Nicolinux

Hehe, the grumpy pumpkin looks cool. Need to get some orange PLA...

Holy sh**!!! Please tell me you mean the ninja turtle and not the truck. Because this thing looks like manufactured by a big toy company. Great job with painting and assembling. How long did it take?

Make sure the .stl file is error free. You can load it into netfabb basic and check if there is a red cross at the bottom right. If it is, click on the red cross at the top in the menu bar. Then start the repair operation. Also, which settings did you use in Cura? If for example your shell thickness is smaller then your nozzle diameter, Cura won't slice it. If you want, attach the .stl file in question here so we can take a look.

Hi, I have written about Fusion 360 before. But now it gets really interesting for us. You can import stock .stl files and start modifying them! That's crazy useful. Once one gets past the somewhat complex workflow/interface of Fusion 360, it is very easy to design/customize models. As far as I know Fusion 360 is free for non-commercial use. Check out the folowing video: Link: http://forums.autodesk.com/t5/Design-Differently/Unleash-your-Mesh-abilities/ba-p/4557213

Danke für die Info. Genau so ist es bei mir auch. Ich habe auch eine zusätzliche, leere Bestellung mit 0€. Allerdings gab es noch einen Sonderfall bei mir beim Bezahlen. Ich konnte das nicht über die Store-Seite machen, so habe ich direkt eine Rechnung bekommen und diese per Paypal bezahlt. Ich denke das ist der Grund warum das noch nicht erfasst wurde. Was mich wundert ist die aktuelle Funkstille. Normallerweise antworten Sander und Marrit sehr schnell.

Another idea would be to measure the weight on the spool holder. Then you'd only need to enter the weight of an empty spool and the rest can be calculated. If the manufacturer specifies the weight of an empty spool (and that's not much trouble as I am sure he has more than a few empty spools laying around), all the better.

Balance due heisst wohl dass nicht genug Geld transferiert wurde. Das stimmt aber in meinem Fall nicht. Ich habe schon einen Supportticket erstellt, habe aber noch keine Antwort erhalten. Sander (Ultimaker Mitarbeiter) hat hier eine Liste der Status veröffentlicht: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3170-very-disappointed-about-support-no-way-to-have-answers/?p=23579

Hi Sander, thanks for the info. I have contacted you directly and submitted a support request. I ordered on 18.10 and successfully payed via Paypal but my order page still states "Balance due". Will the delievery for my order be made within week 48 or does it queue up at the end until the order status has been resolved? Thanks.

Hi Markus, ich habe den UM2 am 18.10 bestellt und auch mit Paypal bezahlt - bei mir steht es aber auf "Balance due" - demnach werde ich sicherlich noch 'ne Weile darauf warten. Ich hatte vorher auch einen Prusa Mendel i2 und den Ultimaker 1 und kann nur sagen dass der Ultimaker um Welten besser ist. Ich möchte auch, so wie du kleine präzise Teile drucken, und das schafft der Ultimaker viel besser als der Prusa. Sehr wichtig sind auch die Druckeinstellungen. Du wirst also sehr viel mehr Zeit damit verbringen die richtige Slicer-Einstellungen in Cura zu finden als irgendetwas am Drucker mechanisch zu justieren. Ich kann nur empfehlen von Anfang an alle Druckeinstellungen zu notieren und wenn möglich die gedruckten Objekte markierne. So kannst du später Veränderungen in der Druckqualität direkt am Objekt vergleichen und musst nicht raten wie es damals gedruckt wurde. Als CAD Software eignet sich z.B. Tinkercad (kostenlos, webbasiert): https://tinkercad.com Für Bauteile und technische Objekte lohnt sich der Blick auf OpenScad (ebenfalls kostenlos). Das ist ein parametrisches CAD Programm - du programmierst also die Objekte statt sie mit der Maus zu verändern. Klingt kompliziert, ist es aber wirklich nicht. http://www.openscad.org Ansonsten habe ich noch Fusion 360 won Autodesk ausprobiert. Es ist sehr mächtig, aber dafür auch komplizierter zu bedienen. http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Übrigens, eher als Spielzeug gedacht ist Meshmixer (kostenlos) auch von Autodesk. Aber man kann so coole Sachen damit machen und auch sinnvolles (Objekte reparieren, miteinander verschmelzen usw.): http://www.meshmixer.com Bezüglich der "Wifi" Frage. Ich glaube das ist nur ein Marketingmissverständniss. Der UM2 hat keinen Wifi-Modus. Was du aber machen kannst ist es z.B. einen sehr kostengünstigen Raspberry Pi zu kaufen (etwa 40€), eine Webcam und OctoPrint darauf installieren. So hast du dann einen standalone Mini-Rechner worüber du den Drucker über eine schicke Weboberfläche steuern kannst und sogar über die Webcam den Druckfortschritt aus der Ferne betrachten kannst: http://octoprint.org

Hey welcome. Make yourself at home. Chips and beere are in the corner. Be sure to reserve a seat since the club house will become crowded very soon

@gr5: I guess you're speaking out of personal experience right now I know I do...

