ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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No need. All the older versions up to 15.xx can run next to each other.
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You can... but there are no machine settings in gui jet, think/hope it's on the developers list... for now you need to alter a .Json machine file.... has been described here a few time... just Google...
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When you make a change f.e. put in a different nozzle, you always have to do the bed leveling procedure and the machine knows the correct hight again...
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I think the leaking is because there was not enough pressure on the ptfe. This can be easily spotted. When you have the + models or replaced the spring in the hot end with a tube on the older UM2 models the hot end isolator (the metal part with holes all around) should not be too loose. Rotate it until it's pretty tight.
@sandervg think we still need a proper instruction from um on how to (re)assemble the hot end with the correct amount of pressure...
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FYI, the design files of the + models , including .step, are available on Github.
Thank's Ultimaker! this is what i like about you <3
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus
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Ha... a year of stock !!!! You have seriously low trust in ultimaker supply chain
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Seems you re use the old feeder motor. In this case you need to double the e-steps. The easiest way is to use the tinker gnome firmware. Just Google github+tinkergnome and download the correct version from the release page.
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yeahhh sure... that's real blood....With the magazine that looks like a crime photo
!Nahh Was just reading a newspaper when I made that photo.....
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The shinyness is very clear....
Carl. Thanks for sending me a replacement.
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My gut feeling says a good test piece should have mid air angels at various angels AND a horizontal area..... should be only a few minutes to draw....
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https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spring-replacement
This is the original design...
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Mine comes from the + upgrade kit... but I guess you can buy it as a spare part from any um reseller.... but it's just as easy to print one... multiple designs on youmagine. Its not the original design but I believe gr5 made one with a hole in front to see the fillament.
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Just installed the new 3Dsolex block, and obviously had to try the 2mm (!!) nozzle first....
Realize that with 2mm and 0.5 layer hight .... your volumetric speed gets insane very fast....
Installed it on a machine with the 2+ upgrade kit, so I guess this only has the 25 Watt heater (can anybody confirm?) it could not cope.... speed 22mm3/s Temp set 240c, Temp reached (and stable) 233c.
Will try the smaller nozzles first I guess... but will have to upgrade... just to much fun to play with the 2mm.
edit: continue to play a bit... with the fans down to 65% it's reaching the 240c ... will try speeding up and lowering the temp a bit (PLA)...
edit2, the temperature will not be the problem.... you really need to slow down as the huge layers don't get time to cool enough otherwise.... this will need a lot more tweaking/playing around to get some result...
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let's just say with the options currently (or soon.... foehnsturm setup) available I would not invest in a solution without a lift system or separate heads...
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I see I never reported the actual settings I use, here they are;
// Ultimaker2 with E3Dv6 + Pt100 + 40Watt heater
Kp 24.57
Ki 1.83
Kd 82.41
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the 80, 80, 200 is correct, if you calibrated with the wrong e steps you probably have corrected for underextrusion, so using the same settings will cause overextrusion. say for example you corrected the flow to 140% to compensate for the wrong e step than you should use 100% flow again.
It's advised to print from SD card, not via USB, it's simply more stable. Not sure what you mean by a reset, it's probably just the printer connecting to the PC (the lights go of for a sec.), you just should not do it during a print.
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do it only out doors and with fan blowing fumes away from you.
or just get yourself some decent protection... with the correct filter type... will cost less than a spool of filament...
get it at a hardware-store that sells to professionals (in the Netherlands almost always a better and cheaper option than the DIY stores like praxis & gamma)
-- the white filters are only for dust / woodworking --
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Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) is pretty standard in serverrooms, but I guess not many people use them on a printer... they are also pretty expensive if you want any decent backup time., so it's probably only useful in an area where you often have short power glitches.
and don't forget these things are not only expensive to buy... but you need to replace the battery after x amount of time ....
http://www.apc.com/shop/uk/en/categories/power/uninterruptible-power-supply-ups-/_/N-13quq79
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With or without the issue I would always advice to use this thing during a change.... allows you to easy pull out filament. Also it happens sometimes that there's a string with blobs of plastic at the end of the filament that gets stuck in the feeder otherwise...
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2
with regard to the length issue, did you check if your e-steps are off?
(should not be the case if you had the original 2+ firmware before you used the tinker firmware but won't hurt to check)
check in tinker firmware:
Advanced/preferences/motion settings/axis steps per mm
E should be 369 if you have a standard + machine.
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Nice... a rockinghouse
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Yep... like the drag and drop on thingiverse. ... mentioned this one a few times before...
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Using reprap gcode on UM2 will not impact your bed leveling......
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And to be complete the download link.
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@sandervg any news on an instruction to properly mount the head with the correct pressure? last thing I remember is you had worries on the dimensional accuracy of a 3d printed measuring tool, but maybe if you provide it with the correct dimensions, people can check it before use?
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!
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted · Edited by Guest
life was just so much easier with square robots