Nicolinux

I thought that "changing the PWM frequency of the heater" could be done in software.

Sadly I do see banding :sad: I didn't change the temperature, just switched filament:

What do you mean by "cogging"? I know the sound it makes when the knurled bolt slips and the extruder motor "jumps". Do you mean that? I didn't hear this kind of sound. Only once when I changed filament.

Hi, UM2 noobness here again... I have tried to print the grumpy pumpkin scaled way down to 1.5x. I noticed that the layers are not sticking to each other forming ugly gaps. Printed with PLA defaults for the UM2, speed 50, layer height 0.2, shell thickness 0.8, fill 0. By the way I had some small issues with the "Minicaltest" that came preloaded on the sd card. On the right side is the test print that came with the printer (I wouldn't call this ideal, but ok). On the left side is the one I printed. What's up with the lower part? It looks deformed, a bit thinner than the rest. Ok, I am nitpicking here, the printer still prints very well and the accuracy is formidable. But anyway, are there any tipps for improvement? Thanks, Stefan

Hi guys, I noticed that the threaded rod wobbles noticeably when the z-stage moves. I am a bit senstive to this because of the trouble I had with the UM1 until it was fixed (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2716-cannot-lower-bed-to-reach-endstop/). Take a look at this short video. Is this normal? Thanks.

Lowering the brightness has no effect, the flickering continues. I hope you'll look into this issue later. I'll wait until then. thx

The thing is, the flickering occurs all the time while printing. But I guess you are right anyway. The bed constantly adjusts the temperature. @illuminarti: I checked the jumper wires and they are ok.

During printing the lights (led stripes) flicker slightly. They do not flicker when the UM2 is idle. I have the feeling that it is related to the stepper motors because the light seems to flicker when the head moves. It is not a big deal, just thought that it might be a sign for a bad board connection or electrical interference that can be fixed. Thanks.

Hi, I noticed that the belt tension (short belts and long belts) differ for the x and y axis. Not by very much but still. How can I adjust it? I know how to do it on the UM1 but for the UM2, at least the long belts have a belt tensioner built in right? Is this thing "user serviceable" or does it operate automatically? I didn't want to pry it appart because I don't know how it works internally. And for the short belts, can I follow the procedure from the UM1? Thanks.

Hi, I've got my UM2 today and although I am moving to a new apartment right now, I spared some time to set it up. The question first. What is this peculiar thing for? It is not mentioned anywhere and I can't guess what it is. Maybe it is related to the extruder. A manual extruder handle maybe? Or a dual extrusion filament guide? And now to the first impression. I printed the UM robot (which is equivalent to "hello world" in coding lingo). Here is a picture of my very first print on the UM1 and UM2 side by side. I'd say the UM1 did a slightly better job although the UM2 robot shows more details. But this could be due slicing. They were sliced with the actual Cura version at the time the printer arrived. Notice how the right ear is pretty messed up. I did already mention that the right fan on the UM2 is useless for small objects because it is not angled correctly. When compared to the UM1 robot, it could as well have been turned off. During printing I noticed that the right side was always soft and moved around when the head went over it where as the left side was stable. @Sander: By the way, tell Norman (who build my printer) he is a moro.. fine gentleman. He hooked up the right fan to the connector for the 3rd. fan. Thus the right fan was allways on and the 3rd. was off. I was about to take the electronics board off to track the fan wires but then I saw the connectors above the print head and switched them. Maybe you guys could improve your assembling workflow to add a visual check at the end to see which fan is running. Might be bad if the 3rd. fan does not work and the first Ultimaker experience is ruined by a potential filament plug. And while I am "ranting" - there was no hex screwdriver included although the manaual mentions it. No big deal, I have one here but others may not. Also, what happened with the Ultimate Blue filament? I got silver which is nice too, but had I known it, I wouldn't have spent my voucher for another silver spool (amongst others) Overall I am happy with the UM2. The printer looks awesome, it printed ok without tuning and it arrived in time for christmas (thank you!).

Ach cool. Lock&Lock kannte ich gar nicht. Habe auch bei Amazon vorher gesucht aber ich schätze mal dasss "luftdicht" nicht in der Beschreibung war... Wo hast du denn die Silicagel-Dinger gekauft? Bei Amazon sind sie recht teuer.

