3dcase
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Posts posted by 3dcase
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Some Explanation.. I hope
Made myself a simple dualcolour sugarpot, see if I can explain it...
Used Autodesk123D beta, but I'm sure the process/workflow is the same in other software.
You can use as many parts as you want, but be sure to keep the same orientation for all the parts! Use divide substract or split, whatever it's named in your software. But don't turn or move them around.
For now I regrouped the parts into Ext.1 and Ext.2.
Save in 2 seperate STL's,
Open them one by one or to at a time in Cura
It should look something like this,
In cura Highlight a part, and a rightmouse click gives a pulldown menu, Choose Dual Extrusion Merge.
As Daid mentioned, Cura puts the orientation points together again. And it should look like this.
(The part you Highlight before merging, is assigned to extruder1)
I hope this explained a little bit more...
This was the easy part :-P , now the printing starts :mrgreen: .
But it can be done, just needs some trial and error......
Regards Kees
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Hi,
a 2 coloured stl is called a *.amf, that could be a opion. never used it myself.
For Slicing I use Cura, can load amf's.
But I use 2 stl's to be merged.
In your designsoftware you make an object. Split it in the way you like your colours or materials to be.
In Cura the two different stl's are assigned to 2 hotends.
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Hoi,
Daar zijn heel veel oplossingen voor....
Licht eraan hoe soldeertechnisch je bent.
De simpelste zal zijn een kant en klare ledstrip (bouwmarkt ofzo) kopen en die erin plakken, zal een eigenvoedingsadapter hebben, dus dan ben je eenvoudig en snel laar. Wel ff goed opletten dat je niet in de knoop komt met de riempjes enzo. :cool:.
Ik heb zelf in de 4 hoeken Led's geplakt, die staan in serie met een weerstand ervoor en aangesloten(gesoldeerd) na de aan/uit schakelaar, dan gaan ze nog uit ook.
Niet echt mooi licht, maar afdoende om in het donker met de webcam te zien wat er gebeurt..
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How was your day?
Well I had a good week
Started in a new (temporary) Job.
After finishing ProjectEGG I had to find something new to spend the day
It's a 'career' change, from printing plastics, switching to destroying :mrgreen: and re-using plastic products.
http://www.preciousplastic.com
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I saw the atum v1.5 at makerpoint arnhem yesterday. The thing has an impressive resolution.. and now it also looks very good imho.
Did you see it action? I've seen a demonstration of the printer in Fablab013, very impressed.
The machine looked pretty simple, and made impressive fast prints.
Would like to have one as my next printer, although getting more expensive month by month :( .
When I saw it, a Kit price of 1800€ was mentioned.
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Hoi,
beetje grieperig, dus misschien nog niet zo snel van begrip, maar kun je iets specifieker zijn?
nog geen idee wat je precies bedoeld.
Illustrator in de titel doet mij denken aan adobe? Dan kun je proberen om hem als .ai eventueel monochroom in te lezen in een cad programma. Ik doe Logo's meestal in Rhino, dan kun je er makkelijk diepte aan geven en een printbestand van maken, of als step-file exporteren voor een ander 3d tekenprogramma, Bedoel je zoiets?
In Cura kun je ook een afbeelding als Jpeg bijv. inlezen en er diepte aan geven, is ook te proberen.
Als je meer info hebt lees ik het weer wel.
Groeten Kees
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Thanks for your comment and help!
I've now tried printing with a temp of 205C, and that seemed to help a bit. I also increased the minimal layer time to 10sec.
Wouldn't 0.2mm layer height give it more give more of a base to hold on to, or am I thinking wrong?
Oh and yes, PLA will surely fail sooner than other materials, but this duct is just a temporary one as I'm installing a second extruder soon
About the layerheight..
Let's say you have 45 degrees angle (Overhjang). (your is flatter I guess).
A standard nozzle is 0.4mm, Imagine yourself a layerheight of 0.4mm.
A 45 degr. overhang would move the layer 0.4mm up and 0.4mm to the side ?!?
Theoretically it would be a nearmiss, the printed layer would not have much of a base?
With a 0.2mm layerheight you would get a 50% base?
with a 0.1mm you will have a 75% base? Right?