Hey Simmonsstummer, don't freak out. Have you read the whole post you mentioned? Only two hours later two people from Ultimaker chimed in and offered to send him a new machine. That's pretty awesome if you ask me. Good luck finding this speed and this level of commtment with other 3D printer manufacturers. It doesn't matter how much we want them to ship the new machines. Whatever reason there is for a delay, I am sure it is a good reason. I wouldn't want a fast shippment with a broken machine - do you? Nagging and pressure doesn't make their job easier but only worse. Let go of this zero tollerance thinking. What little do a few days longer matter in contrast to the months and years to come that you will be happily using your Ultimaker 2?

Great, you are one step closer to a working OctoPrint installation. I think you need to change the supported baud rate in pyserial. Please follow this short instruction. First log in into your Raspberry Pi via ssh. (open a terminal and type "ssh -lpi octopi.local"). Instead octopi.local you can enter the ip address of your Raspberry Pi. Then: sudo apt-get install subversion svn checkout svn://svn.code.sf.net/p/pyserial/code/trunk pyserial-code cd pyserial-code wget -O pyserial.patch http://sourceforge.net/p/pyserial/patches/_discuss/thread/ed3fb0de/f4fd/attachment/pyserial.patch patch -p0 < pyserial.patch cd pyserial python setup.py build sudo python setup.py install To make it easier, reboot your Raspberry Pi when done. Here is the link to the documentation where I found this snippet. Link

When the Raspberry Pi boots up you should see also a green light flickering. If it doesn't then I suspect the boot image was not restored correctly. How did you "put the image on the sd"?

I ordered on october 18. If it is true, I hope I get a printer from the second batch - that's usually when the biggest problems are fixed. I had my share of "experience" with 1st gen machines from Apple...

The power supply is important but not that of a big deal. I have two Raspberry Pi's here both powered by the small iPhone 4s/5 recharger. It works even with a PS3 cam attached...

Sold.

Hi, you have to follow the instructions exactly. There are two ways. You either install Raspbian and then install OctoPrint by hand via this guide: https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Setup-on-a-Raspberry-Pi-running-Raspbian Or, instead of installing Raspbian first, just grab the OctoPi image and restore it on the sdcard: https://github.com/guysoft/OctoPi It is not enough to unzip the image on the sdcard. You have to actually "restore" it on the sdcard. Depending on your operating system there are several ways: http://elinux.org/RPi_Easy_SD_Card_Setup Be aware that if you chose the second approach, when "restoring" you will loose all data on the sdcard. So if you bought the Raspberry Pi with a pre-installed Raspbian card, you will loose this. It is no big deal because it is easy to install Raspbian - just keep it in mind: http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads

Check out the first post. It is Peter Lehnér: http://www.youtube.com/user/petleh82

What do you mean with "last" week? I think they will keep shipping until all orders are fullfilled.

Yeah, I am stumped too... No wonder dual extrusion is marked as experimental. I still don't understand why Ultimaker chose to offer the dual extrusion kit _before_ working on the heated bed kit that everybody seems to want/need.

If that's not an option anymore, I suggest you take a look at OctoPrint: http://octoprint.org

I think it would be better to get to the bottom of this problem. Like Sander said - few machines have it. @LePaul: You have a rev. 4 Ultimaker like mine. I never ever experienced this problem so if we both followed the same build instructions, we should have fairly similar printers. I suggest you try to find a simple object where the popping happens every time. Then print it with different settings and see if helps. Maybe you are doing something fundamentally wrong with your prints (like printing way too fast at 220° so the pressure builds up). Or maybe there is indeed a partial clog somewhere. Heat up to 240° and rotate the extruder (slowly) by hand. You shouldn't feel much resistance. If you do and there is a clog, maybe you can get away with this "trick". Heat up to 260° and extrude by hand a bit faster. If you then feel a difference in the resistance, you might have just pushed out the blocker. And another idea. Heat up to the normal temperature where you switch filament and pull it out. Then remove the small blue clip from the bowden tube (near the head not the extruder). Now you can lift the bowden tube a bit, just enough to take alook inside the hole where the bowden tube enters the head. There might be loose strands of filament. This could happen when you pull out filament and it forms thin strands of plastic that remain in the bowden tube. The next time you push new filament in, the thin strands will be compressed and pushed into the head and might partially block the entry or make it harder for the filament to pass through.

