tommyph1208
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Posts posted by tommyph1208
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No way... I just wote the longest reply ever and my iPad browser gave me an error when pressing post.... sad.
In short:
I dont own a Chimera, just a regular v6, e3d is great quality with nice details and larger flexibility in temperatures and materials than the UM hotends. Chimera is 2 hotends, but one heatsink, so i think you may be better off with alignment there too, though I dont know how much of an issue that is with two UM hotends.
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I would say don't buy new hotend packs (no offense Ultimaker)
They are very expensive, somewhat limited in their design in terms of what types of material they can print, and possibly you will end up having the same problems as the machines previous user... At that point, you have to yourself, decide if you want to go with expensive original UM replacement parts or cheap chinese ones.
A very popular replacement hotend for the UMO is the E3Dv6 (I use one myself)... Its a high quality all metal hotend with a small fan for active cooling of the cold-part, it has no peek, or anything like that, and so can run quite high temperatures for a variety of materials...
They also have a wide selection of nozzles in different diameters and materials (0.25 - 0.8mm., brass, stainless and hardened steel)
Since you are running dual extrsion, you can look into some of the options they have for that,
Namely the Chimera: http://e3d-online.com/Multi-Extrusion/Chimera
And the cyclops: http://e3d-online.com/Cyclops
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Those are just comments. They do nothing other than inform humans about things.
@tommyph1208 - don't you realize you just got some kid to get to skip over doing his homework? Don't make it *too* easy or they won't know how to do the same thing next time.
Haha, you are right about that but hey... Its his loss, not mine.
I never believed in forcing people to learn stuff they don't actually have a genuine interest in... That especially goes for something like this.
That fact that he found his way to this forum, gives me hope though
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Its a regular glue stick, though some brands are known to work better than others...
Another (very cheap) approach you can try is to dissove some regular PVA wood glue in water (something like a 1:10 solution), apply to heated bed and let dry... I'm using this and it works super... You can read more about bed adhesion here:Surface Materials
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0.01 ? Is that possible?
Well, i print with thickness equal 0.02, and its work fine. If Ollson block is installed with 0.15 mm nozzle, i think, 0.01 is absolutely
possible.Ok... So I am not to tell you what you must/can and must not/can't do... I'm also not trying to be a prick, But this is IMO wrong...
You were never supposed to print 0.01 layer thickness on ANY FDM printer... I think the official absolute minimum for the UM family is 0.02, and frankly I find it to be just a stupid waste of time... The increase in quality you will get from say 0.06 mm., or even 0.1 mm. layers to the 0.02 mm. (or 0.01, if that is even possible) is so minor, especially when taking the massive extra time into account.
That is IF you even manage to calibrate your printer properly to do the 0.01-0.02 in the first place.
If you care a lot about making the finished part look not 3d printed at all, a few coats of primer on the 0.1 mm. layers will hide them completely and as a bonus make the print much easier to paint.
I hate painting and any post processing so sometimes i print items at 0.04 and they come out super smooth and shiny and look better then 0.06. I agree that it has no benefit on some models but others can come out sweet. I have printed some at 0.02 and found you start to get some blemishes but this is probably just some of my settings.
If you are patient enough then I don't see a problem.
My experience is that, not only do you prolong the print time, you also increase the risk of failure...
A lot of things can go wrong while printing (Power can go out, the printer can jam, filament get tangled, hotend clog, printer overheat and miss steps, girlfriend kills you because of the 50+ hours of humming noise etc. etc.)..
Some of these have increased risk of happening with increased time of printing... Others don't... And most, if not all, of them depend on what state of quality and reliability your printer is in.
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0.01 ? Is that possible?
Well, i print with thickness equal 0.02, and its work fine. If Ollson block is installed with 0.15 mm nozzle, i think, 0.01 is absolutely
possible.Ok... So I am not to tell you what you must/can and must not/can't do... I'm also not trying to be a prick, But this is IMO wrong...
You were never supposed to print 0.01 layer thickness on ANY FDM printer... I think the official absolute minimum for the UM family is 0.02, and frankly I find it to be just a stupid waste of time... The increase in quality you will get from say 0.06 mm., or even 0.1 mm. layers to the 0.02 mm. (or 0.01, if that is even possible) is so minor, especially when taking the massive extra time into account.
That is IF you even manage to calibrate your printer properly to do the 0.01-0.02 in the first place.