+ a 0.1mm layerheight would give you less volume to cool?
Succes with the 2nd extruder!!!!!
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Dat kan toch zo niet wezen, maar 3 of 4 Nederlandse printers :cool:
Alle ballen verzamelen!!!!!
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PrintTips?
Nou voorlopig nog geen idee, heb je de standaard gcode uit de zipfile gebruikt?
Tis inderdaad een heel gevogel om er met dat spiralize iets netjes uit te krijgen.
Zal op den duur wel lukken, maar binnen een uur printtijd niet, bij mij is het afkoelen een probleem.
Misscheien dat Cool Down lift eens proberen, maar dan krijg je weer een naad vrees ik....
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Don't know about a UMO+.
The standard UMO Lexan buildplate is 240x240mm, the heated bed glass is 230x255.
But buildvolume is restricted by the printhead hitting the bearing blocks, that wont change with a heated bed.
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Ik had eigenlijk ook wel iets verwacht over een soort robot-achtige spin ofzo..
Zo'n apparaat als dit noemen ze in de verpakkingswereld een spin.. lijkt wel verrekte veel op het ding waar ze die delta-printers van afgekeken hebben. Printkop, beetje software, een ophijsstaaldraad en een beetje goeie wil. Hoppa je Z-unlimited delta printer.
http://www.cornerstoneautosys.com/pick-place-systems.htm
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Zo zijn we ook nog steeds bezig met de UltiMaaier, de open source grasmaaier. Staat al sinds voor de launch van de um2 op de planning, maar we hebben nu eindelijk de focus om daar op verder te gaan!
Ha.
Kijk eens aan... dat opent perspectief voor mijn Ultimaker sollicitatie.
Ik zal een nieuwe sturen, met op mijn CV een streep onder de jaren ervaring als Land en tuinbouwmachine monteur
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Hi Oliver,
Speed and temperature I guess.
A next one I would print with a finer layer, 0.1mm. It is a steep overhang, so give the printing filament a base to hold on to.
Lower the printing speed, to give the filament more cooldown time, and/or set minimal layer time to 10sec.
Depending on your pla, try a temp of 205 or 200.
Use as much fan as possible.
set a 0.6 or 0.5 wall thickness, Needs one pass. and use a infill of 25 % Should be strong enough for a fanduct and reduces the volume to cool down.
My best guess is, while printing you have noticed a lot of curling. After printing, the material shrinks and curls up a few mm of the print. pulling away the print from the nozzle, so there is nothing to drop the filament on to. making things worse. You can use a finger or screwdriver to check if the top of the print is hard or still soft.
Last but not least, normal Pla is a pretty low-tech material for a fanduct, my feeling is your tip surrounding the nozzle wont last long. better use something like abs or pla90.
Regards Kees
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Ultimaker nog niet te verleiden tot het ontwikkelen van een DLP resin printer
?Zou een mooie aanvulling op het programma zijn.
Ik ben ook al resins van rond de 50€/Kg tegengekomen, zal misschien veel kwaliteits verschil in zitten,
Maar scheelt nogal met 200 per Kg......
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Looking for a cheap UM1 to use the electronics for a homebuild larger volume UM++++.
And for a new one I consider bringing my money to http://www.atum3d.com/ for a DLP printer.
I've seen one in action and love the detailed prints :-P
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Zou er graag aan mee helpen, prima initiatief, voor mijn gevoel heel wat zinniger dan het printen van de zoveelste LightSaber als St. klaas surprise. Maar dan is het voorlopig even wachten tot de organisatie op poten staat.
Zoveel blogs, posts en sites te vinden, dat ik door de bomen het bos kwijt ben... Vandaar mijn vraag.
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Dan wachten we het gewoon nog maar even af, lijkt me.
Het versturen zou ik geen probleen vinden, waarschijnlijk is het aanmeten en organiseren het knelpunt.
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Hallo hallo,
is hier iemand die betrokken is of ooit iets geprint, of wel eens iets gehoord heeft van E-Nable?
Die organisatie vraagt om printers en ontwerpers om 3D geprinte proteses te maken.
Ik zou er graag printertijd en filament aan besteden, maar ik hoor er na mijn inschrijving maar niks van.
