gr5

I watched the video. You need to have the bed pretty close to level before you can do active leveling. The sensor looks like it is working perfectly. That video was very very helpful. So active leveling compensates for a crooked bed only a little bit. It compensates less and less on each layer as it prints your part. and after about 1cm it stops correcting. This means that your part will be slightly crooked by the amount the glass bed is crooked (versus the plane of the gantry). Your bed is too crooked. If it didn't abort and did the active leveling, and you printed a cube, it would be a cube with one very tilted bottom. So you have to manual level pretty close first. Please read what I wrote above about manual leveling - center the 3 screws better before you start - read the instructions - particulaly about the 1mm thing. Follow that step this one time (you should be able to ignore the 1mm steps going forwards if you level again some day as long as you don't mess with the 3 leveling screws by more than 1mm). Then do the final leveling nice and accurate.

Tug very gently on the wires. If they stay in their connectors they are probably fine.

I don't think Tom Nagel isn't being condescending. I think you are reading emotion from his post that isn't there. Please, always assume the poster is calm when you read posts that don't have any emojis. If you see language that implies the poster is angry ask if there is another possiblility. I have to do this myself all the time. I think someone is angry - reread the post and realize I was just assuming. He is just asking for more information about the camera feed. I've read this whole thread and I'm still a bit confused about this camera issue - please explain in more detail. Is the feature there or not? Tom says it is. Are you saying the camera works but only with the firewall off? And you need the firewall on? but you also want network connection to the printer which also needs the firewall off? I don't use any network functions on my s-line printers so I am just trying to understand. By the way, just to clarify, I don't work for Ultimaker and I never have. I'm a user.

Just because the 0.8 prints fine doesn't mean the feeder isn't weak. It could be the 0.8 prints require less pressure in the nozzle (I mean it *is* a bigger hole in the nozzle) so less force from the feeder. It all depends on layer height. If you aren't doubling the layer height for the 0.8 nozzle then the feeder isn't working as hard. It's spinning faster for those 0.8mm wide lines but less force needed. My favorite test of the feeder is to use the MOVE command (middle menu on printer, click on filament at top, click on "..." in top right corner, click "move") and make sure the filament is well above the print core and you can see it in the bowden. That move the filament a bit and fight it hard with the other hand by pulling down on the filament. Hard. Like 10 to 20 pounds hard. You could compare it to another printer. Typicall S3/S5/S7/UM3 pull with about 15 pounds force but 10 pounds is definitely a "pass". 5 pounds is a fail. not sure where to put the line - maybe around 9 pounds - if it can't pull around 8 pounds then it's a bad feeder. There are parts that can wear out or it can have so much junk in the feeder that it barely functions and needs cleaning. The splines on the wheels that pull/push the filament can wear down (unlikely as they are hardened steel - but it can happen).

If you tightened them all the way and then do manual leveling and it hits the bed in the rear then you spin the white knob so that it is about 1mm above the glass. As the instructions on the screen say to do. If it is 1mm above the glass in the rear and it STILL hits the glass in the front right corner then start over and do 2mm or 3mm above the glass. I actually always skip the "1mm over glass" step unless I have taken my bed apart and reassembled. Maybe you got the habit of skipping the step or maybe you never read the instructions about the "1mm". It doesn't have to be exactly 1mm. It could be a half mm or 2mm but the whole point of that step is so that the nozzle doesn't hit the glass. ALSO don't tighten the screws all the way down. I would tighten about half way so that you have room to go up or down when you start the leveling procedure.

Or wait a bit for 8.1.1? Sometimes going back a version on the s-line printers is easy but not this time. You have to remove covers and do a firmware recovery and it also will reset the database and everything (everything? Maybe?) stored (old gcode files, possibly network settings, possibly calibration data such as XY calibration values for known print cores). To clarify - it's rare that you have to do a firmware recovery to revert but occasionally the changes can't be undone using firmware installer that was written before the latest firmware version (I hope that makes sense).

Note that in manual leveling when you do the leveling in the rear you are spinning the "computer knob" on the front of the printer - not the leveling screw.

It might be helpful to also see a video of the active leveling - as short as possible where it shows the nozzle coming down and touching the glass.