It gets even weirder. I tried to print something transparent too and the transparency changed mid-print. Check out the weird spikes on the first image. So it might not only be the material's fault.

Hi Daid, if it is not too late - here are my thoughts (in random order): Built-in print failure detection and emergency stop. It is no fun to return to your printer only to see a huge plastic mess around the nozzle (aka. the big plastic ball of doom). Could be implemented with a simple "sonar" that detects surplus material around the nozzle. Or an ir barrier for the x-axis. [*]Built-in web cam and remote management. Aka. merge Cura with OctoPrint already Also a mobile app for remote monitoring would be very nice. 3D printing is an emerging technology right? Like playing with the future. I don't see myself running around swapping sdcards in the future... [*]Easier system for changing filament. Maybe something fancy that splices in two strands of filament (melting them together and cutting one off). [*]Cusioned feet for the Ultimaker. This one is a no-brainer. Vibrations are bad and adding four cushioned pads to the UM isn't going to cost more than 2ct per piece... [*]A robotics pack. Adding the possibility to connect an Arduino, and some servos to allow hackers to automate "mass production" e.g. wiping prints of the heated bed with a mechanical arm after a printing batch has finished. Also add a "print finished" hook to trigger the robot action. [*]Better gcode visualization. Printing is time consuming and it would be nice to have better gcode visualization in Cura in order to spot problems _before_ a 12hr print fails at the end. Even if the visualization isn't perfect, it is way better than nothing. You have a bit of the same situation as Apple does. You control the hardware _and_ the software so it should be doable. [*]Smaller addons for the Ultimaker. Instead of offering some huge kits like dual extrusion that cost several hundred euros, consider adding small improvements at low(er) cost. Like a camera for remote monitoring or the robotics pack I mentioned earlier. Also, give them a catchy name (like "addons"). This way the Ultimaker will be established as an advanced _and_ modular printer. [*]Color coded led's indicating the printer status. Yes, this is a gimmick but a nice one. When the print finishes the built-in led's could change color indicating the print status (same goes for heating up, changing filament and so on). With the new side panels on the UM2 this would look killer. [*]Expand YouMagine to allow people who own printers to print objects for others. Something like http://www.makexyz.com. [*]New materials. Right now I guess most people are happy with PLA. If it weren't for the low glass transition temperature. I don't suggest to start your own filament research lab but rather look for partners in this field and work with them to find a filament that incorporates the advantages of PLA and temperature stablitlity of ABS (like PLA90 form OrbiTech). [*]Bundle merchandise with the Ultimaker. It is far easier to get friends into something when they can hold physical objects or textile (Ultimaker branded) in their hands. T-shirts are great and cost next to nothing when ordered in high quantities. Take a look at how Atlassian handles this. I joked around that the next company they take over should be a t-shirt manufacturer [*]3D scanner. Because it is a great combo to a 3D printer. But please don't use raw diamants for the case like the MakerBot folks apparently do - keep the price low. [*]Create a version for schools. Something fully enclosed where children can't burn their fingers. Maybe add this as a kit or addon for the UM2. I think this has great potential - especially because the younger generation shares the same fascination for 3D printing like us. So it is easy to get children into tech this way. And I guess having schools as customers isn't bad at all. [*]Add a pair of pliers to every Ultimaker. It is the ultimate tool for catching surpluss strands of plastic. [*]Create something like an Ultimaker University. A special training portal where people can "take lessons" on how to operate an Ultimaker _and_ handle 3D printing in general. This is the fastest way to get your Ultimaker into companies because most companies don't have problems with the cost for a printer but are woried about maintenance. [*]Create the infrequent Ultimaker 3D design challenges. In order to create buzz, put up some 3D design challenges where talented people can win an Ultimaker. Add a new twist to it (something that makes it special - like the possibility to name the next Cura release after the winner). [*]Approach the concept of hardware evangelists. Select community members (and entice them) to spread the word and demo the Ultimaker at local hacker spaces and faires. I am sorry if this post is not entierly on topic. I hope it helps anyway. Stefan