gr5

Or you can use a mesh modifier which can say "inside this second STL modify the following settings". The mesh modifier can be any shape. It doesn't have to be boxy like in your example. It could be spherical (slow down the speed inside this sphere to these alternate speeds). more about this here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667417981430

Okay now I'm thinking a cable fell out. There are 2 computers of note in the S5. There is the linux computer which is the more powerful computer and it has networking and a full operating system and is about as complicated and powerful as an older iphone. It controls the display and other than linux, most of the code by Ultimaker is written in python and is visible and can be edited and examined and so on. The camera is connected to the linux computer. Then there is a second board with a different computer. That computer doesn't have an operating system. It's much simpler (yet still complicated). It has an arduino like computer on it and the code is in c++. It reads the limit switches, controls the servos, controls the temperature of cores and bed and so on. There is a cable that connects the two so they can communicate. I keep forgetting but maybe it's 2 ribbon cables? Or maybe it's a USB cable? The communication seems to be mostly through gcodes. So possibly it could just be the cable fell out? When I power up my S5 I don't think it homes the head. So do you get the error after it decides to start moving or before you can do anything? Does it happen when you start a print job? Or on power up? Because again, I don't think the head moves when I power up the machine. So I don't know how it can possibly know there is a limit switch if it doesn't move anything as the head may be in a position where the limit switch is pressed or not pressed and there is no third state and either state is normal and not unexpected upon power up. Whereas if you asked the printer to home the head then a very simple failure (like K1 relay which applies 24V to the steppers) could keep the servos from moving yet it's a pretty simple fix and this would cause a complaint about the limit switches. Or if the communication between the two boards is down due to a loose cable that might generate an error that is seemingly unrelated to communication.

You can fake it - get past the error by lifting the bed up and tapping on the switch repeatedly while it boots up. Did you make sure the switch is activated on and off when the bed goes up and down? Again - you can do that by hand and you can hear it click if it is working. But it's probably a broken wire on the switch or a problem where the servo isn't moving (possibly a blown servo driver as those chips can die - it's rare but more likely the chip than the servo itself which is tough as hell). I guess you should call your reseller. You can create a ticket - click the 9 dots in the upper right corner and then support and then near that area of the screen - way up high - there's a button or to create a ticket but it's not working for me at the moment.

I know! Right? This is only ONE of the problems if you have an inactive core enabled. For example if you are printing ABS on the left core and pla or pva on the right and don't disable the right core then the bed temperature is all messed up and your print will come off the bed. Now you know: ALWAYS disable a core that isn't used. But why can't cura just determine this automatically?

Those power bricks have a high failure rate. I'd make sure there really is 24V on the actual main board. And not just on the connector when not plugged in. Of course if there is a short on the board, the power might be 0V on the board even though the power brick is working. Also fully power down the brick until that blue light goes out. That can take many hours if there is no load so try it with with brick connected to the UM motherboard. I've had bricks that won't do anything even with the blue light but if you leave it long enough for the blue light to go out (again - could be many hours - even 24 hours) and then boot the brick back up it suddenly starts working fine. But my money is on the motherboard being the problem.

I have a few links. This is good instructions with nice pictures: gr5.org/med/ I only sell to USA but there is a link to print the parts and a link to the software. You will also want to print the iRoberti feeder. here are direct links to the stl files: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/meduza-um2-belt-geared-feeder-improved https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two If you print the iroberti, use the 38mm version of the yoke. Description of needed hardware for the meduza is in the first link. No hardware is needed for the iRoberti (it is designed to use parts from the existing um2 original feeder).

Try this - use the @ sign and she'll get a notification: @MariMakes - please try his project file in the latest cura - does the outer layer change between CW and CCW? It doesn't for me in Cura 5.0.0 but I can't try newer. And @davidkrc, please try in cura 5.0.0 (you can have multiple versions installed at the same time) and check in PREVIEW mode with the horizontal slider to see if the head is moving CW or CCW. I'm pretty sure it only does one direction (CW) the entire print but there are settings (meant for printing metal and which should not be in any profiles other than metal) that let you change the direction.

