chelys

Instead of using "Change Material" use "move material" (under advanced settings). Wait the hot end to reach the temperature. The jog dial is used to control the extruder motor. Use one hand to pull back the filament while with the dial move the motor in the same direction.

Illuminarti - Thank you again for the links. We are lucky to have persons like you supporting the Ultimaker community (and to spend time to write guides for noobs like me ).

Many thanks illuminarti. As you are familiar with the Marlin code, could you please tell me how to setup a tool chain for compiling the firmware? I read the instructions on github but I don't understand (find) the "arduino software IDE/toolset v23". Have you any link to this file? Thanks.

I don't know the way UM2 uses to perform the calibration. What I noticed is that even if the calibration seems perfect, the print starts with the extruded too close to the glass. I need to perform several calibrations before to have the right distance. But, more annoying, after a perfect print I often have the same issue in the next one. Do you know if the first step of the calibration (1mm) is taken into account or is it just a preliminary adjustment?

I'm using a Mac. I do a lot of abort printing because I have some troubles with bed leveling... So, I downgraded to the previous version of FW. Do you know if latest Cura works without problem with an old FW?

Hello, I don't know if you have a similar issue, with the new Cura/FW version (13.12 on UM2) when I abort a print the filament retracts by about 10cm.

Maybe the problem is related to the use of the transparent filament. The transparency could be influenced by the speed and by the temperature of the extruder. Try to use a "solid" filament and check if the problem persist. Whoops, I've not read that gold filament is not transparent...

Many thanks for the replies. It was obvious that there was a reason why a so useful function was not implemented. Now I know why However, the firmware upgrade seems to be fast. Is it another type of transfer?

Hello, maybe my idea is totally wrong but as the preferred way to print with UM2 is using the SD card, do you think would be possible to send the gcode directly to the SD card inserted in the UM2 (as a file)?

Are you kidding me?

It is not a very difficult fix; one or both the axes entering in the print head are not centered. In the present condition one side the axis could touch the internal panel and the other side is too far from the microswitch. Move the print head in the middle. Place your thumb on the bottom of the slider block and use your index finger to push out the axis. There is no need for excessive force. Do this on both ends, put the rod in place and click it back in.

Maybe I was not clear One hand must keep the printer head firm (put one of your fingers over the red dot), the other hand must gently pull up the fan holder. From the user manual you can see the correct "geometry" of the print head

I've just received the replacement of my U2 printer. Thanks Ultimaker!! I've the same "problem". Geeks it is not a real issue. As I can see in the picture you posted, the left fan is too close to the printer head block. Switch off the printer. Gently move the plate down. Gently move the head block in the middle in front of you. With one hand firmly block the print head. Avoid to touch the rear fan. With the other hand gently move up the left curved fan holder. You should have at least half centimeter of "air" between the holder and the head (at least on my printer). On page 19 of the user manual you can have an idea of the distance. Start again the calibration. If the holder still touch the left or right metal clip, repeat the step and increase a little bit the distance.

Thank you Illuminarti for the reply. For the curling I will try to use different settings. Yes, the middle fan is always on. About the missing layers, the head stop the current one and jump to the next one. Sometime the head stops in the middle of a printing and the filament continues to be released. According to the support, the problem could be still related to the front panel cables. I hope to find quickly a solution because the printer is not usable.

I printed the other part of the cover with the same results.... The head from time to time jump to the next layer without completing the current one. I looked at gcode using Repetier-Host and all paths are correct (no trouble in Cura). I guess is still a problem of my printer.