The video is super short which I love. So when it hits the glass in the front right corner - that's fine - at that point you want to turn the thumb screw clockwise (as seen looking from below into the screw) to pull the print bed down until it is no longer touching the glass and then back off until it is just barely kissing the glass. Or you can use the calibration card or you can just use a normal thickness piece of paper - like printer paper - as a spacer. You slide the paper around while turning the screw until you get a certain amount of resistance (you decide) and repeat that for all 3 leveling points. um3 support pages probably have a video.

I was just told that this is a new feature. It monitors the 24V power supply which is used by the steppers and heaters. It's possible that the limits for this error are set too sensitive but more likely I'd guess your power supply is somewhat defective and your steppers aren't getting the full power they deserve. Since this is so new - just came out a few days ago - it's hard to judge which of these 2 things are truth. Does it halt printing? maybe you can disable it in settings? I know very little about this. Does it let you print anyway?

Sorry - I moved this to a different thread as it seems mostly off topic. You can extract the parts related to the firmware update and post again over there if you want. I also changed the title to "head flood" which is what this is called. So these are kind of common. People eventually learn to never have them but it's a nasty lesson to learn. I've never had one and they can happen in UM3/S3/S5 (but are protected better against in the S7). I have 2 of those machines and they are pretty active. So there are two causes - one is the door on the print head flops down overly easily during a print. This is pretty rare. The much more common cause is that your print came loose at a moment when it was wider than tall (like a hockey puck) and the print head started sliding the print around on the print bed (like a hockey puck). The filament keeps coming out and builds up and after maybe 15 minutes it starts getting into the head and after an hour or so it's a disaster. As you now know. The solution is to never ever let your parts come loose. There is a ton of discussion about this. It also helps to monitor the printer every hour or so but that's not a reasonable solution. For more details on this (not letting your part come loose) please ask - but first tell me your material that you are printing. No need to throw anything away - this is fixable with heat gun and metal tools (like needle nose pliers) but is a royal pain and you have to dedicate an hour or so with the right tools. Also manually heat up the cores to start melting from the center as well. Or you could possibly send it back to your reseller and make them do it (I know someone who has fixed a dozen of these). But they will charge of course. The most delicate parts are the cables in the cores that go to the sensor and heater but cores are considered "consumables" anyway. Clean those up last as it's helpful to have the internal heaters.

Okay - so I can see that sometimes you can zoom out to see the whole bed and sometimes you can zoom out much farther (if you want). But I don't see any problems with controlling moving and rotating the part.

You can definitely use the E2 connector. First check the wiring. If only 3 of the 4 wires are connected to the servo then sometimes it will move but weakly and sometimes only one direction. There is a direction pin that goes from the "arduino" chip to the servo driver but it's unlikely that this pin is stuck. More likely the driver. Before trying to use the E2 connector, check if there is even a servo driver for it. The newer PCBs don't even have the servo driver installed to save some money. The older UM2 printers have it but the newer ones not. It's easy to spot. It's a big square chip and there is one for each servo connector and they are kind of lined up. XYZEE. 5 connectors. 5 chips. Yes you can recompile the firmware. The easy part is looking up the E2 pin numbers and modifying the X pins to be equal to what the E2 pins are. I think it's pins.h. The harder part is recompiling the code. I have a post about this. While you are doing all this, use the tinkergnome fork of the firmware as it's much better firmware in my opinion. Instructions:

This is why all software updates terrify me. Not just 3d printer related. I miss windows XP. My S5 firmware is, I believe, from before digital factory came out. Maybe it's newer but it's certainly at least a year old.

I'd call your reseller immediately about this. But if you don't want to wait for them to get back to you, I would power down, disconnect the material station (just unplug the cable and open up the feeder levers so they can't move the filament), power back up and get things sorted such as internet, infinite loops, and firmware upgrades and only when things seem fine would I *then* reconnect the material station and close the feeder levers.

Yay! Looks good. It's important that the rear two clips hold the glass firmly. Otherwise the glass can slide around during printing and you get "shifts" on certain layers of the print. So make sure it feels a bit tight when you slide the glass in. It does look pretty good now though! I'd also do a quick check to make sure the bed heats up. Just go into the middle menu on the left and select the bed and in the upper right corne. There are three dots (...) in upper right corner where you can raise the temp to say 40C and then as soon as the temp is rising 2 or 3 degrees you know it's working.

