anon4321
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Posts posted by anon4321
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Hmmm, yeah of you look closely at the link, the ball clamping screw has a ball in the tip. It's not just a rounded tip. It has a ball bearing in it.
That might work. What you really need is a small thrust bearing and a hardened race....
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Hey Daid, with RT does the code need to be signed to run by a MS issued cert? Is that the issue that open source developers object to?
The problem is I think most OSes will need to go UEFI in the future for security reasons. I think even Win8 Pro will run in UEFI if the MB supports it.
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I agree with Sander. I use 70 and 220 and for things that have a small footprint and so a small surface to stick to the bed, use a brim. I usually reduce the bed temp to 55 after the first layer.
I recommend you try those but the other thing is you need to get the bed level and the right distance away.
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Ping Jason for the compatibility and cost to ship this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161143527489
Jason sells a heated bed for UM and has a good rep. The bed was shipped for free.
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You might get a quicker response from Jason through the ebay store contact link on the right of:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/3dprinting_hk
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Jason provides the relay and also has a recommended 24V PS for the kit.
However, I decided to spend lots of money and went with:
http://www.meanwell.com/search/GS280/GS280-spec.pdf (it's a monster, the UM1s PS looks like it's baby sitting next to it).
If you go with the MW PS, here is the connector you will need to use with the one installed on the PS (if you aren't going to cut it off):
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-amp/1-480703-0/plug-socket-housing-receptacle/dp/46F2068
and you will need four of these:
Just for yucks I went with a SSR and it works real well in PID mode after training:
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3950_0
Neither the PS or SSR even blink when heating the bed.
Yes, it's overkill but someone else water cools there stepper motors so this isn't soooo overkill.
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The problem is that the stuff they sell is good. The machines are good and so is their PLA.
It would be easy to say don't buy from them but they have nice products.
So I hope they straighten this out in general and hope you get your stuff soon.
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I'm a little confused about your request. Are you using W8 Pro? or RT? It's been some time since I've looked at this but I believe Win8 Pro is the x86/x64 version and RT is the ARM(?) version.
I believe Cura has two arch requirements. Python must be available and the slicer engine is compiled so requires an x86/x64 based proc. Python might be supported in RT but I doubt the slicer is available under RT.
So for RT, I think it would be more effort to get Cura to run. However, for Pro it might just require packaging for the app store.
Are you locked out from installing non-store apps by policy?
Biggest problem with packaging the Pro version for the app store would be the extra effort required each time an upgrade is available.
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I did finally get my order with Sander's help.
I hope that UM gets the order fulfillment process straightened out. I think it is really damaging UM's image/rep.
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It's easy to use. I think it is more for artistic or organic shapes than it is for mechanical stuff. For mechanical stuff, it's hard to figure out how to measure parts of the shape and/or set explicit sizes. DesignSpark Mechanical seems better at mechanical type CAD but it's not as intuitive.
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Hmmm, not sure what you mean. I just unzipped the Arduino IDE, open up the marlin pde, changing configuration.h and upload.
I guess I don't understand why you are modifying the standard libraries. In fact, I believe the arduino IDE zip comes with everything you need and should only use the libraries from within it.
I'm talking Windows 7 so that might be the difference.
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Sorry I can't answer you question directly. However, I can tell you that I used the Arduino IDE to rebuild the UM version of marlin (found on the UM open source page) without a problem. There is a pde you can open to build it in the IDE,
You might give that a try.
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Does anyone know what the height of the test square printed around the border of the build plate by the leveling wizard should be?
Does it use the Initial layer thickness value on the advanced tab?
Thanks in advance.
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Yes, I have a glass bed.
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I just received stuff to amp the bed up to 24V. Heats up to 70c as fast as the hotend heats up to 210.
The feedback I have for Jason would be:
- longer unspliced leads
- redesign the connector to reduce how much it sticks out. on the UM1, the connector might interact with the lower side panel
- some form of insulation on the bottom.
All in all though, it's a nice kit. I'm thinking about rewiring the connector with some nice long flexible wire, getting some cork board for insulation and running the leads towards the center to address to above.
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Another trick with github is you can drill into the directory structure, find the file you want, click it and you will see the contents on an HTML page (if it is a type that can be displayed). If you want to download it, right click the "Raw" button and the "Save as".
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I have the UM1 and I do the same. Even then, it seems to have difficulty starting the lines as if the tip is empty. Plus I keep burning myself on the hotend because it's well hot! ;-)
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My prints always start a little ragged due to failure to prime the hotend and/or because the hotend has some gunk stuck to it or picks up gunk because the lack of priming underextrudes the outlines printed first.
Anyone good with GCODE? Could you spin some up to implement this:
Note I'm not talking about the out of level compensation! However, that is pretty cool and I believe already in Marlin.
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gr5 has a point. It's hard for me to tell from the video if all axes are affected. If it appears they are then the SD card "system" would be suspect as it is common to all axes.
Although, I would also expect to see random negative Z movements or x/y movements completely scattered about the platform unless Marlin somehow constrains them.
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I don't think that the issue is with the SD card, reader or connection from the controller to the stepper board. If that were the case, you would see erratic movements on all axes. It's hard to see a condition in that chain that would only affect one axis.
I think something is causing erroneous "step" signals to the Z axis driver.
I suspect that current flowing through the wires crossing the card is inducing the step signal.
I would try moving the cables away from the stepper card as much as possible with focus on the wires to the Z stepper. I would also try a print without the fan on to see if the behavior changes. The fan is driven by a PWM signal and could be the source that is inducing the additional steps.
The only other guess is that you have a bad stepper board that has a driver on the Z axis that is too sensitive and is picking up noise that you can't eliminate.
Good luck.
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I've already open two tickets about my order which is for the fan pack, thermocouple and TC amp board.
The response to one ticket was
"
How unfortunate to hear you didn´t received your order yet.
I have send your request to our logistic department.
They will ship your order shortly.
"
That was more than 10 days ago. So I opened the second ticket yesterday and it is well past the end of the business day in the NL...
I've started ordering from other sources because of UMs customer support/order shipping problems.
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Is UM still doing business? Anyone fulfilling orders?
I ordered some parts nearly 3 weeks ago and while my card has been charged, nothing has shipped.
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Can anyone else speak to using this hotend for PLA? I was thinking of buying one but need to print both PLA and ABS.
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My issue is that I like the UM1. It performs well. Most of the people here are nice and want to help and Sander does his best to help people with orders.
So I want to support UM and buy from them.
However, I just can't wait weeks for parts and orders to be filled and have to send e-mail and tickets over and over again. It's particularly frustrating that they take the money upfront....
Complete heated bed kit for Ultimaker
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I plan to rewiring the connector or even remove it and solder directly to the board. Then I'm going to run the wiring along the platform to a center point near the back. Finally, I need to figure out some kind of low profile cable chain that will fold up under the bed so the wiring is kept out of the way.
The idea is twofold. Get the stress off of the connection point and get any tension caused by the wiring to be in the center of the platform as near to the lead screw as possible. This way the pull of the wiring isn't likely to distort the leveling of the bed or break the connection joint. The bed of the UM is fairly easy to "bend" out of level with the slightest amount of force. I've even felt it change just from the weight of the hex driver while trying to level the front portion which is furthest from the lead screw.
If you are going to wire or rewire, try to get something like this stuff for the power:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCGKB
and this for the temp sensor:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEATJ
It's super flexible.