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Posts posted by cor3ys
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Also make sure you read back a page or so, a couple of people had issues with the length of the arm not being enough. I posted a couple of modified files for that but no one has reported back if it worked or not...
IRobertl
Sorry i have not given you any feedback on your modified files, i have printed them and assembled it and fitted it to my machine. but it would be unfair to comment yet as to wither it works ok as i am having massive under extrusion again with my machine, which is not related to the feeder as i have fitted the original feeder back on and i get the same results.
Hopefully after speaking to the hot end designer at ultimaker on the phone yesterday i will have a solution by the end of the week and then i can give you some proper feedback and then you can re-design the adapter :wink:
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Hi Nicolinux
I have the same situation as you, i can not just start a print and it works, so i don't even bother these days i do the following work flow straight off now as it just pisses me off the normal way..
1) manual heat up build plate
2) while waiting for the build plate then manual move material until i get a nice flow then reverse a couple of blips.
3) return to main menu and then start the print...
Just as a side note i have got my massive under extrusion back after 3 months of fitting a new Teflon....
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Right, I dropped the lower guide 2-3mm and extended the yoke 2mm. This is what it looks like now.
Here are the STLs if you feel like giving it another shot. No guarantees this will work, please look at the image first and let me know if you think it's not going to work:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2qlhfayw6aeoj7u/feeder_v4_yoke_v2.STL
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cto902fwtjtsyqo/feeder_v4_body_v2.STL
Top man IRoberti...
I did extend the yoke in tinkercad (shows i have no design skills) but realized this would not work alone... i will give these a print tomorrow as my machine is tied up tonight and will let you know....
Thanks for the rapid re-design :wink:
Edit: oh yes if this works please make the snap on guide fit
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Geeks design worked for me but this still did not allow me to use ninja flex which i was hoping to use with iroberti design above....
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i wasn't getting enough pressure on the filament and the extrusion was super weak.
I had the same issues not enough pressure on the filament to push it through, i was going to extend the yoke a bit but there is not enough clearance between the main frame and the bearing , and as i am not a designer my quest stops there....
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Hi Jonask
I have had this happen to me http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3455-um2-glass-bed-meltdistorted/
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magicmodel
I see your in the UK http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/ has excellent filament in the UK but it does not come on spools. http://imakr.com/ has a large selection from different suppliers but there a bit more expensive than ordering direct but stock is in UK
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I really should get off my ass and release it for testing...
Yes i am waiting to get my hands on your design, I am currently running Bas from ultimaker test feeder which stops ABS particles going up the bowden, But i like the look of your quick release system and the extra attachment which might let me use flex material..
Have you tried it with ninja flex like material ?
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Am I wasting my time?
No i like the look of your design with the snap on guide perhaps this would allow me to use the ninja flex material :smile:
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could this be a 3D printed April fools
http://www.theregister.co.uk/2014/04/01/bt_tower_to_be_replaced_by_3d_printed_bt_tower/
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Hi Shurik
I do not have any content to share unfortunately as i did it on the fly they were only 6
The kids were learning about 3d shapes at the time, so i had some 3d shapes printed and we talked about them, i also had a table setup with all my prints on from vases, dinosaurs, bracelets etc which were all handed out to look at, then i explained how the um2 worked showing them all the different bits, I had some filament all cut up so they could pass it around the class so they could touch and see it before it went into the machine. I also had Cura setup on the overhead so they could all come up and have a look at the robot that was about to print, they enjoyed spinning it around and looking at it in 3d.
I had also printed some 3d puzzles, like the dove tail puzzle and iroberti Labyrinth Puzzle so when the robot was printing they all had a puzzle on each desk to play with while they came up in small groups to watch it print.
The teacher set them a small worksheet that had a couple of questions on it and they had to draw the robot..
Then my son handed them all out there very own robot...
You really should not be afraid of taking the printer in, that is the main part of talking about 3d printing as most people have never seen one close up let alone seen one working, i have explained to my mates about my printer but they did not fully understand how it works until they see it in action then the wow factor hits them...
