solid-print-3d
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Posts posted by solid-print-3d
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What I would like to know is where is the dual extruder?
+1
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Slightly taller side panels, and a longer Z screw. Can't be that much more to produce. Wonder how much more they'll charge?
Oh never mind, I see that it's $530 more.
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I had a lot of luck just using regular clear PLA, a drilled out old nozzle (1mm micro bit from harbor freight), .7mm layer height (70% of nozzle width). So, 1mm nozzle, .7mm layer height, 25mm/s print speed
Tried same setup in T-Glase as well. T-glase wasn't as clear in my case as the clear PLA. Keep in mind I was using 2 perimeters (2mm wall thickness).
Will be trying the Clear ABS and acetone vapor next.
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I have much better luck printing ABS at high speeds. I can even print first layers at 150mm/s if need be. ABS just seems to be more creamy. I use IC3D and Ultibots ABS which prints at 235 C. Can't speak to the UM brand of ABS.
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I'm just not comfortable sticking steel needles up a soft brass precision orifice.
I've ruined plasma tips, welding tips and other copper and brass orifices sticking steel objects in them... including my first UM2 hotend. That hotend is now a .5mm hotend due to rubbing the hole out larger with a needle.
It's probably just me... I'd rather torch the hotend and clean the carbon out.
If the hotend's weren't so expensive, I'd probably use needles again becasue it's a lot faster
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To tell you the truth, I'm having more problems with my PLA printer (I only print with PLA in one printer, ABS in the other)
so to answer your question, I'm using PLA temps... Around 205~212 C . Using USA Natureworks stuff.
Have to say.... I assumed my ABS printer would fail first due to the higher print temps, but no.... The ABS machine just keeps going and going.
again,....weird....
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Due to the orientation of the print, it's actually very sturdy... Had it been printed in the Z direction, yes, I would have been worried
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I have no idea why we still use Imperial. I design in metric, which gets confusing at times becasue I often have to use imperial fasteners, so drawings look funny to me, but I guess that's how it is.... Work on a Ford truck and some bolts will be 1/2" while others 12mm...
On another note, I just had to do 12 cold pulls to get one of the printers going again... I'd do 2 or 3, think everything's fine, go to print, JAM. Do another couple of cold pulls, some more black crap comes out...
Was very confusing becasue after the first 3, it pulled out clean... Then it would jam and I'd find some more garbage, then it would pull clean, then jam again.
Weird... printing fine now, but I just went through another 2 insulators...AGAIN. Always something
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Where's a good source for some of these "older slicers"? I'd like to try them for some ABS prints
THANKS
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Yes, it can happen with ABS as well. While I had a large flat Black ABS print cooling, I heard a VERY loud pop. Looked over and it seemed fine... I contributed it to contraction noises as the ABS cools and broke parts of itself free from the glass. About 20 minutes later I go to remove the part and the bottom of the part had a thin sheet of glass stuck to it! Now I know what that loud pop was
As far as printing with T-Glase, I tend to put down a pretty heavy layer of hairspray (Aqua Net) with a paper towel. My thinking is that the thicker layer creates a little "cushion", hopefully preventing glass breakage... Who knows... works fine so far.
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True, True
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I'm really excited about Proto-Pasta's Magnetic filament coming out in February I believe. Unfortunately it's only going to be in 1.75mm at first....
I'd love to try the brassfill though
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I've distorted threads while tapping in PLA simply from the heat that the tap creates, deforming the PLA. I find it helpful to tap under running water (provided I can hand tap them).
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Yes, considering all I had to do was a quick scan and literally 30 minutes later had a working key.
I presume I could use the same technique with most standard keys.
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Printed an emergency house key to carry in my wallet.
yes.. it works
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make sure you don't have a skirt configured in expert settings. Set line count to 0.
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No talk about the UM2's dual head development for over a month now!!?
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I thought the new um2 firmware cuts the power to the extruder motor when pausing the print, allowing you to pull out the filament and feed new in, regardless of feeder type?
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You just have some sort of setting wrong... the ABS prints should come out near-identical, on simple shapes like that, to PLA
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Just reached the 4800 Meter mark on my UM2's. That's 3 MILES of filament! Or, I guess, 4.8 Kilometers for you metric wierdo's
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I have the same problem. My new um2 is so much darker than my old one. It looks funny really cuz it looks like it's not even on.
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I would have to politely disagree with Jonny. I have MUCH more success printing with ABS vs. PLA. It's just more forgiving, easier to post process, prints faster and thicker, and the parts are generally better for what I do (prototyping).
ABS does shrink, but a good design (model) will compensate for shrinkage.
I can say this, when I set a long ABS print up, I just print and forget. When I'm printing with PLA, I tend to check in on the print every hour or so.
Don't get me wrong, some of the most detailed prints I've produced so far have been with PLA, but for virtually every other category, ABS is a go-to material for me.
Printing with PLA - no luck
in Coffee corner
Posted
You might want to tear the head apart and look at the insulator. I find that if the machine will print ABS fine but fails with PLA, it's usually becasue the insulator is worn. ABS seems to be a lot more forgiving with a worn insulator than PLA.
This is assuming it is absolutely not a blockage problem.