Nice. Watched. Have you seen this video of the guy who made the lobster in tinkerCad? I learned a lot from this video. 🙂

Oh and filament diameter is set on the UM2+ in the materials section. You will need to change all the filament types to have 1.75 diameter filament. There is a trick where you can save all your material settings to the uSD, then bring it to a computer and edit the file and then bring it back and reload the material settings.

3dsolex.com has a good solution for the hot end. All you really need is the teflon part but with a 2mm hole in it instead of 3.1mm. It costs the same for either part. Get a few as you are supposed to replace that part every 300 to 1000 hours of printing anyway. In addition you can get their 1.75mm conversion kit which includes an olsson block with a 2mm hole also. And a dual bowden where the inner bowden I.D. is... you guessed it... 2mm. You can also get nozzles with 2mm I.D. from 3dsolex or dozens of other manufacturers (china, ed3v6 style nozzles from e3d-online or dozens of other sellers, and 3dsolex of course, also bondtech, really many other manufacturers). You really don't need the smaller nozzles. It does make cold pull easier but over the years I rarely do cold pull anymore. So the nozzle thing is optional. You really don't need the bowden. But over many years the smaller filament will carve a groove into the larger bowden so it will probably wear through faster? I don't know. You really don't need the bowden but it's cheap. However the bowden is really nice because it's hard to get that little 1.75mm filament into the little hole in the top of the teflon without the bowden to guide the filament in. This is just when loading filament. Finally the feeder. The 2+ feeder will work fine. The 2 "original" feeder not so much and you would need to upgrade to an iRoberti feeder. Preferably with the meduza 2X upgrade. But if you have a 2+ you don't need to do anything. So... total cost: about 18 euros for the teflon part. Which you need to replace anyway every 300-1000 meters of filament (yes I said hours before - in my experience - looking at people's printers - the 2 numbers are usually about the same for 3mm filament and typical printing speeds). Oh and... don't do it. lol. You can still buy lots of 3mm filament (it might be called 2.85 or 2.9 or 3mm but you hopefully already know this). I don't know about in Europe but in USA printedSolid is great for having tons of 3mm filament. Along with amazon. Amazon has their own cheap brand.

Hopefully someone can help you guys. However... Some hacky work arounds: 4 arrow keys orbits the center of the bed (same as right click drag on mouse) +/- keys zoom in and out. You can use = (in other words no shift key needed) or you can use numpad with numlock off I don't think you can pan with keyboard (aka shift right mouse drag or I think maybe middle mouse drag? I don't have a middle mouse button)

Note the G4 is a gcode and wouldn't need any firmware changes. Do you want the bed to cool before removing the part? Well it sounds like you or someone at your company has some coding expertise so I'll tell you some more. You can ssh to the printer. It has to be in "developer" mode which is set in the menu system on the printer. Basically all developer mode does is that it allows ssh into the printer. So it's fine to leave all your printers in that mode permanently (more than fine). Once it is in that mode the ip address will appear on the display (which is convenient). ssh to that address. Username and password is root/ultimaker. It's linux. python code I believe is all in /usr/share/griffin I've zipped it up before and brought it to my main computer and grepped through the code to quickly find key words and things to figure out how it all works. You can also get the code out of the recovery images. The motion controller is on a second board with an arduino like computer that accepts gcodes and there is a utility on the linux computer to send gcodes to it. So it could be you don't have to change a single line of code and instead you can just send gcodes after the print is done. There is an article about the utility on this forum here which does more than just send gcodes but here is a bit about which gcodes work. It's from 2016 but almost nothing has changed in this article and the following printers are all basically the same when it comes to this utility: S3 S5 S7 UM3.

I think it cuts power and for most S5 printers, the weight of the bed is enough for it to coast down. What do you want it to do if the print is almost as tall as the whole space? I think the only fix for this would be to alter the firmware. The firmware in question is in Python and is all visible, comments and all, on the S5. If you are a programmer and know a little linux and a little python it's not so hard to figure out all the code.