Aan een kant wel een goed teken natuurlijk, misschien houdt het in dat er niet zoveel prostheses nodig zijn.
Gr. Kees
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This is what I call Premium Service!!! :-P
A question posted about a bad connection on tuesday, shipped on wednesday, received yesterday, happily printing ABS again this morning!!!
Thanks (M)Ulti-Martijn
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I can't really argue with you whether the Ultimaker prints better in ABS or Zortrax, because I have 0 experience with Zortrax nor do I know any people who do (except for you I suppose).
I do know plenty of users who solely print abs on Ultimaker so I can only conclude that it does work, besides our own first hand experience which is also a positive one.
Anyway, I am very proud Ultimaker 2 won and was acknowledged as the best desktop printer available now a days
Oleee..eehj oleeh oholee olee.....
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After updating the firmware for the HBK the prepare menu changed to preheat pla1 and preheat pal + heated bed, but both do the same...
What if I just want to preheat pla and not the HB (mostly for old files on the sd card which do not need a HB)?
If I change the config in the menu the settings change for both the preheat lines.
Goedemorgen,
I have the choice for a PLA and a ABS preheat.
If You don't need the ABS preheat to often, it might be a 'workaround' to configure that option as Coldbed?
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Not sure, no instructions to explain it's usage but I assume it's for some sort of bed adhesion. I've found cleaning glass with washing up liquid (dish soap) and warm water and then printing with the bed at 65/70C produces great adhesion with PLA.
I noticed that the hole in the back of the plate which didn't appear to do anything. Flipping it would place it in the correct position for the limit switch as you say but the cable grip ends up on the right meaning you would have to clamp the middle of the cable rather than the sleeving at the end. I think there was a cockup somewhere in the ordering/design process and UM just decided to ship them as they are with no lower limit switch mechanism. Not caaused me any problems so far but it would be nice for UM to let us know what happened here.
I though that to begin with but the wood actually rests on top of the 24V power connector housing causing a gap between the plastic standoffs and the wood. I was expecting it to work like the fan cover on the UM electronics but after further inspection it rests on the power connector housing with a gap.
See below a 'official' comment on the Z limit switch
Ultimaker Test Engineer
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[*]Team Ultimaker
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[*]54 posts
Posted 26 May 2014 - 11:25 AM
Hi Guys,
Here's some news!
Daid released a new update for Cura,
RC4 contains some new things for the Heated Bed update
-New Firmware!
-Bed leveling now does 3 points.
-Extra option in machine setup for Heated Bed (Kit).
New firmware updates:
-Z homing speed updated.
-Manual Z movement to help with Bed calibration added in Prepare menu
-Software Endstops added. To prevent error from missing Z-bottom stop.
I'll try to release a new Manual today incorporating the new bed leveling procedure and a lot of your feedback.
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I have the heated bed kit installed on my Ultimaker Original and it works great.
The start up movement was a surprise…. sooo fast… But used to that now.
But
I have a SD card with a lot of files that I use often for presentations and so.
Do I have to rewrite the gcode for everything in Cura again because of the new firmware?
Of course the bed will not work, but what if you start or make gcode with the 'original machine' and sent it to a heated bed upgrade (UMO-hbk)?
And
at my work I still have the UMO without the hbk.
What if I forget that Cura was set to the 'new hbk machine' and send that generated gcode to the UMO?
A 'old' cold code to a HBKit works fine, you need to set and preheat the Bed temp, by hand, but after finishing the print, the bed cools down.
A HB file to a cold bed, I have not tried..... yet......
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I'm printing with a UMorg, perhaps a Um2 reacts different, while changing process. Changing from first to second process gives a little extra pause between the layers.
When using multiple processes, when preparing the print. Do you choose the, Continues printing, or object by object option, that might be a difference?
For retraction, have not tried the Wipe and ooze options yet. Going to try it now;)
printing a filament oiling mechanism
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
For printing Flex filament I use Glycerol (glycerine),a key-component for making DIY-PLA, so it should not hurt the PLA.
Use a paintbrush to apply a little bit before the feeder, the Knurled bolt will 'bite' trough the oil film.
My UM org. feeder is not as delicate as a UM2 feeder :cool:, for UM2's Drayson's coupler with a hole could be a opion.