swordriff
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Posts posted by swordriff
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1.75 is on its way, currently in test!
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PLA sticks to peek like flies to sh**.
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DELETED POST
Done!
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Hi Frank!
If you have had a leack (probably not yet, since you are relatively "fresh") then the steel coupler is "glued" sometimes to the brass and breaks if you force it without heating first.
You do not have to turn the steel copler more if you are sure the brass block does not hit the fan shroud (look behind). 1/2 mm is enough clearance.
The turning of the steel coupler was introduced I think to facilitate calibration of a dual setup, which will not come in its current design.
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@Lofrank: Regardless what is in turorials in web sites, I want you to heat nozzle, then gently turn the steelcoupler by twisting the little holes to the left so that the block comes up as high as possible. This to avoid the block touching the fan shroud.
If you do not heat the nozzle, you risk crashing the steel coupler with the little holes, the one I am asking you to turn, and it is a fragile expensive little thing. ( It has to be thin and fragile so it will not condct heat well, at the same time be strong, so it is very thin).
I will issue an implementation order about it too.
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But you cannot test the heater with your fingers...
-you can test your fingers with your heater.... once!
Frank, contact me, Ill help you...
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Maybe something got lost in translation from French to English?
How do you know the heater does not work?
If it is not controlled by a temperature logic, it will fry in seconds..
It needs to get rid of 25-40Watt energy from a tiny little cartridge,
so must be connected with something conducting the heat well, like
brass, aluminium, etc
You can OHM it and see if there is connection, or install it and see if it heats up.
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Hi!
I also bought lots of different things from China, and had some manufacture there too.
Always some problem! I decided to not "teach them" anything, but I am not sure its the right thing to do.
It is so easy to criticize UM and finding all the faults etc, but try another printer and see it will not be easier!
I think UM have done a great job, getting a lot of things right the first time!
Look; we are trying to run Ubuntu in Window on a Mac, printing all sorts of crazy material, modifying and hacking our printer in various ways, printing at all possible and impossible resolutions and speeds and complain when not everything works!
So good of @neotko to point out "both sides of the medal".
I personally ruined my (i guess mosfets) PCB on UM2 trying to install other fans i bought from alibaba and the 40 robbers.. the impedance was totally wrong and it just killed the switching circuit.
Some things are really much cheaper, but then next time I did not get the same things so I have more than less stopped buying this kind of stuff..
I had a lot of .40 nozzles drilled with 1 dollar Chinese drill bits.. Turned out (too late) that the drill bits where 0.37mm.. not veeery funny. So now I only use German drill bits by company Gühring.
"
Guhring is a world class manufacturer of round shank cutting tools for the metalworking industry;"
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I agree ! the longer heat zone is not an advantage when printing slowly, can be compensated somewhat with a lower temperature! But it helps printing quicker!
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When Block touches fan shroud problems are much more severe... unable to reach temperature..
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There is one hangup with the Olsson Block I know of, maybe @labern has it in mind: Since it is deeper in the shadow of the fans, when they suddenly come on you risk getting the heater error and aborting the current print.
The fix is to never let the fans com on full blast suddenly, but gradually.
This is accomplished in settings in Cura.
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Since the underextrusion is so even; in addition to all above points could be failing temp sensor. They have been known to "read" 210 when they are actually just 195 ..
If you cannot do everything @gr5 suggests, my recommendation is:
1. cold pulls Atomic clean (Epic instructions at 3dverkstan.se)
2. speed 30-40mm/s
3. increase temp to 225
Oh yes, and if you have printed at higher temp like 250 etc (ABS, etc)
then there will be carbon buildup in nozzle and you definately need to perform cold pulls until the "end" comes out clean.
See if that fixes it.
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Hi Guys,
i have a Problem with the Temp Sensor in my Olsson Block, the screw with the small ring yust hald the heater but not the Temp sensor and since i installed the Olsson Block the temperature dont get higher than 210° Celsius.
Heat nozzle to 200, screw the steel coupler by moving the little holes to the left until it stops. The block is not lifted as high up as it goes.
It will not hit the fan shroud any more.
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It is my fault! It has been difficult to keep up the service level in the summer rain...
Puh.. I think it is sorted now!
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Sorry, and who are you?
I will fix this today.
Edit: I looked you up, and replied to you some minutes ago.
Please make a post when you receive your items!
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Screw much harder!
If anything breaks, I arrange new.
Could be manufacturing glitch in "cartridge holding" arrangement..
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You cannot print pure Tin with an existing 3d printer because the metal conducts the heat too well. You will not be able to melt "just the tip" since the heat will spread upwards in the filament and onto other parts in the hot end and the tube.
It is somewhat similar to the problem of welding aluminium: if you have a 1x1x10cm bar of aluminium, lying on "steel-sponge" so not all heat is transferred away, then when you heat it with an acetylene flame at the end all of it will suddenly melt at once.
This problem is solved in welding by applying a gas covering and cooling the surrounding area which you actually want to heat up, preventing enough thermal transfer so not everything collapses at once.
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Not often you see an Ultimaker screwed up against the wall....
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Winners pls PM me with addresses and wishes
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@skinnykid
@skinny-kid
Make a bug report?
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Best Answer generates a lot of points! Im doing this also to help the Forum get running better/even better, When can we have it?
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OK AND THE WINNER IS:
I am trying to press Best Answer, but brings me to Forbidden Page!
So until UM fixes that, no prize!
And there is a prize (2 nozzles each) for 2 more entrie, the funniest and most original.
All in my subjective estimate, of course!
I have a new competition coming up! Please help me fix the Best Answer button first!
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I dont know what you are thinking exactly from such a long distance, but guessing yes, they are. And they on their way to you. This time 15 micron smaller.. Puh.. What a journey
Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Ships today to you with the upgraded 0.15mm nozzle JET15x and Teflon for 1.75 and 4.2mm Bowden receptacle! Good luck!!