I love DSM but I think tinkercad is easier to teach. And it teaches you a new way to think. It's all about adding and subtracting shapes. DSM is more about the pull feature. Almost everying is the pull/push feature (and drawing on a plane and then extruding with pull/push feature, lol).

Alternatively some teachers will pair up good with "bad". On the downside the good student often just does all the work and the "bad" student is day dreaming and not paying full attention.

Oh. Just set wall lines to 1 or 2 and it should be what you want. You set walls to zero and that's why there is no outer wall. So increase that value. You can have a mesh modifier where the inside of the mesh is no different than the outside. And you will still get what I think you want - those intruding walls to strengthen the part.

What age group? I came up with a quick lesson plan for designing a soap dish with tinkercad. We all do the steps together and then they come up with their own idea and design something. I think it's best to walk around their own house and try to think of something they need. Usually the kitchen has the most needs whether it's a bracket or a holder or whatever. If it's a teenager or younger - ask mom or dad about kitchen needs ideas. Keep it super simple like an L bracket. I don't like to teach slicers or how to use the printers as that keeps changing. A few times per year. It's not a lifeskill you can learn in a quick course because next year all the printers will be different and the slicers will have new features and so on.

It's definitely not just you. My friend got the same message today. Someone said that after a few hundred people download the new cura, microsoft will decide to stop doing this message. Just "run anyway". I suspect it's more than a few hundred. But within a few days I think it won't do this anymore.

@GChamp - I don't know how well mainsail gcode viewer was written. Cura varies the flow so even though the nozzle is 0.4mm in diameter, it may be underextruding and overlapping "lines" or overextruding and spacing the "lines" farther apart. I don't know if mainsail compensates for that. Also what happens is if you over extrude for a bit this builds up a little pressure and then when there is a tiny gap like in your picture, it gets filled in based on the extra pressure and the liquid filament finding it's way into those gaps. I don't know how much of that is simulated with the gcode viewer. Also note that it's kind of impossible not to have gaps in the "lines" or paths that are taken. Those circular ones though - those look bad. Also there is a feature called "coasting" where the nozzle stops extruding (on purpose!) for the last mm or so of each "line". This is similar and related to pressure advance. You don't want both features turned on (one in the slicer and one in the firmware) as they are addressing the "same" issue and P.A. does it better. Make sure coasting is disabled.

@TomEm - it's a gcode viewer. It's pure software. No materials are involved.

That's classic underextrusion. If I had to guess one setting it would be the fan settings. The fan comes on starting layer 2. Some printers have the fans pointing too much at the nozzle and the PID controller takes a few layers to catch up. also the air tends to bounce off the print bed and as you get higher from the print bed it's less of a problem. I think you can get a "sock" for your nozzle. A silicone cover. These are cheap. Less than $1 or 1 euro each. Or you might have poorly designed fan shrouds. I'd try by experimenting with fan speeds manually. when it starts the second layer, play with a fan speed percentage that is at around 1/10th full power. Now that's probably not going to be 10% because fans are weird. Do it by sound (10X quieter). Anyway by default the fan comes on at the second layer and then gradually increases over 5 layers. You can change that in the settings.

How about a photo for those of us too lazy to download, launch cura, open the file?

https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337917781

Pressure advance doesn't really work for bowden printers where the feeder is so far from the hot end. Mathematically it should work but the numbers come out to insane values that no existing feeder can match. Instead one would have to accelerate more gradually in order to compensate pressure using the feeder. Klipper is a nice bit of firmware that can run on any printer if you have the right cpus. Including UM printers. But the pressure advance feature just won't work on UM printers because of the bowden setup. But like I implied earlier - there is an alternative. But no one is doing it. It involves controlling the true jerk of the xy movements.

When you just save as a 3mf it just saves your model only. Save it as a project file by doing "file" "save project...". This saves everything - machine settings, profile, settings overrides, model(s), model position and scale, mesh modifiers, everything. This is my preferred (only) method for saving settings. There is another method. You can save a profile. I don't remember how to do that as I last did it many years ago.