that one of the limit switch cables isn't reaching the circuit board underneath the printer. Maybe the cable fell out. Maybe the cable got pinched and broke. This is pretty rare. Most likely the limit switch is (sometimes) just barely beyond reach on X or Y axis.

The retraction alone should be enough to eliminate the stringing. The problem is that with this part you will be doing probably about a kilometer of retractions. That's right. A kilometer. My printer can retract the same part of filament about 10 times safely. 20 times and there will likely be too much filament grinding. 30 times and almost guaranteed to fail. Cura has a setting (well, 2 settings combined) to limit how many times the same piece of filament goes back and forth through the feeder. You can limit that to 10 times and you will get a few blue lines but much much fewer of them. Any very whispy threads left over can be removed in 1/10 second by using a hot flame. I use a butane "torch" from amazon and I go over every inch but very fast. Test it on your finger first to make sure it's not painful. If you go too slow you will melt the plastic. If you do a second pass, let the part cool to room temp again first.

They said something about lowering the load on the cpu. I'm not being flippant - I just don't trust my memory completely. Anyway these firmware guys may be slow but they seem to be quite honest and care about the customers even if it doesn't feel like it to you (sorry!). A few people are upset about this and other missing features and I recommend you downgrade your firmware - especially if you don't have the air manager nor the material station. The process is not trivial (you have to do a "firmware recovery") but if you use the analytics page then it's almost certainly worth doing.

45 degrees sounds much too much if you want a helicoid. Maybe 1 degree rotation? Also stronger in compression forces? Or tension forces? Usually the issue is tension and usually the best way to increase strength is to make the walls thicker.

usually this is an inches/mm issue. Even if you develop your model in mm it doesn't matter if rhino is outputting the STL in inches. So two solutions: 1) increase size of object by 25.4X or 2540% in cura - easy to do with the scale tool. 2) Rhino, in it's options somewhere, should allow you to choose "mm" for the unit for STL files. It's also possible Rhino outputted in cm. In which case you want 1000% in cura.

What version of Cura?

I suspect you are talking about "stringing". Please post a photo as well.

I've never seen pva get that bad. Did you submerge the entire print in water? For how long? These should all dissolve away. So most problems with PVA have to do with humidity. Water gets in the filament. Do you have the MS (material station)? How long as the PVA been in the material station (if you have one)? You may need to dry your pva. You can tell when pva is wet as you see steam coming out of the nozzle and you can hear it popping and sizzling (boiling water). Also the pva is foamy white. Like snow. If the pva is dry it comes out of the nozzle clear and transparent.

Two colleagues who know the um2+c tell me you probably have a "bad mainboard". I just don't know the um2+c very well. If you are competent with a soldering iron and multimeters I can offer some advice but if not I probably can't help you. I don't know if the 700C is the goal temp (in which case maybe that's just a normal profile temp from cura) or (more likely) if it really thinks that is the current temp. If it really thinks that is the current temp then you might just have an open in your temp sensor wire. I don't know where that temp sensor would be located. It's possible the printer is refusing to move any steppers while the internal temp is over some threshold. Say 50C. I know 80C air temp is hot enough to damage the steppers. So it could be something very simple (loose wire to the temp "build volume" temp sensor). I didn't even know the UM2+C had an air manager so I really don't know this printer very well.

You should contact your reseller. So the steppers and the heaters run off 24V. Everything else is lower voltage. Losing 24V intermittently could be a firmware feature (maybe it sees crazy values on the sensors due to damage and so disables everything), or it could be a hardware issue that I'm familiar with. If it's a firmware issue you can probably see something about it in the log file? Something like "bad temp sensor value" followed by "disabling 24v" or "disabling heaters and steppers". Just a guess. You could also concentrate on print head temp sensor since it sounds like you may have damaged it - they are a bit delicate. Before heating anything up, go through the menu system to control it manually and see what temp it is reading. It should read at room temp (I assume around 20C). If it reads say -100C, 0C 300C, or just "error" then you should concentrate on this. I'd replace the sensor. They are the most expensive part in the print head at around $25. You can get them from UM resellers or from 3dsolex.com (same part as for UM2). Anyway I want to talk about the hardware issue. I've never seen the underside of a um2+c but I have a UM2, UM3, and an S5. They all have a variation on this board shown below. It controls the steppers and the heaters. See that big blue box there? That's the relay that allows 24V to flow to the stepper drivers and the heater switches. You could give that a rap or assuming you only have access to the other side you could tap that corner of the PCB with a very fast, but low energy tap. Like with a wooden spoon knocking quietly on a pan. That relay is known to fail intermittently and you can bypass it with a jumper as it isn't really needed.

I'm not sure if you understood what Dustin said, but the feature you are looking for I'm pretty sure is gone starting in 8.1 firmware. You may want to downgrade your printer firmware to 7.X. Many people have done this. On the other hand, most people seem to prefer the new features in digital factory. Basically many of the features that were available on the LAN are now moved to Digital Factory (the cloud). This is not a business decision so much as a technical decision. The good news is that Digital Factory is free. The bad news is that some companies security departments refuse access so you may have to downgrade which is not trivial. It requires a "firmware recovery", access to the bottom of the printer and so on. Contact your reseller if you want to downgrade the firmware.

First try touching above below left right of the button. Sometimes touch screens get the location out of calibration a bit. Then contact your reseller. They can sell you a new panel (assuming it's the panel). If your printer is still under warranty then it should be free.

It seems the first 3 settings in cura you should probably look at and play with are: infill density wall thickness top/bottom thickness (aka skin) You can experiment with different values for "infill density". And if you want to measure purely just the infill you can set wall thickness and top/bottom thickness to zero so you get *only* infill.

1) Do you already own an S3 or are you just looking at the spcs? 2) Can you explain why you want to change line width with speed (I'm not judging - I just need to understand your goals)? I'm not sure if this is more a question about Cura settings or more about hardware.

Did you speak with a reseller or with an actual ultimaker employee in the Netherlands? The ones in The Netherlands are usually quite good (and for people in USA, the support people at fbrc8.com are extremely good). So your problem is tricky - your feeder and nozzle both seem to be working okay. I guess you need to post your project file. In cura do "file" "save project as" and post the resulting file here. The same exact settings as that square part where the walls were separated.