Hi, PLA und ABS ziehen gerne Feuchtigkeit an und so ist es ratsam das Filament luftdicht zu verpacken. Ich habe bis jetzt einfach einen Plastickmüllsack benutzt und darin alle Silikagel-Päckchen reingetan die ich finden konnte. Aber gerade heute bin ich bei Obi über die Scubabox gestossen. Das ist eine, ich glaube 74 Liter Plastikbox die man luftdicht abschliessen kann. Kostet momentan um die 25€. Ähnlich wie diese hier nur in weiss/transparent: http://www.amazon.de/Kunststoffbox-Stapelbox-Aufbewahrungsbox-Deckel-Scuba/dp/B00AZLIVXC/ref=sr_1_1 Sie ist eigentlich zu groß für die paar Rollen Filament die ich habe, aber das ändert sich garantiert mit der Zeit

Na ja, ist ja auch nicht so schwer. Ich kriege 'ne Mail wenn dieser Beitrag ergänzt wird. Aber auch so ist das Forum ziemlich aktiv und sehr zivilisiert. Kein Vergleich zu Heise oder Golem.

Das hatte Sander gesagt ja, aber ich denke das stimmt nicht mehr. Wenn sie so viele Bestellungen abfertigen müssen, dann werden sie garantiert auch öfter versenden. Im Endeffekt kommt es nicht darauf an. Man kriegt eine Mail wenn die Ware versandt wird. Dann wird's erst spannend

That's exactly how I see it. I am even thinking about introducing 3D printing in school with the connections I have. A few simple modifications and the UM could be made "school safe" (enclosing/locking the build area). Ian, keep the war references to a minimum please. Germans are (still) quite sensitive about it.

Die Kits sind normallerweise sofort verfügbar und können schnell geliefert werden. Aber es sind auch erst 4 Tage und das Team ist mit dem Ultimaker 2 ziemlich ausgelastet. Ich würde sagen das ist noch im grünen Bereich. Du kannst jeder Zeit dich an Sander wenden und nachfragen. Aber ich würde noch bis Mitte der Woche warten.

Just stumbled over this one. Conrad is a well known electronics vendor here in Germany. The printer looks very "industrial". I guess they got the metaphor wrong "carved from one aluminium block - Apple" http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/1007508/Renkforce-3D-Drucker-RF1000 The detail that catched my eye was the cool looking cable chain. It won't look bad on the UM2 IMO. User IRobertl created one for the UM2 (guys listen and add it to the stock model): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/?p=27460

Or you just order now, just in case the delivery problems are not sorted out. Worst case scenario - you'll get your UM2 way earlier than in 6 months

Looking at his avatar I guess it is a C3PO or something else Star Wars themed

Not really - just preparing: Availability: Currently Unavailable

Ich glaube das kannst du vergessen. Wenn das Filament dicker als 3mm ist, wirst du es nicht ohne erheblichen Aufwand verändern können. Ich habe mit dem Ultimaker Filament gegenteilige Erfahrungen gemacht. Das Filament ist super gut und es lässt sich wunderbar damit drucken. Ich weiss nicht von welchen Hersteller Ultimaker es hat, aber es wird gemunkelt dass es sich um colorFabb handelt (was zu den besten Filamenten gehört).

Die Angabe von 3mm ist standard. Es hat sich allerdings eingebürgert dass das Filament _immer_ unter 3mm liegt. Optimal für den Ultimaker (1 und 2) ist ein Umfang von 2.85 bis 2.90.

Hi, @Ultimaker: I have read a few posts about the direct drive mod and I wonder why Ultimaker didn't consider it for the UM2. Did you ditch it for design reasons or are there other, more "serious" implications? I remember that the short belts were a bit of a pain on the Ultimaker Original. Any way to get rid of them would be a big plus.

Hi Jerry, another fan here. Keep up the nice videos and welcome to the forums.

Bei grrf.de, oder direkt bei Ultimaker. Ansonsten wolle ich colorFabb und Faberdashery probieren.