I would just bend it back but CAUTION! there is a printed circuit board heater on the other side and it is somewhat delicate and if you bend the metal plate too much you can add a crack to the heater and it will no longer heat up. I have personally bent the rear corners on purpose to make things flatter (to compensate for slightly thicker glass in the center) and I was lucky that I did not damage the heater. The heater will either work or not so it's not like you have to recalibrate the heater. Either you will break it and it will no longer heat up at all or it will be fine. Those clips should be squeezed with some pliers to have a slightly smaller gap than the width of the glass. When removing the glass do not lift the front edge up any more than necessary to slide the glass out. Many people lift the front edge of the glass much too far and that pries the rear clips open. Which is bad. The stiffness of the glass is similar to the stiffness of the bed for the first 1mm or so of bending. Meaning the two surfaces (flat glass, bent metal bed) will end up somewhere in the middle when attached together. I disagree with Dustin and think the rear screw has nothing to do with it. I could certainly be wrong.

This ones great as well: https://gcode.ws/ Similarly, just drag and drop your gcode file onto there. Make sure you go to 2D options and enable "emulcate extrusion width" and then go into printer settings and you can adjust filament diameter but I found it most useful to purposely lie and say it was 1.3mm diameter filament which showd me the gaps in the infill and you can then see if gaps are bigger in certain areas that you are concerned with. The update on the dispaly is instant. Very nice tool.

This one seems pretty good. Make sure you have it set to 2.85mm filament - just drag and drop you gcode file onto this page where it indicates: https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ The thickness of the lines seems to properly represent the amount extruded. It seems a bit off but I think it's correct. If you lower the filament diameter it shows thinner lines for sure but it seems to me the linex are a bit thicker than reality? Maybe it's taking into account the previous lines are "in the way" and it's actually correct? Anyway this could be helpful.

Okay I understand now. "console" is one of the web pages right on the printer. yeah I think you have to downgrade for those 😞

agreed. Extremely unlikely that 2 cores in a row would have bad connections in their sensors. Probably less than 1% of cores have this issue. Quite a bit less. They are all tested at the factory and quality is reasonable (still they are difficult to make as you can't use solder which would melt). Well you can share project files. Or you can check the gcode with a gcode analyzer. The file created for the S5 is typically a "ufp" file. You can rename it to zip, open it, and locate the gcode file, then extract it from the archive. Then there are some nice analyzers that check "flow". they are visual and show flow by color. Or maybe they call it "line width". Let me check...

What console functions went away? I'm very curious about this but I'm not sure what you are talking about. I think some browser features might still be there if you remember the page name such as x.x.x.x/temperature or something like that? It might be that they just removed the link?

Oops. I was corrected. There are version thresholds where you can't downgrade from because the upgrade process changed twice over the years. So you would indeed need to do the "recovery procedure". I've done it - it's not too bad. Just make sure you don't touch anything under the printer when it is plugged in. Or maybe it's because the internal data storage (database) format changes on some new versions and they know how to read the older version but it's impossible to have an older version read a newer database because when they wrote the older firmware they didn't know about the future data format. Anyway, the recovery procedure always lets you downgrade.

When you say "the quality", are you talking about the layer height? You can override the layer height so you should always check that and if you don't want to override it, make sure that you did not override it. For the one that was "printing in the sky", please post a picture of what things looked like when you first noticed it printing in the sky but before you cleaned up the build plate. I can think of about 5 different possibilites of what you are talking about but one is easy to check now - look in the PREVIEW pane of cura and see if it is skipping layers. More likely though your part got loose and wasn't sticking to the glass well. If this is the case my first question is: what material were you printing?

I recommend downgrading your firmware. Talk to your reseller and they can help you with this. There are 2 ways to do it - one is to do it through the USB. The other is to do the "recovery" method which requires removing the bottom of the printer. Every version ever released is available but they are kind of hidden and you need to get the older versions from your reseller. My S5 has a version quite a few years old. It works just fine. There are some minor bugs but there are different bugs in the newer versions. More importantly, you don't want digital factory. So get the version just before DF. So get 7.X (instructions near the begining of this topic)