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anon4321

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Posts posted by anon4321

    Cura - Now with improved quickprint profiles! (Up for testing)

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Just wanted to make a correction so no one is misled.

    This update is not the source of my problem. I have/had two:

    - First the tension on the UMO feeder was too low.

    - I use printed helical gears on my UMO feeder. The small gear worked loose leading to inaccurate retracts and I'm sure inaccurate recoveries.

    In general either of the two problems above is enough to really screw up a print. But together, I'm surprised it didn't explode.

    Still not convinced that my UMO can handle the high speeds in the new profiles but I'm sure my problems above have much more of an impact than the new speeds.

     

    Is anyone seeing underextrusion with the new settings when three is moderate retraction?

    For some reason the new speeds are too aggressive for my UMO and I get brief underextrusion after a retract and long move.

    I had to dial the speed way down.

     

    Initial hotend temperature set to 0

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    M190 sets the bed target temperature and waits until it reaches that temp.

    There are others that just set the temp but do not wait. M104 for extruder, M140 for the bed.

    So you can do things like (not sure about the G4 syntax):

    ;start heating the bed

    M140 S65.000000

    ; wait 60 secs to give the bed a headstart

    G4 S60

    ; Start heating the extruder

    M104 T0 S190

    ; wait for the bed to reach temp

    M190 S65.000000

    ; Wait for the extruder to reach temp

    M109 T0 S192.000000

     

    Help with steps/mm

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Pretty sure about the UM2. Even though the pitch is 2mm, there are four helices. Using the controller to move 8mm only results in one revolution. So it has an effective pitch of 8mm.

    Actually, looks like the correct term is lead. The UM2 screw has a lead of 8 and a pitch of two.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread

    So the formula is really:

    The values are X, Y, Z and E and the formula is using the Z value as an example:

     

    200.0*8/3

     

    200 - full steps per rev

    8 - number of microsteps

    3 - lead

     

    So use the value of the lead in calculating the steps per unit.

     

    Help with steps/mm

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hmmm, I'm a bit confused too.

    I believe 200.0*8/2 would be correct for a 2mm pitch.

    I think the confusion is because you mentioned like the UM2 which appears to have a 2mm pitch BUT it is a quad helix screw so the effective pitch is 8mm.

    But I'm not 100% sure so wait for someone else to confirm.

    Or you could just try 200.0*8/2 and have the platform move 2mm. The screw should rotate once.

    If I'm correct about the UM2, it would only rotate 1/4 of a turn.

     

    Is it as simple as changing the steps/mm from 200.0*8/3 (UM Original) to 200 (UM2)?

     

    Help with steps/mm

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    You need to change the third value in the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT define in Configuration.h

    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker

    The values are X, Y, Z and E and the formula is using the Z value as an example:

    200.0*8/3

    200 - full steps per rev

    8 - number of microsteps

    3 - pitch

     

    Ultigcode on UMO

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    I made and submitted updates to Marlin to save/restore retract and filament diameter settings. I also added a menu to the display to turn on/off volumetric mode and set filament sizes.

    Hopefully it will be in the next release of Marlin.

    https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/pull/1261

    https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/pull/1303

    PS: If you are a developer and speak a language other than English, please find and update these values in the language_XX.h file:

    #define MSG_VOLUMETRIC "Filament"

    #define MSG_VOLUMETRIC_ENABLED "E in mm3"

    #define MSG_FILAMENT_SIZE_EXTRUDER_0 "Fil. Dia. 1"

    #define MSG_FILAMENT_SIZE_EXTRUDER_1 "Fil. Dia. 2"

    #define MSG_FILAMENT_SIZE_EXTRUDER_2 "Fil. Dia. 3"

     

    final adjustment

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Clicking is the switch closing. Any more movement up does nothing. So the height needs to be exactly where it clicks.

    Not sure what you mean by the horizontal lever. The tab of the plywood cover on the bed pushes the top Z switch. If you mean you want the thing that pushes the level to be on the alu part of the bed, that would be OK. However, you shouldn't mount it to the glass portion as you using the thumbscrews for fine adjustment. If the thing that pushes the switch is also on the glass then you can't adjust the distance to the nozzle with the TSs because the distance from the glass to the switch will be fixed to be the length of the thing pushing on the switch. You would need to move the switch up and down which you can't do very precisely.

    If you feel the plywood isn't accurate enough, don't buy a new lever. PRINT ONE! The base aluminum platform is unheated so you should be able to print a PLA "stick" that sits on the platform and comes out the top and does the same thing as the plywood tab does...

     

    Fixing Pulley Innacuracy

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    You guys should just consider switching to GT2 belts and pulleys. Another member had good luck with pulleys from robotdigg.com. The pulleys are about $2 USD each or about $24USD for a full set.

    http://www.robotdigg.com/product/23/GT2-Pulley-20-Teeth-8mm-Bore

    http://www.robotdigg.com/product/9/GT2-Pulley-20-Teeth-5mm-Bore

    http://www.robotdigg.com/product/38/Closed-loop-GT2-Belt,-101-Teeth-202mm

    http://www.robotdigg.com/product/10/Open-Ended-6mm-Width-GT2-Belt

    NOTE, you would need new XY blocks for the open loop such as

    http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/12/twisterblocks.html

    ALSO NOTE: you need to print the GT2 form of the clamp.

    ALSO NOTE: THe commonly available closed loop GT2 belts won't work with the standard XY blocks as they tend to be slightly shorter.

    I got my pulleys from adafruit and belts from SDP/SI at 4x the price.

    My understanding is that the GT2 profile is better for bidirectional motion and have less backlash.

     

    • Like 1

    Teeth marks after feeder, normal? Also Feeder click.

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I assume that you have a UM2. I don't so take my advice with a grain of salt...

    I believe one problem people have with the UM2 feeder is the motor heats up and transfers the heat into the knurled driver. This heat softens the filament.

    So if I were you, find the minimum pressure and then add a little so you get good traction. Then remove the filament and let the printer cool (overnight) and then swap in new filament. If the first part of the filament has less sever indentations and the indentations get worse after printing for a while check how warm the knurled driver is. If it's warm, you can try reducing the motor's current to the point you miss steps (be sure to check retraction) and then increase it slightly. The stepper should run cooler and so should the driver and filament.

     

    • Like 1

    ABS rookie woes... ABS "JUICE"... will the glass shatter?!

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I think that the glass on an UM2 is quality stuff. It shouldn't shatter. But take precautions.

    There is a reason the build area isn't enclosed. A certain closed source 3D printer which is "MAKERing with roBOTs" company has a patent (actually I think it's the parent company) on an enclosed chamber. It won't upset UM if you do it. However, it may cause the steppers to run hotter. It's better to convert to direct drive so that the steppers are out side the chamber.

    When they say fans off, they mean the material cooling fan NOT the fan that cools the upper part of the nozzle.

    Toasty bed = yes.

     

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