If you care a lot about making the finished part look not 3d printed at all, a few coats of primer on the 0.1 mm. layers will hide them completely and as a bonus make the print much easier to paint.
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Well I have the default nozzle from the UMO kit and usually print at 0.1 mm I have seen some print .06 or even .04 with Ultimaker 2's. I wasn't sure if the .04 was possible with the UMO
Actually, Ultimaker themselves state the minimum layer height on both the UMO and the UM2 family to be 20 microns... Thats 0.02 mm.... I don't know how they arrived at that number, or why they want to try and jump on that whole wagon of stating the absolute heighest z-resolution possible... Maybe to persuade/ fool new customers... I dunno.
0.04 mm. on the UMO I HAVE heard of and seen pictures of... So it is possible, I guess with tweaks., I still think it is only relevant in the rarest of cases...
https://davedurant.wordpress.com/2011/10/12/ultimaker-faq-but-what-about-the-quality-of-prints/
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in the line of what @xisle says... Why do you want to know? A lot of people getting into 3d printing mistake this often referred z-axis-resolution for the much more elusive concept of a " good/fine quality print"... Really, a ton of factors go into that, and my personal belief is that you really don't need anything below the 0.06 - 0.1 mm. range (0.06 mm. I find rarely gives anything, especially considering how much longer that stuff takes...)
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I think this is what you want:
And to get you started:
;Layer count: 3039 //I think this is self explanatory
;LAYER:0 //I think this is self explanatory
M107 //Print cooling fan off
G0 F9000 X98.997 Y100.966 Z0.300 //Set Feedrate to 9000 (F) and do a rapid linear move (G0) to the specified XYZ coordinates
;TYPE:SKIRT //Start printing skirt
G1 F1200 X106.740 Y95.343 E1.14832 //Feedrate to 1200 and Linear move (G1) to the specified XY coordinate, while extruding 1.14832 mm. filament
etc.
Btw. are you sure those are the first lines of code?
I would expect something like this to come before it (Kind of a bad example as this is a 1 layer print with almost no time or filament used... but it was something I had lying on my desktop and I guess you get the idea):
M190 S60.000000 ;Set bed target temp. to 60 degrees and wait
M109 S220.000000 ;Set hotend target temp to 220 degrees and wait
;Sliced at: Tue 18-08-2015 21:19:56
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 0.8 Fill: 0
;Print time: 0 minutes
;Filament used: 0.02m 0.0g
;Filament cost: None
;M190 S60 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S220 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F12000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F12000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
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Agreed, you should always, if at all possible, try to print without rafts and support... These are bound to give bad surface quality in the spots where the raft/support touches the print...
I have printed that exact shroud standing on the large surface... Like in this picture:
https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ce/dd/d1/33/5a/P1030634_thumb_large.jpg
...it does result in a nasty overhang, and mine did sag a bit, but not more that it could easily be sanded if you care alot about how your fan shroud looks
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Yep, 2.85 mm. bowden... Im not using the original UMO bowden tube though, got a new one either from E3D or some repRap store, I don't remember anymore... Using the original UMO v2 feeder.
I have newer tried ColorFabb PLA, so cant tell if that can make a difference...
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However if you plan to print PLA it will stick and get stuck against the metal. PLA is very good at sticking to the metal and if you do any retractions at all (if you don't you will get horrible stringing) then your print will likely fail. But ABS does not stick so much to metal and will work great.
What is this...? Seriously?
I have run lots of PLA prints with 6mm. @ 60mm/s retractions... Never had any PLA stick to anything...
I also do not use sunflower oil...
I agree with waiting untill the hotend is cold to turn off the printer....
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The post specifically state "I use an Ultimaker 2..." Those run 24V right? So there should be no problem with the 24V E3D...
Regarding the E3Dv6 hotend and PLA it is an ongoing discussion... Seems every now and then, somebody reports "what a nightmare" the hotend is with PLA...
I have yet not been able to tell if these are all user errors (E3D have some critical instructions on how to assemble, tighten etc. your hotend), or if it is just the case that every now and then, a hotend slips through E3Ds QA which shouldn't have...
I have only printed PLA on mine, and tons of it, and never had a problem...
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What Robert is saying is that % is not a speed...
