shurik
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3D Prints
Posts posted by shurik
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G'day mate,
While for the youngsters this may be way too early, kids of the age 6+ would enjoy a story about creating toys out of nowhere.
I used the Tinkercad to demonstrate how we can draw a geometric shape (which they just happen to learn) and had it pre-printed to show the result.
And of course, do not forget the giveaways!
You can find quite a few ideas on the Thingiverse. My experience is with the Cuddling cats - you can find my feline army there, and I lately print in different colors signs "I love Modiin", the later being my hometown. That proves to be the unbeatable hit.
Cheers!
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Would you share the details? I also have similar issues from time to time.
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If you want, PM me. Israel is not that big, we can meet somewhere.
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That's strange. Even the standard coupler should live much longer than 4 months of whatever normal usage.
If you print PLA, there's no real need to go anywhere over 210C anyway, and with the Olsson's block I usually print at 185-200C.
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It is not something unusual for the first layer. Either the nozzle is too close to the glass or you print too much volume for the given temperature, so it clicks and gives you the slight underextrusion.
What filament do you use and what are your print settings - temp, 1st layer width, speed? As neotko suggests, you may want to raise the temperature for the 1st layer.
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This IRC was there for quite some time now, do I miss something?
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I have to echo @2go and @yellowshark. The CF White of all tones is very problematic, to put it gently.
The Faberdashery is nice but the shipment costs are prohibitively high. So I'm kinda stuck with the white color problem...
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Hi,
Have the same story for a very long time. Really long, probably over a year now. So, it shouldn't be that bad, although it would be nice to get rid of that.
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I'm also using Chrome and everything is the same for me.
What operating system are you using?
Win 7 and Win 8.1, both 64bit.
Wait!
Tried the forum from my Windows Phone and IE11 from the same PC where Chrome is slow. The response time seems to be more or less acceptable.
BTW, the "log in" option is carefully hidden under the "sign up" option. Very clever!
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The page loading recently became slow like hell (Chrome).
Tapatalk integration isn't there.
And yes, if moving that stupid "Buy now" button a few millimeters away took a few weeks, I have no expectations from the developers of this forum any longer. :angry:
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+20C here. Dunno what's all that strange stuff you're all talking about.
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Lol, and that's someone in Sweden. What should I have said during my winters in sunny Belorussia?
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Merry Christmas!!!
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Me too having the same issue from time to time.
Once I opened a thread here.
Sometimes the issue persists and sometimes it goes away. Why and how it is yet a mystery.
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Do you move the printhead?
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I bought recently a couple of rolls from Formfutura. Didn't print much but like them so far. Their HD Glass Clear is far better in every aspect than Colorfabb's XT Clear.
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Ahhh, these Tirolean Alps views are so beautiful and picturesque...
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Probably a small underextrusion at some point?
Most probably so.
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Who can tell me why my recent print had failed? ;-)
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Speechless...
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My reel of the Formfutura TGlass clear is on its way.
So, what would be the recommended settings for it? Speeds, temperatures, etc. Can it be printed on the clear glass or a glue stick is needed? Is I2K spacer mandatory?
And - how strong is it, compared to the regular PLA?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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I'm just about to order some stock due to my expected visit to Germany, so an opinion on this material would be very much helpful indeed.
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I would print colder.
And maybe, lowering the acceleration speed would help. Not sure.
How did you scan it, BTW? Overall, very good details and great print!
can't get it to print right
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
My 2 cents.
As it was already implied, it might be that the problematic area is too thin to be printed properly. Adding to that, it has a sharp overhang angle which doesn't help the quality.
Try to use supports.
Rotate the part the way that the overhang to pointing towards left, where the cooling is better (or so it is on UM2).
Try to print as cool as you can. Somewhat around 180C for PLA.
And please share a picture of what you get.