swordriff
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Posts posted by swordriff
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No.. it is NOT printed with a 0.1mm nozzle.
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Free OLSSON BLOCK for UM2 (for 2.8-3.0mm Filament) to the person who must accurately describes what the orange fluff is. Ends tonight at 22.00 Eu-time.
One suggestion each reply, please.
Price can be converted to 6 nozzles.
If more than one correct description, I draw the winner!
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ENTRY HAS MOVED TO COFFE CORNER:
Sorry for Hi-Jack, my mistake.
That is funny! Well, I hoped people would guess that the fluff is residue form the brains of @labern`s flogged rabbit, or something from @gr5 fluffy thing he has in his bed.
Your suggestions are noted, and you will know by the end of the day if you win or not!
Very cool!
Looks like they made fix to the "front page" so that not many replies from the same person would swamp the page.... smart, UM!
OOPS just occured to me that I hijacked this thread.
Please, @didierklein @gr5, someone, can we move this? so sorry....
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Free OLSSON BLOCK for UM2 (for 2.8-3.0mm Filament) to the person who must accurately describes what the orange fluff is. Ends tonight at 22.00 Eu-time.
One suggestion each reply, please.
Price can be converted to 6 nozzles.
If more than one correct description, I draw the winner!
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Hey @labern: that Rabbit- trick, is that very quick- like Ruck- Zack ?
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I prefer the 60 (or is it 65) year old lathe form Germany ( Eh... West Germany) because it is extremely accurate! I Can drill 0.1mm holes with a precision of 0.005mm. There is are noe bearings which rattle, everything is silent.. so when I turn it by hand it makes totally no noise I can hear (maybe getting old). The motor makes a wheee though...
I had some nozzles made in Taiwan and they came in horrible. All 040s where 033-038. So I had to drill them all out. Never again. I do it myself now. The lathe can operate without chucks, just uses colletts. So just a move by the hand ("-these arent the droids you are looking for-") to change a nozzle. haha!
I also have an Austrian EMCO, which is stronger and has auto-feed, but it cannot drill so accurately, but still many times better than any (any!) Chinese lathe like Sieg etc..
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can you add a small tower to the design, then cut it away with a knife later on? 1mm should be enough..
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You know why white wine selling so well in Norway in the summer?
- because it always maintains the correct temperature, by itself; beween 11-13 degrees!
Anders Olsson visited me yesterday! We tried some new procedures on my 60 year old German lathe. Today going to turn down lots of steel couplers which are all 20 microns too large.
We also discussed and made plans for a completely new kind of nozzles.
Weather is horrible..
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Heat the tube from the outside with a hairdryer /hot air gun.
If you dont have it or haitdryer not hot enough, soak outside of tube in boiling water, when pla is soft inside push it out with new PLA.
When you have run sevral hundred hours, the tube gets lots of little scratches inside and is not really slippery! A new tube is a total difference!!
You can try filament in old tube and new tube manually, and there is no more discussion about it.
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HELP needed! Please can someone print the Black Plastic
Head assembly parts for UM2 and ship it to client in the UK?
They need to be tested to fit please. Ill send 3 nozzles as "reward".
Anyone? address to ship to from me by PM.
Edit: it is done! thanks
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My view is the same. 025 nozzle prints slower and the filament sits in it a long time. Consequently lower temp needed. But not Im not so sure about if requires much slow down.
If you print PLA too hot it will clogg the 025 more easily, exactly like @gr5 says.. the plastic just remains in the nozzle too long at too high temperature.
Also: Dont switch between PLA/ABS in the same nozzle unless doing a number of Cold Pulls until clean... or else...!!
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copperfill has a very narrow range of "printable temperature!. I guess it is problematic that copper conducts energy (.. temperature..) so well..
In any case.. bronzefill is much easier.
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Hoi! Copperfill by Colorfabb is one of my favourites! I once printed a model in it, and the client could not believe it was possible... It is just fantastic!Q
Now: My advice is to turn off retractions (yes, there are some bad-asses here who manage to print this material with retraction), but I dont.
I use the stock feeder.
If you have printed PLA, then ABS, then PLA (or Copperfill, which is PLA) then you will have carbon sticking inside nozzle. Clean it. Else you will suffer with every print, regardless of material.
In that configuration you will find yourself in an upward spiral of temperature and downward spiral of speed, ending with 235/40 which is an unhealthy setting (and blood pressure), because cooked filament clinging to inside nozzle walls hinders the flow greatly.
You can only go from PLA to ABS if you first perform 1-10 Atomic Pulls. Epic instructions in English at www.3dverkstan.se.
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Attention!
3dSolex Product Call-back!
Due to a manufacturing glitch, one batch of RSB40 nozzles is manufactured to a low standard. The hole varies from 0.32 to 0.37. Few are 040.
Fortunately: Only a very few of these have reached the market. There has been a huge call-back of un-delivered kits in several countries. Everyone we know about is notified tonight.
Fix: Keep it, Use it, but set Cura to 0.35.
If you are not notified tonight, this is not for you EXCEPT a stray few 3-5 clients only, which we do not know who you are. IF you have problems with the RSB40, and other nozzles work (of course, Cura settings must be right), please contact me and replacment nozzles will be sent out. In any case, this only goes for orders placed after June 23d.
A new set of routine is being developed to avoid this situation again.
This is why all orders have been delayed, but now everything ordered until July 12th, including back orders, has shipped.
I regret the situation.
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Threads are both M6 small size. The thought maybe was to transfer less heat to the steel coupler? Ideally, you want nothing transferred.
ll have to ask Anders Olsson about it!
Maybe there is an impact on Teflon coupler pressure as well..
@ultiarjan what do yo think?
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No not need continuously to add lubricant.
Make a small arrangement with "pipe-cleaner" metal spiral around filament
below feeder.
Put end of "wire with cotton" down into small flask with glycol ( have not tested,but guessing would work.). Try to find another lubricant.
Adjust number of turns around filament to adjust amount of "oil" added. Only needs to touch lightly lightly in 1 or 2 small places.. what do you think?
This is Just a solution to get you out of the trouble with oversized filament.
You have a 2.000E + machine. Why use 20 dollar filament?
Some from UM is very good, Colorfabb, and Diamondage.
Printability varies with color, widely!
Some PLA has a too wide range of transtion between melt and firm state, so strings more etc...
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How about "gliding" with a non-greasy slippery material which (hopefully) evaporates in the printing process... glycol?
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Ich auch darf Entschuldigen. Sehr langsame lieferung.
Sache ist fertig!
Vielen Dank fur den Einkauf!
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Did you break it?
you get new in guarantee!
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I can send a new one!
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Dominik!
Du hasst mir mit unterschiedlichen nahmen, ein Japanischer und ein Deutscher/Französischer angeschrieben und bestellt.
Das hat für mich ein Durcheinander gemacht.
Deine Sachen sind jetzt mit Einschreiben zu dir ab.
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If it is ok with another material, you need to reconfigure speed and temp.
If its the same filament and now prinds badly, I say Teflon/ Heater / Sensor amnd les likely
Bowden tube (actually).
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Hey Guys!
The latest batch of 025 had too large a hole, and the I2K was delayed for technical reasons. So sorry!
ALL orders ship on July 8th!
Merci!
Free Olsson Block Competition
in Coffee corner
Posted · Edited by Guest
hah!! There is already a two runner ups for the most fancyful suggestion!! Will be rewarded, of course!!
I invent new prizes as we go along here!! May even extend the time! You can suggest severel times but easier for me if only one in each post! Right answer will be chosen!!
Meanwhile something beautiful to look at!