You need to sit down and look at what Cura actually does... So for starters, go to the "Expert" tab in the top of the Cura window, and press "switch to full settings"
You will now see a bunch of more details about you slice, stuff like temperature, speed, layer height etc. etc. You can find even more settings under "Expert - > Open Expert Settings"
When you say:
"I put it in cure (its Cura, btw) then put it to the maximum quality..." - Really what you have done, is just to select some default for all of these settings... That is, the default values that Ultimaker has decided are "Maximum quality".
Going back to your speed question... What you do when you increase the % you are talking about, is modifying the original speed value of your slice...
If that (for "Maximum quality") is say... 50 mm./s, then when you "increase speed to 150%", your speed will now be 75 mm./s...
Yes... It will decrease the total print time a little bit, but probably what you should have done instead, was to chose slightly higher layers when you did the slice...
Just please enable full settings, and do sit around for a while figuring out what Cura can actually do.... Getting the settings right (yes this definitely means tweaking, and not just choosing a default template), is by far the most critical part of the whole print process.
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Any changes to make firmware wise for those?
Yes a bit... They interpret the step signals reverse of the original drivers... so you have to either reverse the motor cables or invert all axis in firmware.
They also don't support 1/8th microstepping, so you have to switch a jumper on the board for the z aksis and double the steps in firmware... But that is it.
If you come to it, read through the relevant posts on the forum:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10332-new-part-day-silent-stepper-motors?page=1
and
Be sure to read through it all since, even though it is actually extremely simple to install and use them... It took people (incl. myself) a bit of trial and error to figure out the most simple aproach...
reading it all, provides a good overview of what exactly the differences are, and WILL land you on the right track in terms of installing and using them in the simplest (and best) way possible...
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I have a few spares, I'll try putting those in. Maybe the heat sinks have detached. Will
Check that too. Am I right in assuming prolonged skipping would be more likely to damage the driver rather than the motor?
I think that is a safe assumption yes... I think you have to treat your motors very bad for them to get damaged.
If you find that you have to replace stepper drivers I can strongly recommend the SilentStepSticks from Watterot
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Seems to me the only place left is the drivers... Try swapping them around xy for ez, see if your problem moves
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For all the simplicity of that print, it might just be one of the best FDM prints I've seen... so smooth, just like an injection mold...
Congrats
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I think its about the exact same kind of setup as @Foehnsturm... (his post was the inspiration) Though I have not yet come around to getting some "bends" on the corners to make good circulation (I have an acrylic tube that I plan to cut up in quarts for this)
Regarding the heatbed kit, I bought it back before the official kit was released...
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@SandervG, Thanks! ... Its taken quite a while to get there
And yes, lots of mods (apart from the paint
- Its an E3Dv6 hotend... 3mm. bowden version, mounted with this mount:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount
- The sliderblocks are the reptar blocks by nhfoley:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/reptar-xy-version-two
- The printer has a crossflow fan for print cooling
- Magnetic mounted acrylic sides that snap into place in the holes of the frame... No hinges or anything like that
- JasonHKs heatbed kit with a borosilicate glass plate on top
- LED lights from IKEA
- The whole thing is run with a RUMBA board and Silentstepstick drivers
- Powered by a 24V industrial PSU mounted under the printer
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I actually spray painted mine white, and could still easily read all engraved labels...
Since they are just that, engraved, they wont really get covered up... Instead paint will just seep into the engravings, still leaving them visible on the surface...
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If you deside to paint it... Do it BEFORE assembly
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+1 on the fonts
Use something simpler and maybe use bold and ALL CAPS... I think your end result will be much better and your message will still shine through
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A common approach before the heatbed kit has been to drive a relay with the mosfet... The relay is hooked up to the heatbed and a seperate 24V power supply...
I didn't like the idea of 2 PSUs and all the relays and stuff, 19V is also generally incompatible with alot of reprap parts, and so in the end I decided to swap the board eentirely...
I now use a RUMBA board running 24V and it drives everything with a ~300W, 24V PSU mounted under the printer...
Best UMO hotend + nozzle?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Ah, did not know the Chimera was only 1.75mm., that complicates things a bit, though not a lot.
3mm., or 1.75mm., the difference should not be much... I think some people like one, and some the other.
If you search this forum, I'm sure you can find posts with people who have converted to 1.75mm. and will explain the benefits..
Regarding the PLA in all metal hotends (I've seen this postulate many times in connection with E3Ds hotends), I think it isn't true... I've printed tons of PLA on mine, and never had it clog or anything like that.
E3D have some very detailed assembly instructions, follow them to the point and you are good.