Hope that helps in some way....
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Hi Shurik
I took my um2 into my sons school and did a couple of presentations to a couple of classes (age 6) they loved it, think the teachers enjoyed it even more though :grin:
I printed a UM robot during the presentation and at the end of it they all got there very own Ultimaker robot to take home, Yes i had to print about 70 robots before i went....
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Dkaygee
My print bed just packed up for the second time and it looks like i have the same issue as you apart from my wires did not weld together, i popped the wire back in and it now works, but i also have the discoloration on the block...
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Don
Good find look forward to your results,
3dfilaprint got in touch with me last Friday and they are sending me some stuff to test for them so i can post my findings into there database for future ultimaker customers, not sure how this will turn out as they are only supplying 1m lengths. but hay its free so cant moan. i will post my results here when i get it....
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Hi Don
I have ordered direct from colorfabbs and have not had any issues its normally with me about 3/4 days after order, Imaker here in the UK have started to sell colorfabbs filament too but a little bit dearer but you do get it next day deliver if you order early enough...
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I have sent them a mail asking for more info, the data sheets on there site say it is 3mm +/- 0.1 not the 2.85 were used too.
There only down the road to me Southend-on-sea
The name on the data sheets is REPREPER TECH CO., LIMITED which looks like a Hong Kong supplier
http://3dfilaprint.com/pla-data-information-sheets/
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My biggest print yet on my UM2 using Faberdashery Bling Bling
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33913
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Hi Skint
I usually print at about 215 temp with .1 layer at speeds of 50 -70 faberdashery flows really nice, at faster speeds i up the temp to about 220....
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Spot on GadgetFreak that is exactly the same as what i get, change the firmware back and all works fine :???:
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No worry's mate glad to be of assistance :-P
I found 6 arms worked better but try 3 and see how you get on...
One last tip i manually wind about 50 meters on manually at a time takes about 5 mins to do, i found if i just put it on the spool as it comes then you will get tangles due to the way it is coiled by faberdashery....
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Do you mean the cut off object ? if so then no i did not use that option...
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When i was testing RC2 when my print finished the head moved away about 5mm from the print and sat there and started counting down from 6 hours with the nozzle temp staying at 215 and the bed still heating, i had to abort the print when finished...
So i tried cura 14.01 still with the rc2 um2 firmware and the same happened again.
I then put the 14.01 firmware back on my machine and did a print and when it finished all was fine
So i concluded from this the RC2 UM2 firmware was at fault anyone else have this ?
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I bought mine from a reseller here in the UK (imakr) and Ultimaker have given me full support for my machine and sent replacement parts free of charge just like they would have if i had bought it direct from them..
This is one of many departments Ultimaker shines in they support there machines 100%
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Have you read GR5 post in this thread ? is more related to a blocked nozzle
I have stripped my head down but i did not have Filament stuck in the system you should remove filament before dismantle i think.
All i did was remove the red clip on the bowden retainer
Push down on the grey retainer and pull the bowden tube out (how this will work with filament in it i dont know)
Remove the 4 screws that hold the fan shroud on. 2 each side
You need to unscrew the back fan 2 screws
Then unscrew the 4 long screws in each corner, (i stick some tape on the black housing so it did not fall apart.. i only removed the back 2 long screws and left the front 2 in place so the black housing did not fall down...
Remove 2 screws from the aluminum block this will give you access to the spring and white Teflon be careful if you remove the Teflon i broke mine it was jammed in the nozzle hence i had to replace mine...
you will now have the aluminum block with the nozzle in it free to look in...
There is some pics in this thread page 4 by Chrisp of the head dismantled
There is lots of pictures through out that thread as lots of people have been stripping there heads down should give you an idea....
hope that helps in some way
Top Layers not touching - UM2
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Stefan
Just stumbled across this belt tensioner for a UM2 not sure if it will fit above the blocks, looks like there using them on the belts at the back of the machine
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:74071