luisito
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Posts posted by luisito
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My experience with Buildtak is awful. Sometimes parts stick so well to the Buildtak surface that is very easy to damage the surface when removing parts. I prefer to used glue when necessary, instead of using special surfaces.
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Easy, remove the feeder external cap (you should remove the 4 external screws, not the two internal ones) and try to push with your fingers the small gear (the one that is mounted on the motor shaft) towards the motor. If you can, it is affected by this problem. In my feeder i can push it easily. Dont forget to pull it back to its original position, or your feeder will not work!
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I forgot to say it works that way on the UM2+ upgrade kit. I dont kown if it is designed same way on the original UM2+.
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I have found that the gear that is attached to the motor shaft can travel inwards along the shaft, eventually loosing contact with the larger gear. The visble effect is that the feeder starts to fail.
It happened to me just after three spools printed, so I think it may happen easily.
I would recommend using at least one washer lock in the inside part of the shaft ofr even two washers one in each side of the smaller gear.
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Even if the copperfill part looks dull, as shown on the bottom right side picture, it looks shiny when seen under microscope.
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They look metallic, but is the filament strong enough to make gears for motors? If not, can someone suggest a strong filament that produces gears (that won't lose teeth)? My gears are 1 cm diametre with 20 teeth and need to be rotated to lift heavy objects. Steel is what the gears are typically made from.
I have used colorfabb brassfil, copperfill and bronzefill, and all them are very brittle. Not suitable for any significant mechanical effort, IMHO. Have you tried Nylon?
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I use this one:
It has selectable speed, and timing. I use inox balls 1.5mm. Have tried brass screws too but with average results. I am able to get shinny parts in about 2 hours at medium tumbler speed.
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Do copper filaments, like Colorfabb Copperfill, require hardened nozzle?. I have used e3d hardened nozzles for carbonfill printing. It works pretty well. Is it advisable to use such nozzles for copper, brass or bronze filled filaments as well?.
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I have received some special filament samples from Colorfabb. Among them, brass, copper and bronze. But as these are samples, there is no label sticked to each sample, so i cannot tell which is which. Is there any way to tell by color or weight ?.
BTW! COlorfabb guys, please attach stickers to samples!.
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Impressive quality!. i got the same piece printed on a Formlabs Form 2 printer. It is printed by Formlabs themselves and given away as a demo part. And i can tell you it does not look better than this. I can share a picture if you want to compare.
Looks very nice @Xeno!! Is it still WIP? Can't wait to see it when it is finished.
From a completely different angle, and even though I did not print it myself but 'team Ultimaker' did, I really want to share this print if it has gone unnoticed.
One of the most impressive print qualities I have seen in a while. Give it a try yourself, the settings are shared
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Cura 2.11. Infill Density set to 100% does nothing.
I set Infill Density to 20%, then I change it to print with 100% infill.
Although the interface displays 100% It still prints at 20%.
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Pretty impressive!
I have one spool of XT Clear lying around. I am going t give it a try.
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Colorfab HT apparently allows to achieve amazing transparency, according to the following blog. The recommended temperature is 260C and beyond, which unfortunately is on the UM2 limit. Anyone wants to give it a try?.
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Detail: 7x5mm. Guess which part was printed with UM2+.
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No way to improve noise. I will assume it has to be that way.
I am getting consistently worse printed parts using the upgraded UM2+ than the same parts printed on original UM2. In particular there are lot of bridges between small features and random over-extrusion. I have tried with different settings without success. I would not expect to print better, but I did expect to achieve same quality!.
For instance, try to print "giza.stl" from Thingiverse (scaled down to 50x50mm). In my UM2 original I get details that are missing or totally meseed up on the UM2+.
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SanderVG, here it is the sound file:
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When replacing filament, (option "Change") , and just at the very moment the filament is being rewind, my upgraded UM2+ sounds pretty much louder than my previous UM2. Actually the noise is definitely loud!
Do I must be concerned by this noise or is it common in any UM2+ ?.
When mounting the feeder I noticed it was pretty hard to put in place. I don't know, but perhaps have mounted it the wrong way ?.
It prints the parts nicely, so it seems the feeder is working.
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You are right, the x axis bar was not hitting the endstop. And even the y axis bar was beyond the limit and was touching the bed guide bars!.
If I am not wrong, the x bar should touch the Y endstop while the X endstop is touched directly by the Y bar plastic holder, at least this is the way it works in my machine.
Is that right?.
BTW, should not the bars have some physical limits to prevent these mistakes?.
Thanks ultiarjan for your help!.
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Ok. After installing 15.04.5, and updating new firmware, the display on UM2+ now tells it is going to perform some calibration tests, and asks to press Continue to go on.
Then the bed goes up and the head travels back to left back corner. Then a ***horrible noise**** comes as if the motors were trying to advance the head beyond the back of the printer!. I shat off the printer right away!! Scary! :-(
What may be going on here!?
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Upgraded my UM2 to UM2+.
Then I wanted to upgrade firmware to UM2+.
Go to Cura 15.02.1. Check for updates: No upgrades found!.
Then I select "Add new printer": There is no UM2+ in the list, just can see the UM2 and Extended.
I am able to update the firmware but the version I see is on the printer after update is: 15.02.1, Feb-2015.
Do I need to install other Cura version to upgrade firmware in my new UM2-to-UM2+ upgrade?
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I have already used nGen Black. I can get amazing detailed parts with this filament. It is pretty consistent at a large range of temperatures.
For some parts I dont want the high polished finish of nGen, and have used Tamiya TS80 "Flat Clear" to apply a matte finish, with success.
nGen is one of the best general purpose filaments I have tried lately,
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Neotko, no me fastidies. En una cnc cualquiera jamas se permite que el cabezal avance mas alla de los limites de la mesa. El control de limites esta ahi tanto si tienes control por firmware como si no, pongas el cabezal donde quieras. Este fallo no solo es de la UM sino que es tipico en otras. La humilde prusa ya tiene la opcion de poner finales de carrera en los extremos para evitar este problema. Se podria haber puesto en la UM que cuesta 2000 Euros.
Jairo, eso que dices de que no hace home es muy raro. Si usas el cable usb con algun programa de control, consigues hacer el home?.
Is there a UM Go + ?
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
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Is there a version '+' for the UM Go?